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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
Easter Monday - the day of the angry snails.....
After getting the first snail in it's proper place, Easter Monday saw me trying to get the other one in the same relative position.
Attempt one was close, but not 100% aesthetically pleasing:



Attempt two was spot-on though. The second turbo is angled in and up at exactly the same angle, and is in the same position relative to the front of the engine:







Amongst other things not photo-worthy, the front engine mount brackets are now fully welded to the chassis, the top dashboard tabs are in place, and I even squeezed enough time (though unfortunately not quite enough resin) to do a bit more to the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
The overhead switch panel/console has been made for some time, but I'd never really sorted a way to mount it. I decided to make this frame up. It's made from 3/8" mild steel tube and had four tapped mount holes at the end of the vertical and horizontal tubes.





At the front of the panel there are an additional pair of threaded mount tabs.



At the threaded ends of each tube there are 1/2" steel bosses welded outside the tubes. These are countersunk so that the mount screws will sit flush with the panel.





Welded into the car:



To remove it you remove the six mount screws, pull the panel backwards then drop the right-hand side first. It then drops straight out!
Drivers eye view:



And view from the side showing how it fits with the rollcage tubes:



Another small job completed. Now on to the bodywork.... :shake:
 

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Discussion Starter · #411 ·
It was ANZAC day here in New Zealand yesterday which is a public holiday. Wifey was working so what better time to wade into another project on the car.
The fibreglass front is quite old and has had a few modifications (both intentional and non-intentional) over the years. I blocked the grille and side-panel holes after the grille and vents were removed.



I don't like flip-fronts so decided to make it a two-piece removable front. Out with the grinder and cut more-or-less along the panel lines of the original hood:



This is the first time that the front bodywork has been mounted accurately in place, and it's nice to see the fit. By this time I'd already cut the front grille opening to the approximate size and shape it will end up.



The turbos sit under the arches, and have a bit more room around them than I'd estimated:



And there's loads of room (but a rubbish photo!) under the hood:



Now this is in place I can get on with mounting the radiator and oil cooler, and sort the fixings for the panelwork.
A cheeky glimpse under the front skirt:



About the right stance :)



You know your engine is just big enough when.........

 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
Now that I have the mounts for the overhead panel in place it's about time I sorted where the switches go:



Voila! Switches on the left for all the 'legal' stuff (lights, wipers, washers, horn) and on the right for all of the important stuff (Ignition, start, pump1, pump2, fan), and a handy 'ford' badge in case you forget what you're driving.



Underneath are LED's to show you what's on, along with a voltmeter to show you why it won't crank ( :D )



This view shows the shape of the fascia panel. This will probably be polished with the 'box' in body colour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #416 ·
Added a fuse box to the overhead panel.







This is recessed so that I won't knock them out every time I get in the car, but still easily accessible to the driver.
Just for the important stuff. The mundane circuits will have fuses in the glove box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #417 ·
I fitted this quick-release hub to the steering wheel some time ago. I didn't really like it but I hoped it would grow on me. It didn't. It was hideous. It hit me like a carbuncle in my eye every time I looked at it. It could only have been less attractive if Teresa May had been sitting on it. You get the picture....


So I cut it up, and made this little extension from the QR splines:

This is internally threaded the same thread as the column, then clearance-bored for the splines, then taper-bored to suit the column taper. This is wound on, then a grubscrew wound into the bottom threaded hole to lock it in place.

Over the top of that is this spunky column shroud. It's the same OD as the QR hub, and is held in place by the SS cap-head which also serves to show 'straight ahead' on the column (just in case I ever have to put the wheel on in the dark).







The wheel has also sprouted a small switch panel for the line-lock/roll-control:





All looks 1,000,000% better than the bolt-on effort.
What's next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #420 ·
Oil cooler mount.



Take the cooler off and you find this. You have to imagine that the black tube is the front chassis tube and the box section brackets are welded to it.



The front, smaller diameter tube will be fixed to the front bodywork. the large hook locates over the chassis tube and locks the front end in place.



To remove the front body, tilt it forwards:



Then slide it forwards:



It can then be lifted clear.



The hooks are in 3mm steel, the brackets are fabricated 40mm x 20mm box in 3mm steel with an extra 3mm reinforcement in the 'slider' hole.



Now to weld it on in the right place.......:beuj:
 
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