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Discussion Starter · #1,164 ·
630632

630633


Back on it's wheels at last!
Diff, wishbones and shafts are fitted with all of the necessary links and brackets.
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Shame about it sitting outside in the rain, but as everything is either painted, plated or stainless-steel hopefully I can keep ahead of the rust with copious coatings of WD40 and the like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,166 ·
Looks great. What are the bolt-on brackets at the top of the spring for?
They are adjustable suspension mounts. There are a series of vertical holes on the block that's welded to the chassis, so the brackets can be adjusted up or down, and also inverted so there is around 4" of adjustment. Plus the adjustable spring platforms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,168 ·
Clutching at straws....
Those who take the slightest of interest will remember that I bought an LS flywheel with twin-plate clutch and adapted the flywheel to Ford Mod pattern.
Similarly, the clutch splines are different from the (odd) 23 spline of the Mustang Getrag gearbox. Hmmm.
I'd already bought new clutch plates (about 18 months ago and waaaay before I bought the clutch. Go figure...) which were also the wrong spline. Hmmm Hmmm....

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Fortunately the hubs are available to buy (Yay!) at $100 each o_O I thought this was a budget build.....
New hubs procured after a session with the defibrillator:
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These needed to be modified to suit, so a quick thrash on the lathe and we were good to go.
Mounting-wise the rivet holes were only 6mm, so I tapped them 8mm and threaded in M8 x 10 button-head bolts, then riveted them over with the help of a hydraulic press.
Long thread left as example of un-squeezed screw:
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All done and trial-fitted. Happy to report that everything clears and will actually work as a clutch:
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Costs as follows: LS Flywheel & clutch $150NZ, Clutch plates $80NZ, Hubs $200NZ, bolts $14NZ Total= $445NZ or about 220 GBP. Not bad, but still the second most expensive component on the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,172 ·
The Jag rear end looks good, but I don't like them for racing, it will be the first thing to let go especially with that clutch/power/slicks, and in place will go a 9" Ford.
Yes, you're probably right.
When I started the project I was in a much worse place financially and the Jag IRS (at a whole $50NZ) was a great start. At that point I wasn't sure what powerplant I was going to use and I figured it would be strong enough. We'll see how long it lasts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,173 ·
Braking Bad revisited:
Front calipers are big JFZ 4-pots, the ancestor of Willwoods and you can tell by all of the NPT threads on them :rolleyes: (I hate NPT threads).
I rebuilt these shortly after wrestling them from a passing Porsche race car some time ago, but now have re-rebuilt them using plated and stainless fixings/tube:
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I reckon it should stop OK. Calipers look a lot bigger now than before the strip-down:
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While I was at it I fitted the rear (Volvo) calipers. Had I realised what a PIA it would be getting the bottom cap-head bolts in I may have resorted to hex-bolts. They are in now though, so I can get on with plumbing them in!
630730
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,176 ·
Callipers were always a PIA on that jag rear end , you should try doing handbrake pads on a stock e type!!!
Yeah, I worked for a Jag/Daimler RR/Bentley dealership in the 70's and 80's so saw a few. Hated doing rear pads & handbrake pads on them. Volvo calipers and hydraulic handbrake are the way forward!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,177 ·
We have a small garage tacked onto the side of the main garage which has, up to now, been home to bikes, carpet, car seats, and a myriad of other various junk, but it dawned me that the contents of the garage (worth around a tenner) were dry and warm whilst the apple of my eye sat outside in the rain.
Sunday blitz. Old shit gone, bikes redistributed, carpet and blankets laid on the floor:

630759


It's a tight fit, but it's still a fit. Hopefully it will remain dry, relatively warm and shiny whilst I get the body ready to refit :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,178 ·
More stuff arrived back from the anodisers.
Steering wheel QR is no longer a garish shade of gold, fuel filter end and bracket, vacuum and turbo oil feed fittings, Coolant temp 'T' and engine wiring loom flange.
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:D
 
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