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Discussion Starter · #1,183 ·
My god man ,them front calipers are HUUUGE.
Yes.... And therein lies a story.
I got to thinking about the calipers, and rapidly realised that those skinny front tyres will let go waaaaay before the calipers get anywhere near their limits.
So I've changed them :eek: for these:
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They are 'PBR' calipers, made in Australia. The mounting points are in exactly the same position as the 4-pots, and they will give me a number of advantages:
1. Being a single-piston caliper they will not need as much travel on the master cylinder to get them working.
2. They are physically smaller than the 4-pots, and having no outer piston means that I can fit the front wheels without the spacers (albeit only 5mm spacers) necessary to clear the JFZ's. I hate spacers so this is a massive advantage for me.
3. They are self-aligning.
and above all 4. Now that they have been polished and plated they are very shiny!

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I bought these a while ago to fit to my Mustang project which will now get the 4-pot JFZ's from the 'Reaper. Nothing is wasted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,185 ·
In the words of Engelbert Humperdinck, "Please release me"
Clutch release that is.
This is a new concentric release bearing from a Mercedes Sprinter van, so should be up to the task of squeezing my twin-plate. It's already had the plastic feed and bleed extensions removed.
Very similar to the Mustang bearing that the 'box should have, but less than 5% of the cost. Downside is that it needs a bit of fettling to fit.
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Once it's fully stripped it looks like this:

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Then it was trimmed, and thinned by 3mm to make room for a 3mm 'spreader' mounting plate.
The feed and bleed were shortened and replaced by -3AN weld-ons. The alloy quality is excellent and it welded really nicely.

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Mount holes were opened up and ovaled, then it was put back together:

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I'll make up a few shims so it can be set at the optimum height, but after that it should (!) adjust itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,187 ·
On to plumbing, and utilising those channels that run through all of the crossmembers.
Starting with the fuel pumps (that are in the approximate correct place, but will be coming off for a good clean before final assembly) up to bulkheads in the rear diff mount crossmember and through to channel in the front diff crossmember:

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Then on to another couple of bulkheads for the transition to Stainless-Steel hard lines:

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Which run through crossmember and 'K' member to the fuel filter:

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And then forward through the motor plate mount channel to the bulkhead through the front chassis where it will ultimately meet a flexible line up to the fuel regulator:

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This last line will share the channel with the main battery/starter lead.
Unfortunately the bender I was using left small 'dints' in the pipe, but I'm still sure it will flow plenty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,189 ·
LL with it solid at both ends is there any concern with s/s fatigue cracking from expansion contraction ?
I don't think so. There are enough bends in the pipes to 'absorb' the minimal amounts of expansion/contraction, and remember the climate is much more mild here - we don't see minus temperatures at all, and we think it's cold when it's 15*c!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,190 ·
As I'm plumbing the chassis I thought it might be an idea to drop the pedal box in place to plumb the brake and clutch lines. Then I thought I'd better plumb up the pedal box to establish what goes where, so here it is. Dual circuit master cylinder, lutch cylinder, line-lock and brake light switch all is a tiny area (I should have been a Gynaecologist !). Black hose is clutch feed from reservoir, blue hose is clutch pressure, white hoses are cylinder to linelock, linelock to front brake circuit and rear brake to circuit:
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All plumbed in HEL (from the UK!) flexible, road tagged hose.

On the inside the fittings go: AN4 feed from reservoir to front brake, AN3 front & rear brake circuits, Clutch pressure. AN4 feed to clutch and rear brake circuits from reservoir.
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All needs a tidy and clean before it's finally fitted, but it looks relatively neat and it's all relatively accessible.

631270
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,192 ·
Front brake lines in Stainless-steel with small hex XRP stainless nuts and SpeedFlow banjo fittings.
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Thanks to the small holes that these have to pass through, the master to front line had to be bent and fitted before it could be flared. Form over function methinks.

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Here in NZ you need to be approved by the LVVTA (basically the specialist vehicle authority) to be able to make stainless-steel hard lines for road cars. Fortunately I have the approval. Ironically any blind dog with leprosy can legally make copper-nickel lines. Makes you wonder who makes the rules......
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,195 ·
Thanks for the comments guys.
Now that all of the stainless brake lines are run and fitted I thought I ought to secure them to the chassis.
Anyone can buy brake line clips but, "I think you've spent enough," so the options narrowed......
Rummaging around in the workshop I found a couple of offcuts of 10mm steel and made this little tool. It didn't have to be too great as I only needed to make 10 clips:
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Which produced these. The material is stainless-steel cut from an offcut of Kawasaki exhaust silencer:

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With the clips positioned at the requisite 300mm (or less) apart, the chassis was drilled and tapped M4 to accept stainless button-head capscrews:

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The rear line (like the front) had to be run through before it was flared, but I'm quite pleased with the overall result.
It was pointed out that these lines will only be seen if I stick the car on it's roof, but as the short wheelbase and big power will make that a distinct possibility they need to look nice.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,197 ·
its beginning to look like apollo 11,super professional .
Wasn't that the one that crashed?

You have a right to be pleased with yourself with the results the brake of the brake pipes, very nice job you have made of them.
Thanks for the nice comments. However I did make a small [email protected]#k up as I forgot to plumb in the hydraulic handbrake.
No bother, cut, bent and flared the pipes in the right area and attached them to 90 degree bulkheads which will be secured to the floor:
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You will notice the copious quantities of sh*t and water on the chassis. We had a small 'monsoon' here in Auckland and the garage roof suffered a bit.......
Still, onwards and upwards as they say. Avid followers will remember this:

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The through-bulkhead fitting for fluid transfer from reservoir to cylinders. This is now (temporarily) fitted and the in-car hardlines run from bulkhead to pedal box:

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These run on top of the floor panel so will be secured on final assembly. Won't be long now, just have a couple of mods to the bulkhead and floor panels to make them look super-tidy.
 
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