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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks guys. Another challenge is to sort the steering. I've jacked the front end so much I get horrendous bump steer. Moving the rack down is a big job, so I will try to bring the steering arms out of the wheel and put the track rods above instead of below them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Fitted new rear springs with 50% higher rate to stop the body rubbing on the slicks at launch. Went to Shakey on Sunday and , along with a lot of other people , ran a PB! This time 12.09/112 with 1.75 60ft. Beginning to tune the nut holding the steering wheel......:shake: Also saw some of Peter Donaldson's youtube clips from Gary's picnic - the front wheels DO leave the ground on launch! (though not like a certain MGBGT...)
 

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enjoyed watching the midget sunday , as we are building an mgb powered 1934 austin pickup , wish i had the dosh to make the 1800 go like that !!!! unless anyone has any cheap tricks ! nice car mate .
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Many thanks. You could fit a mild turbo to the B series,using most of the kit from a metro turbo but new exhaust manifold. Also consider O series turbo from Maestro or Montego turbo.
 

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no problem , love seeing brit cars put through there paces ! Yes i actually brought a small turbo cant remember what it is without looking but have no idea how to set it up , it was going to be a future plan any help or drawings would be great , but i still want to se the twin su,s as i like the look of them , cheers Shane .
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Go on a website called turbominis for everything related to turbo A series - will give you all you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well, long time since I updated this. To cut a long story short I've been struggling with traction issues for the last 18 months, finally proved to be a slipping clutch :shake::wanker: When I did the calculations, I was trying to put 260 ft.lbf through a clutch rated at 130. Hmm. So I fitted a 6 paddle cerometallic plate rated at 310 ft.lbf. Part of the problem is that I need to slip the clutch off the line to build boost, otherwise it just bogs. The new clutch promptly destroyed the original release mechanism, so I had to re-engineer a hydraulic release. I use a modified long shaft type 9 box, and the flywheel and housing are non- standard, and SMALL, but it seems to work. on the way I fitted my 8'' slicks onto 8'' wheels instead of the 7'' previous ones. This seems to have improved grip no end, I assume the narrower wheel was causing the slick to crown and reduce contact patch on such a light car. In pursuit of grip I also fitted a home made blade type rear ARB. This seems to reduce body roll of the line so should help traction. Finally I had the plate type LSD rebuilt with bigger plates and more preload. Now clonks and bangs going round corners if you forget to declutch. Anyway hopefully all this will result in some better times at the strip, and to reduce the stress levels I've fitted an A frame to flat tow it there, even though it's still street legal.
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/#
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well, long time since I updated this. To cut a long story short I've been struggling with traction issues for the last 18 months, finally proved to be a slipping clutch :shake::wanker: When I did the calculations, I was trying to put 260 ft.lbf through a clutch rated at 130. Hmm. So I fitted a 6 paddle cerometallic plate rated at 310 ft.lbf. Part of the problem is that I need to slip the clutch off the line to build boost, otherwise it just bogs. The new clutch promptly destroyed the original release mechanism, so I had to re-engineer a hydraulic release. I use a modified long shaft type 9 box, and the flywheel and housing are non- standard, and SMALL, but it seems to work. on the way I fitted my 8'' slicks onto 8'' wheels instead of the 7'' previous ones. This seems to have improved grip no end, I assume the narrower wheel was causing the slick to crown and reduce contact patch on such a light car. In pursuit of grip I also fitted a home made blade type rear ARB. This seems to reduce body roll of the line so should help traction. Finally I had the plate type LSD rebuilt with bigger plates and more preload. Now clonks and bangs going round corners if you forget to declutch. Anyway hopefully all this will result in some better times at the strip, and to reduce the stress levels I've fitted an A frame to flat tow it there, even though it's still street legal.
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/#http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/#
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/#http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/#
 

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How about a little squirt of nitrous to help build the boost on the line like the Jap guys do?

Perry is going to start getting twitchy with the times you're putting in :D
 

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Discussion Starter #36
That's an interesting idea, it currently just operates on a WOT switch. Hmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Only finished the changes at the end of last year Phil, so April will be the first chance to run in anger. (As opposed to frightening the locals on the bypass��)
 

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richard rawlplug
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love it...:tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Went to Shakey yesterday and did a few runs. after being traction/clutch limited for years I now find I need more power! The wider wheels plant the slicks so no wheelspin off the line and the clutch just bites, so slow 60ft. I have to rethink/relearn the whole launch procedure. Good

news is that the times from half track onwards are as good as I've ever done, helped by this latest mod. It's an airdam made from scrap ally held on with rivnuts and dzuz fasteners, removable for road use and towing, total cost £10.:shake:
 
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