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Discussion Starter · #684 ·
There's also a new switch panel. Hole cut in trans-tunnel:



and a threaded plate added under the rim of the hole so that this:



Can be bolted down.
The three top holes will be for window switches and boost controller, the lower two for main kill-switch and fire extinguisher pull.
 

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Great to see pictures working again on this site! I think I am pretty sure you will weld and not bolt, one question - how are you going to fix the tubs to the outer skin? speaking to Chop Top on here who said - he wished he hadn't welded tubs to the outer skin, as when the car was lifted it distorted the outer skin and a flexible joint would be a better choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #688 ·
Great to see pictures working again on this site! I think I am pretty sure you will weld and not bolt, one question - how are you going to fix the tubs to the outer skin? speaking to Chop Top on here who said - he wished he hadn't welded tubs to the outer skin, as when the car was lifted it distorted the outer skin and a flexible joint would be a better choice.
They will fit under a flange on the inner wheelarch and will either be bonded or riveted. Can't weld it as the metals are dissimilar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #689 · (Edited)
The other thing(s) to happen whilst RNS was down is these:



There are two of them, and they are awesome!
Weighing up the cost of overhauling my original secondhand (mismatched) turbos vs selling them on and buying these I reckon I'm only about $100 down on the deal.
Before anyone asks/comments, yes they are Chinese, but I did do a whole lot of research before settling on buying them. They are good for 600bhp each at 15psi. The manufacturers do not recommend sustained high boost levels (above 20psi) but as I don't plan on running more than 15psi happy days! The Yanks are getting some phenominal figures from boosted mod quad cams so it'll be interesting what my engine does. Hopefully it will be better than the original 8hp sidevalve......
 

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Discussion Starter · #691 ·
The other thing that happened in 'RNS Downtime' - I played with the carbs a bit.
These started as 650VS, but as they are going to be blow-through they needed modifying for both turbo and to get rid of the vacuum secondary and making them M/S.

Blow-through mods are all documented many times on line:
Mill off choke horn:


Open up power valve drillings:



Block vacuum ports etc:


Becomes:



Becomes:

I'll use these to operate the BOV's, Wastegates and also feed the boost gauge.

As the Holleys I have use secondary metering plates which are non-adjustable, I filled the original jet holes and drilled/tapped to use standard Holley main jets:





Making the base-plates into mechanical secondary was easy.
Make these little doo-hickeys:



And with use of a screw and a small weld:



So when you open the throttles it all happens at once:



Obviously there was then lots of micro-cleaning and polishing, followed by a splash of paint:





Which I'm assured by the manufacturer is 'resistant to fuel and chemicals'. We'll see!
 

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Discussion Starter · #695 ·
Coming off the rails....

Drip rails that is.
They didn't look too bad, but were definitely showing signs of corrosion.



So I took the drip-rails off, and revealed this:





Left hand side was corroded, holed and about as thick as lace. Right-hand side repair had been attempted by seam welding/brazing the rail to the roof and then filling the wobbly mess.

So with my trusty angle grinder I removed the nasty bits, then bent and shaped infill panels (each side has three separate panels), then seam welded them in place and smoothed off the repairs. Here's what they ended up looking like:





It would have been so much easier just to weld in smooth/flush panels, but I always think that Pop's with drip rail delete always look a bit 'used bar of soap'ey. No offence to anyone who's done that mod, it's just my preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #698 ·
Decided to weld the tubs. Fortunately no distortion!



Had to add these small 'pockets' in the front of the tubs. Yes, the seats really are that far back!







They don't intrude into the arch that far, and there's still plenty of tyre clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #699 ·
Upcylcling 3.

Section of old shipping crate:



'U' section removed:



Flattened and formed:



And will soon be in a full-time role as the panel between the wheeltubs and the inner arches. The vertical return will support the inner quarter panels.

 

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Discussion Starter · #700 ·
The bits you don't see:
Where the tub/floor 'L' sections were bent around the chassis, the flange was cut to allow the flat to bend nicely.
The resulting gaps were ugly, so I welded in small panels to fill the gaps



These flanges will be visible under the wheel arch, so if I ever take the wheels off they will be (kind of) exposed.
Now they look pretty, and for that reason it was worth every second!

 
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