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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Front Panhard rod mounts now welded in. there is a threaded plug which is welded into the chassis tube, and ultimately there will be a bracket that bolts between the rear of the rod and the top 4-link bolt to provide 'double shear' on the bolt.



The prop hoop is welded into the lower rear crossmember. Fortunately nothing moved when I cut the tube to fit it!



Sorry about the mess!!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
Rear 4-link.
Bit of an epic saga this one. They were made for the 'new' tube frame but were far too long for the tiny wheelbase of the Escort, so I shortened them. No dramas there, except for some of the original (unused) poly-bushes had cracked and perished. New poly-bushes here worked out at around £40 per bar, and on my budget there was no way that was going to happen :shake:
So I found these rod-ends for $45 the lot. Sadly only 7, but there were enough good poly-bushes to allow for one joint on each side. Not a bad Idea I thought, but time will tell. They are designed for race-car coil-overs so should be plenty man enough:



To fix them I came up with an ingeious idea (necessity being the mother of invention and all that) to use these hose-barbs which are basically scrap stock from my company (thanks Stevie!). The OD of the thread is exactly the inside diameter of the 4-link bars, and with the correct thread bolt bunged in them they should not only look the part, but also give me a nice hex to swing on....:



Turned the head on the bolts to the same diameter, and drilled the hose-ends for the bolt to pass through:



Then weld them together. Turn threaded end of bolt the correct length etc:



TIG up the ends, and plug-weld through to the bolt head:



Clean everything up ready for a dip in 'rodders friend' before assembly:



And voila! the rod ends are all oriented so that at full tightness they are in line along the length of the tube:



This week I've also been working hard in the garage. Gearbox crossmember is fitted. Tubes are in place for the trans-tunnel, and shifter mount plate also in place.



Now that the 4-link is done I can position the axle and get the exact mount points for the rear springs, and once that is done the 'funny car' drivers cage can go in and we're nearly there chassis-wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Probably did not explain it well, but still concerned about the small size and length of thread. Those bars take a lot of strain on a hard launch.
Your call though.
Yes I do understand what you're saying. I'll try it and if it looks dodgy I'll change them out. At least now I can work out exactly where the rear springs will mount!
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I seem to have inadvertently bought something nice!
It's a SARD racing BOV. Far nicer than my original BOV.
I made up the aluminium mounting boss as the one it came with was a) designed for a hose fitting, and b) steel. Neither very favourable as I want to weld it to the intake trunking.





Bought locally for $40!
 

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I wondered about those rod ends too. The tension load on those joints and threads is comparatively low when they are used as intended in a racing car but their load in your four-bar will be substantial even if you don't mount the springs to them.
 

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i too am concerned. it's not the sort of thing you can suck it and see as if the thread strips from one of the ends (they look like aluminium so it's entirely possible with your power plant) when driving it would make a real mess and that's if you could control it enough to bring it to a safe stop. the load on them as a 4 bar end is much much greater than as a coilover end, they are not trying to pull off the end of the shock under full engine power like they will be as a 4 bar end. please reconsider their use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Point taken guys.
I'm currently using them for set-up, but when the time comes I'll drill & tap the ends of the bars which will then give me adjustments on both bars.
I'm sure I'll find a use for the forged alloy rod-ends. I bought a lot of cheap Chinese rod-ends that I'm using for hinges so they'll probably find themselves supporting the sun-visors!
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Chassis is now coming together.
The driver's 'funny car' style cage is in place as well as the rear spring bars and mounts, and rear diagonals which tie in the transmission 'spine' with the rear crossmember and spring mounts.
Just a few more bars and the main structure is finished!! Woop woop!! :)





 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
As my newly refurbished B&M shifter came without a surround I thought I'd better make one.
This is made from offcuts of 2mm thick aluminium that came with the car.
The aluminium is old, and even after the 'brushed' effect was added, the surround looks like it was made in the 60's. Perfect!







The removable rear panel will eventually house the ignition and starter switches:



Now all I need is a knob! You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find a plain ball gear knob......
 
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