Cheating The Reaper
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I would have done, but that's where the wiring looms run
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Bored on a wire. Part 3
Centre console switch panel wiring:
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Switches for L&R electric windows, ignition on/off key switch and battery cut-out.
The ignition switch and battery cut out are wired on the earth side of the ignition relay windings so as soon as either are turned off the ignition circuit is cut.
Boring isn't it? :S
Centre console switch panel wiring:
Switches for L&R electric windows, ignition on/off key switch and battery cut-out.
The ignition switch and battery cut out are wired on the earth side of the ignition relay windings so as soon as either are turned off the ignition circuit is cut.
Boring isn't it? :S
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The world hates a pedant you know!Not so sure about the non-standard loom colours, but that's just me
It's all quite simple, black is earth, red is live (except for the window fuses which came pre-wired black), blue is pretty, brown and white are flame-proof wiring so even if I overload the widows I should be safe!
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The back story....
Back at the start of the build the rear of the car looked like this:
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Spare wheel recess, rust, filler and a very dodgy vallance repair (it was at least 15mm longer on one side!)
Soon after, the spare wheel recess had been cut out and reversed, and by this time was already hinged to form the boot lid:
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Probably a year or so later, the boot lid now had proper shuts and drip channels, the rear lights had found a place in the original fuel filler hole (with a symmetrical one on the other side. Obvs.). By this time the rear arches had been lifted about 50mm meaning that the body line had to be remade with a tighter radius, and the rear vallance had been replaced by this spunky little number with a frenched license plate recess (with hidden illumination!).
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Then skip forward another year or so to today. As the rear panel has, like the fibreglass front end, had every part of it modified or replaced it's taken a while to get it straight. It has been the second most time-consuming part of the car but now it's been smoothed , filled and primed it looks.....well.....hot-rod-ish!
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The primer has only been rag-rolled (hence the 'mottled' finish) as it will all need to be rubbed out and re-primed, but after months of looking at various layers of paint and filler it's really great to see it in one colour.
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Body-wise there are now only the rear quarters, roof, doors, boot, bonnet, bonnet sides and scuttle to prepare, but all of them put together are unlikely to take as long as the rear panel has.
Back at the start of the build the rear of the car looked like this:
Spare wheel recess, rust, filler and a very dodgy vallance repair (it was at least 15mm longer on one side!)
Soon after, the spare wheel recess had been cut out and reversed, and by this time was already hinged to form the boot lid:
Probably a year or so later, the boot lid now had proper shuts and drip channels, the rear lights had found a place in the original fuel filler hole (with a symmetrical one on the other side. Obvs.). By this time the rear arches had been lifted about 50mm meaning that the body line had to be remade with a tighter radius, and the rear vallance had been replaced by this spunky little number with a frenched license plate recess (with hidden illumination!).
Then skip forward another year or so to today. As the rear panel has, like the fibreglass front end, had every part of it modified or replaced it's taken a while to get it straight. It has been the second most time-consuming part of the car but now it's been smoothed , filled and primed it looks.....well.....hot-rod-ish!
The primer has only been rag-rolled (hence the 'mottled' finish) as it will all need to be rubbed out and re-primed, but after months of looking at various layers of paint and filler it's really great to see it in one colour.
Body-wise there are now only the rear quarters, roof, doors, boot, bonnet, bonnet sides and scuttle to prepare, but all of them put together are unlikely to take as long as the rear panel has.
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Like that
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Venting my spleen.
The bonnet side panels didn't look that bad:
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And undoubtedly would have worked drawing air from underbonnet:
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But the gap between the top of the radiator and the side panels would have caused cold air to be drawn out around the radiator, therefore missing the rad and (possibly) causing temperature issues:
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So out with the hairy stuff (No, not you dear. For god's sake put that away! Look what you've done now, the cat thinks you've opened a can of tuna....) and a couple of these nice, curved fences now fill the gaps between rad and side panels (final trimming will be done on assembly):
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Plenty of space in front of the vents for air to get there (this is looking from above):
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And whilst I had the hairy stuff out (don't start that again....) I fashioned these curved closings for the front of the vents which I think soften the vents and are more in keeping with the shapes of the car:
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The vents should now work as intended. Oh, and while I was at it I smoothed and primed the side panels:
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The bonnet side panels didn't look that bad:
And undoubtedly would have worked drawing air from underbonnet:
But the gap between the top of the radiator and the side panels would have caused cold air to be drawn out around the radiator, therefore missing the rad and (possibly) causing temperature issues:
So out with the hairy stuff (No, not you dear. For god's sake put that away! Look what you've done now, the cat thinks you've opened a can of tuna....) and a couple of these nice, curved fences now fill the gaps between rad and side panels (final trimming will be done on assembly):
Plenty of space in front of the vents for air to get there (this is looking from above):
And whilst I had the hairy stuff out (don't start that again....) I fashioned these curved closings for the front of the vents which I think soften the vents and are more in keeping with the shapes of the car:
The vents should now work as intended. Oh, and while I was at it I smoothed and primed the side panels:
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1,486 Posts
Thanks to everyone who've liked and commented on the build. It's taken far longer than I ever intended so thanks for sticking with it!
Just like to wish all here a really great Christmas, I know this year has been rough for most people with lockdowns and ruined plans but be thankful that we've survived with our sense of humour intact!
I'm off to the garage to spend some time with the one I love!
Trevor
Just like to wish all here a really great Christmas, I know this year has been rough for most people with lockdowns and ruined plans but be thankful that we've survived with our sense of humour intact!
I'm off to the garage to spend some time with the one I love!
Trevor
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358 Posts
Nice work,
Those 'fences' unfortunately wont do anything as air will still be drawn from the source of least resistance i.e.above and below the 'fences'
If you can seal all round the core of the rad to the grill opening, then every ounce of air from in front of the rad will go through the core and cool it.
Any gaps and the air will go through them rather than thru the core.
The side vents will then pull air from behind the rad :tup:
Those 'fences' unfortunately wont do anything as air will still be drawn from the source of least resistance i.e.above and below the 'fences'
If you can seal all round the core of the rad to the grill opening, then every ounce of air from in front of the rad will go through the core and cool it.
Any gaps and the air will go through them rather than thru the core.
The side vents will then pull air from behind the rad :tup:
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1,486 Posts
Below these fences are full-length permanent fences that are already fitted between the rad and the inner panels.
The top of the rad will be sealed to the bonnet.
Not my first rodeo.
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Getting it off!
Yesterday we had the daughter, son-in-law and grandsprog round so it seemed like a good idea to put them to work.
I'd already stripped out all of the stuff to allow the body to come off, so it was just a case of unbolting the 10 bolts that held body to frame and lifting the body off.
So here are the required 'body off - rolling chassis' shots:
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In the first photo you can see the lower radiator fences that the 'new' side-panel fences butt up against.
So now the body is out of the way I can finish a few of the previously inaccessible welds as well as adding a few more things in places I won't be able to get to once the body is back on.
And the reason I wanted the body to be removable? I didn't want masking lines between the body and frame paint as they will be different colours. Yes I really am that sad!
Yesterday we had the daughter, son-in-law and grandsprog round so it seemed like a good idea to put them to work.
I'd already stripped out all of the stuff to allow the body to come off, so it was just a case of unbolting the 10 bolts that held body to frame and lifting the body off.
So here are the required 'body off - rolling chassis' shots:
In the first photo you can see the lower radiator fences that the 'new' side-panel fences butt up against.
So now the body is out of the way I can finish a few of the previously inaccessible welds as well as adding a few more things in places I won't be able to get to once the body is back on.
And the reason I wanted the body to be removable? I didn't want masking lines between the body and frame paint as they will be different colours. Yes I really am that sad!
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