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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Picked up this the other night. It's a Comp Cams XE274H cam, lifters, pushrods, dual springs, caps & shims.
Very low miles. The guy that sold them to me said the cam was 'too much' for him, so he's downgraded to a Thumpr cam.
All this for $51 (about 25 quid). I love New Zealand!

 

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The old Switcheroo.....

At last the rocker switches have arrived (thanks NZ post...). All 5 cost me $12 inc postage so mustn't grumble.
They are rated at 2.5 amps at 250 volts so should adequately transmit enough amperage to power the relays.
Switches rated for AC are not very suitable for DC loads; the switching action is slow and the air gap between the contacts is small so you get arcing and burnt contacts. As you say, the current when you are just driving a relay coil is very small but you might want to put a diode across the relay coil to stop the switch sparking when you turn it off.

Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
It's nice when you get to the point in your project when you start unbolting things and building them properly. Here's the finished axle - narrowed, strengthened, set-up, painted and built. To recap, it's a Hilux axle ('The Japanese 9"') 4.11 gears, LSD. Narrowed about 300mm. Brakes are Skyline. There are literally hundreds of hours in this thing, but all of a sudden it all seems worth it!







The calipers will have to come off for beautifying before they are finally fitted, and they will probably go black like everything else hub-end.
 

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Nice axle..:tup:..I've got a 4.11 adapted into the front housing of a RangeRover axle and a Landcruiser rear centre adapted into the rear axle in my '53 project truck, both came from my offroad truck and have stood up to a good few years of abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Added this little crossmember across the front chassis.
This serves two purposes:
It reinforces the area around the panhard rod mount, and
It's main purpose is to support the turbo.



The turbo mount plates look like this:



The exhaust plate (the exhaust from the engine will be welded to it) goes on next:



Followed by the turbo:





It may need to go higher, but definitely not lower, so I can mount the exhaust plate/turbo on spacers which will help with heat transfer.

The idea behind the mounting is that you'll see the compressor wheel through the grille:



The front-end that's on the car ATM is reasonably FUBAR but hopefully I'll score better panels before the bodywork stage!
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Wheel meet again...

I've had the wheels for a while, and now the time to fit them is getting closer I thought I'd have a play.
They came to me in a very rough and unloved silver. The rears are 12"x15":



After a strip, clean and dust over with the proposed new colour:



I have to stress that this isn't the finished article (I'll paint all 4 wheels at the same time), I just wanted to check out the colour.

What do the R'N'S massive think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Radiator Part 1

So I bought the nice alloy radiator:



But unfortunately it won't fit in the front of the car because someone has bolted a big, shiny snail where it wants to be :shake:

It does, however, fit perfectly between the wheel tubs, so under the boot floor is where it needs to be!
That being the case, virtually everything is in the wrong place. Cut a few bits of aluminium and out with the airsaw and hole drill:



You'll notice that both the in and out pipes will now be on the same tank as both in and out pipes will be run down the left-hand sill and I didn't want an untidy pipe going across the car either underneath or through the boot, so it needs to be converted to a cross-flow rad, done by cutting away yet more metal:



Cutting and inserting the 'separator' :



And then welding the whole lot back together again:



Next is block the superfluous holes:



Weld on the new 'poky through the boot floor' filler neck:



and weld the bottom hose into it's new position:



It ends up looking like this:



So far so good. Next is mounting the thing. Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Radiator Part 2

Mounts.
Here are the mount components:



The aluminium brackets weld on to the rad:



Rubber grommets fitted:



And the steel mounts bolted in:



The upright steel tubes will fit through holes drilled in the boot floor framework and be welded into place.

 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
sexy bit of radnosity , airflow to the rad?
The sides of the rad will be sealed to the boot floor, and the bootlid vented so hopefully as the car goes along the airflow over the boot will draw through enough to cool it.
I am going to fit a blower fan underneath to 'encourage' airflow, and there will be a plate underneath the tank to keep direct heat away from the fuel (I may fit a fuel cooler in the future if it becomes a problem).
Hopefully with the additional coolant capacity due to the length of hoses will also help keep the bugger cool.
 
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