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Discussion Starter · #1,364 ·
All of the engine wiring, temperature capillary and (ultimately) boost and oil pressure lines will pass through this -16 AN hose where they will seemingly disappear under the alternator and intake manifold.
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It seems a bit overkill, but I want to try and hide the 'untidy' bits that make the car work. Inevitably not all of it can remain totally hidden but at least I've avoided that classic bunch of ugly hose and wire poked through a rubber grommet.

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And there's still plenty of room under the manifold:

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Discussion Starter · #1,378 ·
"Whiteout!" So sang 60's singing surfing hipsters The Beach Boys. Well I think that's what they sang.
Anyhoo..... Exhaust manifolds and turbo exhaust housings now coated in a few layers of VHT.
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Did a lot of other things over the long weekend here in NZ, a lot of it not deserving of a photo, but I'm proud of the oil pressure feed so here it is.
-6AN line comes off the main oil plate and runs along the side of the engine, around the LH head:
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(It will be clipped up away from the exhaust heat). Goes to this little unit in the valley where it splits into two -4AN feeds for the turbos and a -3AN feed for the oil pressure gauge:

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Fitted the coil too, but that's not clever or impressive.

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Discussion Starter · #1,379 ·
"It will be clipped up away from the exhaust heat..."
Sounds so simple. I managed to make it complicated enough though!
There are a few unused M10 tapped holes on the side of the block, one of which is in exactly the right place. Problem is that the nice Stainless Steel 'P' clip only has a 6mm hole in it. No worries!

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So now it's all clipped up nicely. Only took a couple of hours!

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Discussion Starter · #1,384 ·
Pull up a seat, dear reader, for this will take a while......
Some years ago I decided that it would be a good idea to make my own distributor to fit an MSD cap and rotor that I'd bought cheap (no surprises so far then....). The Boss engine has no provision to fit a distributor, and the available kits put the disi in front of the cam covers which may be fine in a full-size car, but in my little 7Y it would poke it out half-way across the front wing. So I opted for a belt-drive set-up driven from the front damper and utilising a Mitsubishi balance-shaft belt and pulleys. The distributor was made out of an old Chevy points distributor, the neck of an old fire extinguisher, and a couple of bits of 3mm ally plate:
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Looked OK, but at this point in (I'd guess) 2020 it still had a points cam, and still had the Chevy bronze shaft bearing.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago and as the car is getting closer to running I thought revisiting the disi was prudent.

First off I junked the bronze bearing. The Chevy disi was never designed for side-loads, so I bored the casing and fitted 2 roller bearings:

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Then, having bought a Bosch magnetic V8 disi (cheap.....Of course. More on this later....) I raped it for the necessary parts.

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I made up a mandrel to hold the magnet straight whilst I drilled & tapped the securing holes.:

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Then modified the shaft and mechanical advance to take the Bosch trigger wheel:

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It did, however, add around 9mm to the height of the shaft. This was taken up by a nylon spacer which is pegged to the case by 4 threaded 'top-hat' spuds that also take the cap screws.

Then back on to the drive side of things. The distributor pulley is a cast iron thing that I originally welded the bearing spigot to, but was very unhappy with the weld so turned that out and made up an aluminium hub that the pulley now bolts to, has the correct internal diameter for the distributor shaft, and has a thick enough wall thickness to take 2 x M6 grub screws to secure the shaft in place (kind of important in a distributor drive!)

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I mounted the control module to the disi mount and tried to hide the wiring behind it.
Now refinished in crackle-black:

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And the outcome is - It doesn't work! The trigger does it's stuff but no sparks. I suspect the Bosckh disi was cheap because the module is FUBAR'd. No worries, new module on its way!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,389 ·
gm hei modules areeasy to wire and peanuts to buy new from china. i bought 2 uprated modules (so i have a spare), an msd copy e-core coil and the heat sink grease for under £20 sterling on ebay (free p&p). the module will mount to a finned ally heat sink from a welder.
neil.
I know that the GM modules are far cheaper than the Bosch ones, but I can't seem to find any info on the relative circuitry between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,395 ·
Funny how fate has a way of intervening........
Whilst waiting for the mega-expensive module to arrive I started poking around in the darker corners of the garage and came across this:

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It's a very early Mallory Hy-Fire IV that came 'free' with a Mallory coil which I bought for the car some years ago as "It doesn't work so you're welcome to it." Well it transpired that, upon bench testing the box and coil it appeared that the coil didn't work, but the box did..... I thought no more about it and put it in a box of other ignition stuff.

