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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
Looking at the front suspension in place, it looks like there is minimum caster, and that could go to '0' or even into +ve caster with suspension movement, so I decided to make caster blocks. This should please Mygasser as they will also raise the front end slightly.
Started of with an aluminium block. This was one of a pair of 'home-made' lowering blocks bought from a swap meet for $5NZ.



This was marked out and cut in two using cutting disc and hacksaw.



Then (as I have no mill) these were precariously clamped into a 3-jaw lathe chuck at the correct angle and smoothed off



Final pieces were the locator lugs. Made by threading a couple of nuts onto old button-head setscrews and lathing/cutting down to suit:



These were then loctited into the blocks:





They look pretty steep, but the angle is just on 6 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #364 ·
Racing Saturday, so only had a few hours on Sunday to be with the one I love......
Fitted the castor blocks and took 1 leaf from each spring



Then fitted up the hubs so I can work out lengths of the steering rods





You have to hang a wheel on at this stage don't you? This is about where they'll sit in relation to the arch



Happy bunny again :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #367 ·
Rear anti-roll bar.
The roll-bar itself is thick-wall moly tube in 20mm diamaeter.
Links are made from thin-wall moly tube. Arms are 3mm steel.
The roll-bar links just have turned-down full-nuts welded in the ends to give female threads for the rosejoints.



It will sit in the car something like this, with the block mounts welded to the underside of the rear of the chassis





The mounts themselves are nylon (same as Merlin Motorsport in the UK supply, but if anyone in NZ wants any I've got boxes of them...)
The arms are welded to tubes which in turn are welded to the bar. This gives a 'lip' which prevents the bar sliding side to side





I have to say I'm actually very happy with the way this has turned out. It looks almost professional!
 

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Discussion Starter · #372 ·
yup , i was just thinking "way too much spare room in the engine bay,needs something to fill it all in " :tup:

big a/r on those turbines ,will they spool ?
I'm going to keep the engine standard CR, so it won't need much of a 'huff' to make some steam!
I'm going to suck it and see (blow it and see?). I can always change stuff once it's running.

Medusa's looking good though chap!
 

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Rear anti-roll bar.
The roll-bar itself is thick-wall moly tube in 20mm diamaeter.
Links are made from thin-wall moly tube. Arms are 3mm steel.
The roll-bar links just have turned-down full-nuts welded in the ends to give female threads for the rosejoints.



It will sit in the car something like this, with the block mounts welded to the underside of the rear of the chassis





The mounts themselves are nylon (same as Merlin Motorsport in the UK supply, but if anyone in NZ wants any I've got boxes of them...)
The arms are welded to tubes which in turn are welded to the bar. This gives a 'lip' which prevents the bar sliding side to side





I have to say I'm actually very happy with the way this has turned out. It looks almost professional!
Lovely design and execution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
Now I have two big angry snails, I thought I'd better sort some method of getting the oil in and out.
Found two pieces of aluminium in the scrap which I could just squeeze the 4 flanges I need out of:



These were marked out and drilled for bolts & ports, and then cut into a pleasing flangy shape:





Then welded on -12AN males to the drain flanges, and tapped the feed flanges 1/8" NPT (to allow a selection of sizes for feed hoses):





The AN weld-ons are made from scrap fittings, so total cost is about nil. They will ultimately be polished.
 

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Be looking like you may have some hydraulic background there with the clamps and nipples. Do the clamps have a smooth inner surface? The ones we sell are triple ribbed to grip the hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #378 ·
Be looking like you may have some hydraulic background there with the clamps and nipples. Do the clamps have a smooth inner surface? The ones we sell are triple ribbed to grip the hose.
The flanges both have male AN fittings. The large -12AN fittings will have stainless braided (rubber) hose and fittings screwed to them, and the oil feed will be in PTFE braided hose.

Part of my work at the moment is designing and fitting plumbing systems (oil, fuel, PAS, brakes) to racing cars, so I have a bit of a grasp of how it works ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #380 ·
Front shock mounts are now in place (woop woop!).
Top mounts are made from 3mm steel, suitably drilled and shaped.
Axle mounts are the originals that came with the axle, but repositioned and rewelded.
Shock absorbers are Mini (BL).





Also in the pics you'll see the embryonic start of the turbo exhaust manifolds.
 
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