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Discussion Starter · #243 · (Edited)
Engine mounts.
Started out with a few odd shapes cut from 6mm aluminium plate:



And after welding:





Imagine these the other way up, bolted to the engine at 45 degrees.
The square cuts will rest on the inside of the chassis members, and will be bolted to 'L' shaped brackets welded to the inside of the chassis members.

And just as a taster of body mods, here's the (unfinished) inner sill/step panels, expertly made from old wiring conduit saved from a skip:



 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Back in the thread you'll find my amazing boot-sale Momo steering wheel (a whole $5!)



In the early build, someone gave me this badge. I can't remember who, and I don't know what it's from, but it's nice,



So I turned up this aluminium boss, and threaded a couple of studs into it that pass through the wheel and hub to secure it properly:



Which leaves it looking like this:



Lovely!
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
I bought these lights from a swapmeet for $8 the pair, but I was not convinced that they were right for the car until I accidentally propped them in an existing hole and the realisation of my subconscious genius dawned.



So I made up these tubes to partially french them in:



They'll be cut at an angle (thinner at the top) so the lens is partially exposed, but you get the idea.

 

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are you going to cover/colour red the clear section of the light lenses so they don't shine white out of the frenching buckets at the bottom? think that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
are you going to cover/colour red the clear section of the light lenses so they don't shine white out of the frenching buckets at the bottom? think that makes sense.
There are a couple of ideas along those lines rattling around in my head, one of which involves an additional bulb, horizontal splitter and orange lens, so when the indicators are on they shine red at the back, but reflect orange in the bucket.
 

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There are a couple of ideas along those lines rattling around in my head, one of which involves an additional bulb, horizontal splitter and orange lens, so when the indicators are on they shine red at the back, but reflect orange in the bucket.
sounds a good plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 · (Edited)
Just picked these up for $40:





They're from a Honda Prelude. Nicely narrow (less than 18" at the frame) and absolutely mint!

Which gave me the impetus to start tackling the bodywork. The sill step panels are now tack-welded into place (no pics - sorry!) which will allow me to position the body on the chassis (when I've got some extra muscles).
Then, moving around the back I was struck with a dilemma. I want a bootlid in the car, and was going to make up a smooth, flat one (like Prefects have) until my petrol-head daughter insisted that I keep the 'spare wheel' moulding on the back.
So starting with this - the place the spare wheel mounted:



I carefully cut around the perimeter which left me with a hole:



And if i then invert the panel I've just cut out, I end up with a very slick, 1938 made bootlid which looks as it should:



I'll cut it along the bottom swage and put hinges at that level, remove the reinforcement strut to smooth it out, and there will be a bonnet-style spring catch hidden beneath the top of the curve.

Stay tuned for more!
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 · (Edited)
I was really unhappy with the look of the front of the engine, particularly the ugly water hoses & thermostat housing;



So pulled it all out and started making a replacement dual top-hose system (like the old flatheads had).
Started with the 'head' end and made these 'o' ring bosses. These have water restrictions machined in them which are equivalent to the single hole restriction in the original thermostat:





Then turned up a couple of water-neck hose barbs and welded them at a 45 degree(ish) angle:





The second set of necks in the last picture will be welded to the rad top tank.







Getting there.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Just collected this:



One piece flip front. At some stage in it's past someone has bonded in an original steel grille and steel side-vents. I'll remove these and re-glass the holes.
I'm aiming for the smooth front as on the Blair's car.
I got it for a straight swap for the original tins, and both I and the swap-ee are more than happy.
 

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i did the same with my anglia, bought a used flip front as i was going to alter it anyway. keep the updates coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
Back with the bootlid.
I made up this hinge panel. Panel is 2mm steel, and the actual hinge brackets are in 3mm:





Which is then (tack) welded into the wheelwell:



Bearing in mind that this is now the INSIDE of the boot. The hinge panel and lower part of the 'wheel' will be welded back into the body, and the top cut carefully along the hinge panel and made into the hinged lid panel.

 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Hinge time.
I seem to have forgotten the pictures which show the hinge top mounts, but here are the start of the hinges.
These are made from 3/8" steel tube, the pivot end is 1"cds with a 6061 alloy bush pressed in.



I made them, then realised that although they would work fine it's only a matter of time before someone uses the open boot as a seat, so reinforcements were called for:



These were welded in, and then the top hinge fixing bracket welded to the assembly:





Here's the finished hinges in place:



All I have to do now is cut the outer skin between the two horizontal brackets and I have a hinged boot!
(There's still plenty to do before it's finished though).
 
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