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be careful, once started i got a bit obsessed with ss button head bolts on my anglia gasser and used them even where you couldn't see them.
or is that my OCD? :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,022
be careful, once started i got a bit obsessed with ss button head bolts on my anglia gasser and used them even where you couldn't see them.
or is that my OCD? :lol:
Already there! All of the screws on the car are SS cap/head, button head or CS whether you can see them or not. I've actually got more $ in nuts & bolts than I have in the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,023
Behind the front trim panel I've drilled larger holes so that the rivets that hold the trim to the door card won't interfere with the panel sitting flat.



At the back of the door card, these hand-joddled brackets hook inside the door frame to keep everything neat and tight. I've allowed enough gap to wrap the trim material around the card.



On the outside of the panel the countersunk rivets will (hopefully) not show through the rim material.



"Trim material?" I hear you exclaim. Yes, there will be some, maybe all, material trim coverage on the door cards.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,024
You'll be pleased to know (I'm sure I am) that this will be the last post on the doors for a while as they are, essentially, complete.



The original wooden window frame trims have been retained, and thinned to allow smooth operation of the door release handles. Small shaped 'escutcheon' panels cover the mechanism. These will only be fully riveted in once the door cards are 100% complete and finished.





So there we have it. Far too many hours. Far too much material wasted. Far too much welding but at last they are ready to go back on the car.



I still have to make a decision on colour/texture of the trims and window surrounds, but I know they won't be 'baby nappy brown'!
 

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with the raised holey bit removed had you considered engine turning the flat panels? with clear lacquer it could look a bit psychedelic. or i could be talking cods wallop! lol.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,026 (Edited)
with the raised holey bit removed had you considered engine turning the flat panels? with clear lacquer it could look a bit psychedelic. or i could be talking cods wallop! lol.
neil.
I have a cunning plan for the door card. Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,027
"Screamer. You know you are a screamer" sang pop group Supertramp on their 1974 album 'Crime of the Century'. At least I thing that's what they sang.
Anyhoo, screamers. As it looks like the draconian certification system here in NZ is going to prevent the 'reaper from being (legally) on the road I've decided to go with open screamers (wastegate dump pipes).
These are all in Stainless-steel.
They are slightly different as the drivers' side pipe has to miss the steering arm.





 

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Discussion Starter #1,028
Blimey, nearly two months since I last posted here.
No, I haven't died.
I've been beavering away on my many projects, including the 'Reaper.
There are quite a few sub-projects happening on the old '38 at the moment, none of which are photo/story worthy until I've got them totally sorted.
However, whilst I was underneath today with a TIG in one hand and a hammer in the other (!) I snapped this photo:



Kinda cool with gearbox, axle, exhaust, undertray and clutch cylinder (just) in the photo, and demonstrates to me the work that's already been done.
Now I can't wait to get it complete and painted, though the boss' doorslammer may have other ideas.......
 

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Same here, man. I'd love to see your ride on the road. Look, I'm not sure about your exact wheel size, but if ever you're planning to go for a modded build, might as well check out the amazing lineup of wheels from 4WheelOnline, to add flair to your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,031
Sill-E Season

Door sills that is.......
They didn't look too bad:



They were a bit flimsy as the metal was a bit thin, but the thing that annoyed me was the disappearing swage line on the door and rear panel.
So out with the grinder and off they went!

To be replaced by these:





Sorry about the shite photo's but you get the gist.
Now made from 2mm 'C' section with the swage line joiner let in.
Obviously there is some smoothing and fine shaping to be done, but I think they'll work well, look good and be unique.

Another couple of additions to the garage are these:





Shrinker/stretcher and (another) new TIG. I seldom invest in myself, and buying the shrinker/stretcher (for this project at least) is like shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted, but it's a cool piece of kit.
The TIG replaces my cheap Chinese one which, although was great on thicker metal had no discernible adjustment to the output. The BOC one was very cheap but will adjust down to paper-thin steel. Handy when you're welding 2mm steel to 38 year old metal!
 

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Yes just treated myself to a shrinker/stretcher, wish I had got one ages ago. Bit of a ball ache swopping the jaws over as made an S shape joiner strip yesterday. Sill looks great , its all in the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,033
Yes just treated myself to a shrinker/stretcher, wish I had got one ages ago. Bit of a ball ache swopping the jaws over as made an S shape joiner strip yesterday. Sill looks great , its all in the details.
Yep, I've wanted one for years. A customer of my company was 'upgrading' a few of his tools so I pounced. Bought a few items, and they are so well kept that you'd assume they were new. Hopefully there are still a few things on the 'Reaper that will need shrinking/stretching and welding....
 

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Discussion Starter #1,034
It's been a public holiday here in NZ today, so out with the beer and tabs!

Panel securing tabs that is....

Remember how the front panels looked:



Very sexy I'm sure you'll agree, but would probably rattle a bit as they aren't held in place by anything!
Enter the tabs:



Made for this very purpose some time ago. They are 3mm steel tapped M6, and welded:



Here, here, here, here and here, and accept these:



Sexy (tacky?) countersunk washers with allen head screws.

Whilst I was out and about exploring the parameters of my new welder, I seam-welded the engine bulkhead to the 'A' pillars:



Welded the bonnet Dzus clips in place:



Filled these two random holes in the LH front 1/4 panel which I suspect may have been for a radio aerial:



Let in a thin strip if metal in front of the RH trafficator to improve the door gap in that area:



Bought a big old V-twin compressor which should take care of the painting duties. "What more equipment?" I hear you ask:



And generally fell in love with the old girl again :D

 

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that looks much better. if you still get any buzzing vibrations super glue rubber washers (tap washers?) behind each hole on the panels.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,038
that looks much better. if you still get any buzzing vibrations super glue rubber washers (tap washers?) behind each hole on the panels.
neil.
Good idea. If I can find the really thin ones then the panels will still fit flush to the bars.

And on that subject, more tabs:



These are liberally scattered around the dash/bulkhead tubes:



To secure the wiring loom(s) to. I hate cable-ties wrapped around the rollcage and (as indicated above) they would interfere with the smooth lines of the panels.
The tabs give strong and secure fixings that I can either bolt 'P' clips to, or use the holes for cable ties.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,039
I'll soon be up to my armpits in filler and primer as it's bodywork next!
But until then, a little light relief:

The rear lights were bought from a swap-meet for (I think) about $8. They suit the car well, but one of them had the securing studs snapped:





"No problem," I hear you say, "Buy another one!"
Not that simple, dear reader. It appears they are Lucas-Butler, date from the 40's/50's and originally fitted to the Series 1 Land Rover.
They are available, but the lenses alone are north of $100 each. Brrrr.....Not on my budget!

So, grind off, drill through, press a pair of studs cut from M6 bolts and weld around:



At the same time I've pushed the bulb-holders through to almost flush as behind the panel is limited for space, and it won't hurt to have the bulbs closer to the lenses.
(This is the 'good' side that didn't need grindy-grindy, drilly-drilly and weldy-weldy)



There we go - all restored and lovely, and now packaged away in a safe place:



 
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