[legendlives]

Manifold part one:
It has always been my intention to run a carb on the engine, either N/A or (as it will be now) Blow-through, so it's about time I sorted a manifold out.
Starting with the original injection manifold (which looked like this once the plenum box was unbolted),

I gave it to a friend of mine who has a mill, and after a few days he returned with this:

Which I then proceeded to hack more lumps off:

A visit to another friend with an industrial guillotine and bender produced this panel:

Which I then got excited about and decided to fit curved ends to. These were cut from alloy tube and seam welded in and out:

To mount the carb I found this spacer cheap, which I then cut about a bit:

As it happens I cut it about even more before welding it on, but here it is rested in place on the smoothed plenum:

After welding on the carb plate I thought I'd better trial fit it before getting all weldy with it.

 

[mylesdw]

Will the large plenum volume affect the performance? I had always read that you needed to keep gas velocities high and all that but is it different for a supercharged set-up? Just interested.

 

[legendlives]

If you look at the actual plenum volume it's actually no more than a conventional tunnel-ram.
As it will be forced induction the plenum will be under pressure when it is making power so volume and (to a certain extent) flow are largely irrelevant.
At least, that's what I've been telling it

 

[legendlives]

Manifold part 2.
The only bit of the manifold I wasn't particularly happy with was these recesses that sit under the original runners:

My concern was that, using a carb fuel could/would pool at the lowest point, so taking my sharpest drill I gouged some holes in the base and welded in these tubes:

That terminate in adapters welded into the original injector bosses:

Once that was all done it was just a case of a quick clean-up and seam-welding the plenum in place:

I quite like the 2000's meets 1960's meets steam-punk look. That Medusa project has obviously had a profound effect on me......

 

[mygasser]

very nice :tup: shame you didn't have 2 smaller blow thru carbs to sit on the plenum, one for each turbo to blow into

 

[legendlives]

very nice :tup: shame you didn't have 2 smaller blow thru carbs to sit on the plenum, one for each turbo to blow into

Don't start.......

 

[Taxirod]

Some superb work going on there. Love it.

 

[mygasser]

Don't start.......

i was only saying, it'd look reeeeeally cool :lol:

 

[steve1275]

:tup:

 

[ivanhoew]

may be a slight fuel drop out LL, due to low rpm low air velocity ,but hey it might give it that rumpety rumpety 60's race cam sound ....what's not to like !

 

[legendlives]

 

[legendlives]

I've been asked to take the car to the CRC Speedshow here in Auckland on the weekend of the 22nd/23rd July, so i thought I'd better tart the old girl up a bit and bolt on a few bits. They'll all have to come off again but it's nice to know they fit!

Also radiused the rear arches and fitted them. Just the right amount of tyre I think.

and made up the first of the front end brackets. These bolt to the sexy hinge and oil cooler mount (which is now welded in place).

 

[legendlives]

Distributor drive. Part 1

As I'm going all old-school with the fuel delivery and ignition of the quad-cam I thought it was time to sort a distributor.
The accepted method when doing this with these engines is to drive the disi from the RH exhaust cam. Unfortunately, as the cam covers already protrude slightly from the bonnet this would mean a huge bulge (or exposed disi) out of the bonnet & wing.
The only other opition I could think of was belt drive. Bear with me, this will be a bit long-winded......

I found this belt drive set-up. It's an engine balance drive from a Mitsubishi and has the correct 2:1 drive ratio:

Then made a hub that bolts to the front crank pulley. This has to come a fair way forward to clear water pump:

That was the easy bit.
For the larger pulley I found these bearings which came from a Toyota cam-belt idler and turned up an alloy housing:

Then made up this bracket which attaches to two unused bosses (remnants of the original serpentine belt drive) and one cover bolt that's still used:

Bolt the bosses in place:

And attach the bracket with belt:

All fits quite well. The last pic also shows the distributor body mount sitting behind the pulley.

Next episode should be the disi itself, as I've elected to make my own :shake:

 

[ivanhoew]

blimey ,nice dizzy work :tup:

 

[steve1275]

:shake::tup:

 

[Itchy]

Excellent work!

Just thinking, but those pulleys have to be dead on size otherwise any error in the 2:1 ratio will compound that error, so the more turns covered, the further the dizzy will be out of position.

 

[mylesdw]

I don't think that can happen with a toothed belt, they can't drift over time; if the ratio between the teeth is 2:1 then that's it.

 

[HALLnRODZ]

Looking forward to the next installment!

You haven't left much room for those slicks to grow when your frying them!!

 

[Ian34]

Clever stuff, that.

 

[legendlives]

Excellent work!

Just thinking, but those pulleys have to be dead on size otherwise any error in the 2:1 ratio will compound that error, so the more turns covered, the further the dizzy will be out of position.

They are 2:1. Teeth pitch and size is identical between the two pulleys as they came from the same drive system. Can't see why I'd get drift????

I don't think that can happen with a toothed belt, they can't drift over time; if the ratio between the teeth is 2:1 then that's it.

Yeah. What he said.

Looking forward to the next installment!

You haven't left much room for those slicks to grow when your frying them!!

:tup: