[legendlives]

Spending time with some dirty hose.
(Actually all of the hoses are spanky clean, but it didn't have the comedic effect).

Turbo drain flanges were made a looong time ago. They have -12AN male fittings and held in place by recessed countersunk allen bolts:

Hoses are (obviously) -12AN, and run down from the turbos to the returns in the front of the sump:

While I was at it I renewed one of the oil filter remote/cooler hoses as I'd spilled fibreglass resin on it.

And made/fitted the fuel feed hose from the chassis bulkhead.....

Up to join the fuel reg and multitude of hoses in the engine valley:

So the end of another perfect weekend. Real progress happening!

 

[legendlives]

Didn't quite get the oil feeds done at the weekend, so I've spent an evening doing it:

Flanges were made the same time as the drain flanges and are tapped M10x1, held in place with C/S SS bolts again. Hose is -4AN and goes from here to the oil block in the valley. The intention was to run the hoses around the back of the engine to keep them invisible, but that (potentially) exposed them to manifold heat so they now run around the front of the heads and into the valley.

 

[legendlives]

"It don't mean a thing if you ain't got that bling." So sang Ella Fitzgerald. At least I think that's what she sang.

Some carburettor components expertly re-plated by Acme Platers our local plating company. I re-plated everything I could safely remove:

Which gives the re-rebuilt carbs just the right amount of bling.

Bodies have been refinished in the same crackle-blue as the cam covers and (I think) contrast nicely with the bare float chambers and metering blocks.

Now reunited with the manifold. The push-pull throttle linkage is now in place and adjusted. I did it this way to keep the links mostly hidden between the carbs and under the hat as Holley throttle parts are hardly going to win beauty contests.

And yet more bling - a new delivery of custom anodised hose ends and fittings. These are (mainly) for the additional plumbing necessary for the boost controller.

 

[Taxirod]

I hadnt caught up with this thread for some time, and i just made up for that by reading right up to date.
Some amazing stuff going on there! Mind boggling for me, you certainly are very knowledgeable and talented.
What an outstanding rod this is going to be!

 

[legendlives]

Thanks Taxirod. Really nice to get appreciation from my peers!

 

[ivanhoew]

this is going to be prettty blimmen powerfull on a good 20 psi ! woof .

 

[legendlives]

"These boost are made for walking." So sang Nancy Sinatra in her 60's hit. At least I think that's what she sang.
Boost plumbing:

The boost controller sits in the rollcage space between the engine and interior bulkhead panels just alongside the bellhousing:

Originally it sat above the steering column, but I needed somewhere to put the ignition box and space is at a premium in this area:

(As an aside, that Mallory sticker with the blue writing is a truly international affair - ordered from a UK company, paid for in $US, dispatched from China to me in NZ. All for $4!).

Of the three boost controller hoses, two go through bulkhead fittings to the engine bay, and the boost sensor hose goes alongside the wiring loom into the engine valley. The two bulkheads pop out here and are split into 2 courtesy of these #SpeedFlow 'T' pieces:

From there they pass behind the heads to the wastegates:

And from the wastegate 'T' piece, forward to the turbo pressure side (via clips on the inner wings):

With the final hoses in the valley (and all of the others checked for tightness) it's time to finally fit the intake manifold and fuel hoses. The intake is held down by (unsurprisingly) stainless-steel cap-head bolts. All of the hose fittings are supplied by SpeedFlow in Aus, and I owe them a great debt of gratitude for supporting the project.

The small hose above is the boost sensor hose which goes back to the boost controller and splits off to the boost gauge.

Small hose at the rear of the left-hand side goes to the rising-rate fuel regulator.

At the front of the manifold, 2 hoses to the BOV's:

If the boost controller does not work as it should, it's a very easy job to revert to mechanical only operation as that's the way it was designed in the first place!

It's definitely coming together!

 

[Lil' Sammy]

Blimey that looks complicated, I have no idea what's going on!

 

[legendlives]

Blimey that looks complicated, I have no idea what's going on!

Me neither!

 

[legendlives]

'Can the can', So sang Suzi Quatro on her 1972 hit. No, she really did!
Catch can awesomeness:

The oil catch can sits at the right-hand rear of the engine bay, tucked in behind the air vent and snaking around the engine bar.

The drain hose goes from the bottom of the can (obvs) and down to this little bracket secured by the lowest engine plate bolt:

So to drain the can is just a matter of removing the #SpeedFlow -6AN cap and watching the (hopefully) tiny amounts of oil drop onto the floor (or drain can).

Breather hoses are -10AN and are pretty unimpressive. The left-hand hose misses everything on the bulkhead. Right-hand hose has tiny amounts of clearance, but it does have clearance!

 

[legendlives]

'What's harder, life or Mr. Starter?' So sang Lil Wayne, at least I think that's what he said.

The ongoing saga of the starter motor.
Some may remember the mish-mash of components around the starter area, there is an Aussie Mod Motor/Coyote block, the gearbox from a Mustang, Flywheel from an LS and the starter motor from some unknown ford (probably Mod Motor).
When I fitted the flywheel I measured it at around 4mm smaller than the Ford flywheel that I had. Again, the Ford flywheel was largely unknown but it should (!) have been a match for the engine. Anyway, due to the smaller LS flywheel I made up offset bushes to move the starter in by 2mm. It all should have worked fine.
Come to fit the starter and the 'nose' is too extended. No problem, make up some spacers and fit it in the correct space.
Bolt up starter and hit button. Starter jams. Remove starter and check operation. Starter fine. Refit starter and hit button. Starter jams.
Inspect closely and find that starter is too close to ring gear, by about 2mm ( )
So remake the offset mount bushes to concentric bushes, and extend them through the flange so that they locate and secure the spacers:

Haven't been able to try it yet, and I may have to shell out for the 'correct' starter, but it all looks like it should work!

