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Needs Chevy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after lots of lurking and learning I managed to source a half engine from the states for my project car.

It's a 1974 four bolt main on standard bores and crank, and at first glance hadn't been run in a long long time.

After its arrival I soon found why it had been pulled; head gasket failure and seize on number 7 cylinder. So, poured diesel down the bores and let it be for a week, rocked it over and did the same to the other bank.

Three weeks after it arrived it was time to strip to the bare block and box all the components.

Initially it started to come apart fairly easily and not having stripped a Chevy or even a V8 before, I took it steady(ish). Managed to wreck a cheap harmonic balancer puller in the process but with a little heat and hammer persuasion the balancer grip relented.





Sump off, timing case off, lifters out, timing chain and sprockets off and out came the camshaft. Loosened the mains and caps and then one by one dropped the pistons and rods out.

Popped out the core plugs and cam end cap and laid out the destruction.



I don't intend on keeping any components from this, I just need the block as I'm going for a full new parts build on it.



It's since been degreased and paint stripped.



Now it's sat waiting for an appointment at the machine shop for the hot tank, rebore and new camshaft bearings to be fitted.

I'll update when I've unpacked the latest pile of goodies for the build and it's back from the machine shop. Hoping to start building in a week or so.

Thanks for reading! :tup:

Sam
 

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Administrator
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If you want to upgrade the oiling a little, buy a STD MELLING pump, blueprint it & smooth out the sharp edges then contact me if you would like to fit a different pressure relief spring (I had to special order 5 from Melling USA to get them so I have 4 left over) which will increase oil pressure by 10Psi. This is all you will ever need, don't make the mistake of buying a high pressure or high volume pump - both are not a good investment for reasons too complicated to go into here.

Buy "how to rebuild a small block Chevy" & "how to hot rod a small block Chevy" to find out all you ever need to know on these engines - they will also explain the oil pressure problems with the 2 pumps mentioned above.
 

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Needs Chevy
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You're doing a fine job. Something you might find interesting or helpful is a guy on Youtube under Cartapes. Search for hotrodding the SBC, it's a bit old and outdated but the principles are the same and the steps are clearly explained
Thanks for that info, found the vid and saved his channel for when I get home from work!

If you want to upgrade the oiling a little, buy a STD MELLING pump, blueprint it & smooth out the sharp edges then contact me if you would like to fit a different pressure relief spring (I had to special order 5 from Melling USA to get them so I have 4 left over) which will increase oil pressure by 10Psi. This is all you will ever need, don't make the mistake of buying a high pressure or high volume pump - both are not a good investment for reasons too complicated to go into here.

Buy "how to rebuild a small block Chevy" & "how to hot rod a small block Chevy" to find out all you ever need to know on these engines - they will also explain the oil pressure problems with the 2 pumps mentioned above.
Already bought the first book you've mentioned, appears very informative and useful. Unfortunately I've already ordered the Melling high volume pump and its now arrived, before I send it back for exchange I'll skip to that chapter and learn why. I'm keen to follow your guidance as I'm planning to track my project at times and most likely installing an accusump system.

I've been going at the exterior casting with a dremmel smoothing the rough/sharp edges whilst awaiting the machine shop. I have week's lead time to wait :(
 

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Needs Chevy
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, I've got a mid-engined kit car I've been building up over the last few years. Not a hotrod I'm afraid.
 

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fat rotbox rodder
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5,805 Posts
I`ve only rebuilt one engine and it was a 1978 2 bolt main 350.it was standard bore that was honed out with a drill with an honing attachment . had the crank ground ( professionally)10 thou as it was scored .used the stock con rods and bought a set of standard bore hyperuntenic pistons . put an Edelbrock rpm cam inlet and heads on .the car weighed 1200kg and ran low 12`s on motor and late 10`s with gas .the engine had a load of abuse for 6-7 years before it rattled .turned out one of the old con rod bolts had loosened /stretched . i was surprise the engine lasted as long as it did as it was my first and only engine build. I must admit I was worried when we first fired the engine up and run in the cam and even more worried when I used the gas for the first time. your doing the right thing taking your time and reading/getting as much info as you can :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, long time, no post but I've finally amassed the rebuild parts.



A successful machine shop visit; now rebored to 30 thou and new camshaft bearings fitted.



Gave it three coats of POR-15 Ford Red Engine Enamel (because Chevy Red is orange).



