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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Er no Phil, but my friend who stole the yellow vinyl is going to try and steal some more in the right shade of yellow....
Robert, if I do as you suggest the car just bogs. My present idea is to hold it on the line with the line lock, slip the clutch to build a bit of boost then side step the clutch and release the line lock, flooring the throttle at the same time. All this whilst waving to the crowd....:D
 

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with the clutch and slicks you're dead hooking but haven't got the torque to use it.

Wheel spin equals wheel speed, I'd reduce rear traction with increased tyre pressure to allow some wheelspin and get the engine up into it's power band and off the line. Either that or looking at some sort of slider clutch set up where it gradually locks up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Sorry Robert I misunderstood. Yes I would have to fit a rev limiter, this old MJ setup doesn't have one.
WB thanks for that, I have raised the tyre pressures a bit, now 12psi on 13x8 M/T drag slicks, not sure how far I can go up. The clutch idea is interesting, a friend is using a brake bias valve in the clutch line then bypassing it with a line lock once the car is rolling.
 

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I ran a slingshot with a Rover that made similar power. The fastest run it made was at a cold Fireworks meet at the pod at night and the reason for it is because it span. Before then, it would hook and wheelie but affect the ET as it had 10in slicks. It was over tyre'd, could easily have ran on 8in but couldn't get the tyre height. All drag cars spin a certain amount, you won't see them blowing the tyre off, but dead hooking is to be avoided, especially with smaller engines and low torque.

The pressure will obviously reduce the contact patch further but you might just be able to go down to a 7in tyre at the same pressure or tune the suspension / damping to reduce rear squat.

Slider clutch set up would take some figuring out but also not really practical for a street driven car. You might just have to slip it manually off the line., like the real hero's did in the 60's, balancing wheelspin and clutch slip with the left foot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Yes I have the 4 bar set up to squat atm because of the previous poor grip. I can play with that and tyre pressure. So far I have tried to stay old school so no active electronics such as launch control and will continue to try to get my left and right feet talking to each other:shake:
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Thanks Phil, to explain further about the paint job, the air dam is in 3 parts for ease of removal/stowage as I cannot tow with it on. The fixings would rip up a paintjob each time they were fitted/removed so they are on bare aluminium.
 

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Thanks Phil, to explain further about the paint job, the air dam is in 3 parts for ease of removal/stowage as I cannot tow with it on. The fixings would rip up a paintjob each time they were fitted/removed so they are on bare aluminium.
Thanks Steve, I just thought the front end might look better with those Alloy strips in the same yellow and so less obvious, but it would be more difficult with it being removable.
 

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How about if you put a little circle of masking tape where the fixings go so you can paint/wrap it. then use those yellow number plate screw cup/cover things when fitting it to the car
 

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Just read through the last months updates and spotted your tyre pressures - with my drag Beetle I used a 6"slick but never any lower than 14 psi, usually closer to 17. It would 60ft in the 1.5's but still only matched your best 12.09... I'd try more air in the tyres!
 
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