 

[legendlives]

'This is the daubing of the swage of aquarius', so sang the cast of 'Hair'. At least I think that's what they sang.....

Around the wheel orifices of the front wings are these swages, beads, raised bits:

As seen on a myriad of Pops, Prefects, 'Y's etc.
The problem is that the rear arches don't have any thanks to the massive radiuses cut out necessary to fit the - quite honestly pornographic - huge rear tyres. Time to rectify the problem!
So I ground out the edges of the arches:

Made a 'special tool' :

And proceeded to daub on some filler:

Obviously it needs sanding and refilling in places, but overall I'm pretty pleased with the result. I might get on to painting the rear arches if the weather improves a bit.

In other news, this week I picked up this vent filter for the catch can:

It's intended for a little off-road minibike (hence the waterproof cover), but it fits the tank perfectly and actually doesn't look too tacky, and for about 5 of your English pounds I reckon it will do.

The cooler cooler:
The oil cooler has always been particularly unimpressive. It's like millions of oil coolers with a couple of AN males sticking out of the top and reasonably pants brackets hanging out of the sides. Mine was made by Earls and was in a silvery colour. On my car, the only way I could fit it where I wanted it was to secure it with long studs which pass through top and bottom brackets and are secured by M6 nuts on the top. This gave two niggles: 1) The top brackets distorted when the nuts were tightened, and 2) the exposed studs looked particularly nasty.
The solution was to bend up a couple of alloy 'C' sections and weld them in place. This a) strengthens the top brackets enough to take a tightening, and b) hides the exposed studs:

Picture taken after a nice crackle black coating to make it look cooler!

The tubular alloy frame for the oil filter remote locates on the oil cooler studs at the top:

And locates on tabs welded to the chassis at the bottom. The lower bushes are threaded M6 and secured by button-head Stainless screws:

The filter remote should have been fitted by now, but I pressure tested it and found that the casting was porous, and had cracks running along all of the threaded ports. Neither conducent to keeping fluids within a pressurised oil system. A replacement is being sourced.

 

[splitty66]

That’s exactly how I did my wing edges to make them all the same, your getting there mate.

 

[legendlives]

'Loving a radiator'. So sang Aerosmith, at least I think that's what they sang....

Bit of a recap here as most of this is just refitting what I'd made before.
Radiator was intended for some kind of Mitsubishi and was intended to be crossflow. Fortunately it fits between the frame rails and is more-or-less the right height and shape for the 7Y bodywork.
It has a big 'pusher' fan at the top.....

And a smaller 'puller' fan at the bottom:

The overflow hose goes from the filler neck down to the expansion bottle:

And the 'spill' (attached to a full-height internal tube in the expansion tank) runs down to a fitting in the inner panel:

Which will drop any unnecessary coolant on the floor from here:

The radiator itself is mounted on this tubular frame at the top:

And these lower mounts:

It's rubber mounted on all 4 corners. The top frame is parallel and square but the photo makes it looks odd.

More clever stuff was started over this weekend but I'm keeping it quiet until it's finished!

 

[legendlives]

The old Bailey.....

I recently discovered that the felt 'U' shaped channel that windows run up and down in is called Bailey channel.
Anyhoo, the old Bailey channel in the doors had been there for many decades. It had been painted as many times as the car had, it was cracked & split and generally fubar'd.

Needed replacement, and the same replacement channel is available, but at $80 a metre (and the need of 5+ metres) put it a little out of my budget.
(Puts on thinking cap. Rummages in garage. Scours internet....)

I found this channel on TradeMe (other auction sites are available):

It's very flexible, and at only around $80 for the full amount that I needed it was a bargain! Problem is, it has no structure and would therefore flop about a bit.
(Puts on bigger capacity thinking cap. Rummages in darkest garage corners. Has eureka moment!)
I found some used aluminium 'C' channel in a bundle that I'd bought for $8. Last of the big spenders!
Enough to make 2 of these:

Which fit up in the door frames like they were made for them

(obviously not secured in place yet).
The floppy Bailey channel fits in the aluminium channel perfectly:

If anyone's interested, I put the two main bends in the channel by cutting out one side in both places (leaving an 'L' section), shrunk the bottom of the 'L' to shape, and then cut curved sections to weld back to the top of the 'L' to make it back into the 'C'.

One less job to do.

 

[legendlives]

A quickie in the mirror

I've had the door mirror for a long time. It was originally intended for some kind of motorcycle but the arm angle is perfect if I mount it on the top of the door.
Whilst rummaging in the garage for some other stuff I found this in a random box:

It's a mirror mount from (I'm guessing) one of the old 1960's 'Le Mans' style mirrors. They would add 10mph to the top end of your Anglia in the day!
Anyway, I filled the 'unnecessary' hole with a threaded aluminium insert, and put a M6 stud into the end of said insert, then smoothed it off a bit and put the mirror into it:

The mount and mirror stem will all go body colour.

That's all. Have a nice day!

 

[blackpopracing]

Once you fit that mirror you wil never look back!

 

[legendlives]

I wasn't 100% happy with the spill tube from the expansion tank, so in a situation that has never happened before (!) I remade it!.
Spill now has a tube which will take any excess coolant away from the chassis and spring and dump it on the ground:

On the inside, a 90 degree fitting gets the hose more in line with the expansion tank:

and with a 120 degree hose end (replacing the 90 degree that I was using) to allow for the lay-back of the radiator it now looks like I thought about it!

 

[legendlives]

Once you fit that mirror you wil never look back!

You know what they say - Don't look back in Anglia!
I'll get my coat.........