Also built this ready to start assembling.



I'm just needing to source a decent PCV setup and an alternator now.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
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Good work mate,

Ditto avoid high pressure/volume pumps.

Built a few SBC's, i'm now going solid lifter as i'm tired of adjusting hydraulic lifters and not sure they're pumped up or not, I know most will probably say hydraulic is simpler but i've never got my head round them. I'm used to adjusting lash on crossflows and i'm happy with that.
Also roller lifters are the way to go if you have the ££, no more worries with flat cams and the wrong oils.

The good thing abut the SBC is the wide range of head gasket thickness's available, aim for the highest compression ratio you can get for the cam you have before detonation, simple calculators online for this, happy to show you, I ended up with 0.015" head gasket on the Vette and 0.051 on the Stude, both cars had different cc heads 70cc vs 58, different piston cc's (6cc and can't remember the other one) and way different deck clearance (0.005 vs 0.040). The calculator allowed me to put in different gasket thickness and check compression. A great tool.

What cam have you chosen?

Look forward to the updates:smoke:
 

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Needs Chevy
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, it's all new this V8 journey. Learning a lot from books and posts.

I've opted for retrofit hydraulic roller lifters and a mild Comp Cam (Grind XR264HR-10, Adv Duration 264/270, Lift .487/.495). Essentially need to learn to drive the car initially and I'll swap out for something more powerful/aggressive next winter.

I've used a few online calculators but its all thought out figures rather than actual measurements right now. Once I've got the pistons in I can start to be accurate. Not sure of my head gasket thickness right now as away on work.

Might need to return the high volume pump as it's already been mentioned. I'm also going to rig up an Accusump unit once I've finished test fitting the engine in the chassis.


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Stroker
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Yeah man, a straight up V8 build thread is way overdue. :tup:

I am very interested in how the roller cam goes in :D

Carry on...
Jimbob
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah man, a straight up V8 build thread is way overdue. :tup:

I am very interested in how the roller cam goes in :D

Carry on...
Jimbob
Hope I'm not missing anything; I've got the thrust button, uprated larger valve springs, shorter push rods, retrofit camshaft and tie-bar lifter set. Not using a mechanical fuel pump so no issues there.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well if you want the higher presure spring for the std Meling pump remember I have 4 available.
I'll organise an exchange for a standard Melling pump on Monday. Can you PM me details to purchase one of the uprated springs you've got. Cheers.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After weeks of messing about and getting everything together I've made some decent progress of late.

Briefly:-

Flywheel was incorrectly machined and would not fit on the crank. Since been re-machined and slides on.

Flywheel bolts were too long and fouled the block. Cut these down and matched their weight.

Crank, rods and pistons all balanced by EDA.

Small ends honed out.

Fitted new standard main bearings and caps with ARP bolts, measured clearances and found within tolerance.

Checked end float and was also found within tolerance.

Fitted seal with outer sealant and greased contact surface as I doubt I'll get this run up for a few weeks. Laid crank in and torqued up main bolts.

KB pistons now have the Mahle rings fitted.







More to come 👍

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Hi mate, looking good.

Once you get the heads on I can lend you an adjustable pushrod to get your desired pushrod length. The tip of the roller rocker should roll over the centre part of the top of the valve. It's straight forward stuff. unless i've missed something and you've already sorted it? Either way it's good to check this.
 

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richard rawlplug
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8,115 Posts
Good shout on using eda....sorted me out ...Ken Ben and Dennis are world class.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi mate, looking good.

Once you get the heads on I can lend you an adjustable pushrod to get your desired pushrod length. The tip of the roller rocker should roll over the centre part of the top of the valve. It's straight forward stuff. unless i've missed something and you've already sorted it? Either way it's good to check this.
Cheers and thanks for the kind offer.

I've procured a conversion kit which has the required size pushrods included. That said, nothing so far has been straightforward so I may just get back in touch should I find they aren't right!

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No problem. The pushrod length changes depending on deck height of the block and whether the head has been skimmed, as well as valve train components. Always check it regardless, I'm roughly at the same stage you're at so you've inspired me to get my ass into gear, get the cam in and mock a head up:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good stuff, finding the motivation has been difficult given the experience so far. Glad it's inspired you!

I've got new AFR heads to fit and the deck hasn't been touched. However, I'll definitely be measuring and double checking everything.

My mock up to get me started looked like this:



See how far I get tomorrow 🤔

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