I rediscovered it whilst rummaging around for ignition modules (!), found the manual which I downloaded when I got the box and it looked like it would work OK with a magnetic pick-up.

Had to go out today to help a friend weld up his new race-car chassis, but before I went I 'hotwired' the box into the wiring circuit and..... Well......It did this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #1,398 ·
Got the clutch release bearing shimmed and fitted, with internal pressure and bleed hoses fitted:
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The hose ends have bulkhead type fittings crimped to the ends, but due to the thickness of the bellhousing they thread into the casing and are loctited in place, and burp out at the very rear of the bellhousing:

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And after that there was no excuse not to fit the gearbox, so after removing the passenger's door and craning the 'box in using an engine crane it actually dropped straight in. Result!

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Discussion Starter · #1,399 ·
You little bleeder....
Very proud of my clutch bleed:

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All stainless steel. Made from an old brake line fitting and a piece of scrap 2mm SS plate (and a small dab of electric glue).
Held in place with M5 button-head screws and crimped to the hose.
Hose goes through existing holes in the pedal box and then joins the pressure hose for the short trip to the gearbox:

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Ends up looking quite neat and very accessible:

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I know that the bleed should be above the level of the cylinder, but this is one instance where form will have to triumph over function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,400 ·
Made and fitted the brake/clutch fluid feed hard lines that run from the reservoir to the lower bulkhead panel. Should be OK to put fluid in now, but I'll spanner check all of the tube-nuts first.
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Rubbish photo. Tubes are aluminium with custom #SpeedFlow tube nuts and sleeves. They are all clipped together with nylon clip-on separators.
It was necessary to get that job out of the way as the access would be limited once the manifolds are in the way.

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See!
Although I have a fetish for stainless-steel bolts, the manifolds are held on with HT steel cap-head bolts to aid removal should I ever need to. Washers and spring washers are SS though 😁
With the headers in place it seemed almost churlish not to hang the turbskies off them. Turbo bolts are just HT Cap-heads for the same reason as the manifolds - stainless bolts don't like heat!

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Both turbos have a rose-jointed support link which is bolted to threaded bosses in the frame. Hopefully these will take some of the strain off the headers.

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The turbos aren't particularly small, but they look positively dwarfed by the sheer heft of the engine.

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And it's only Saturday! I must be able to get more done tomorrow........
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,401 ·
Spending time with some dirty hose.
(Actually all of the hoses are spanky clean, but it didn't have the comedic effect).

Turbo drain flanges were made a looong time ago. They have -12AN male fittings and held in place by recessed countersunk allen bolts:

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Hoses are (obviously) -12AN, and run down from the turbos to the returns in the front of the sump:

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While I was at it I renewed one of the oil filter remote/cooler hoses as I'd spilled fibreglass resin on it.

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And made/fitted the fuel feed hose from the chassis bulkhead.....

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Up to join the fuel reg and multitude of hoses in the engine valley:

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So the end of another perfect weekend. Real progress happening!

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Discussion Starter · #1,402 ·
Didn't quite get the oil feeds done at the weekend, so I've spent an evening doing it:

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Flanges were made the same time as the drain flanges and are tapped M10x1, held in place with C/S SS bolts again. Hose is -4AN and goes from here to the oil block in the valley. The intention was to run the hoses around the back of the engine to keep them invisible, but that (potentially) exposed them to manifold heat so they now run around the front of the heads and into the valley.
 
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