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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much emulsified oil would you expect to have in a valve cover after only a month of daily running , bearing in mind I have only been doing about 5 miles each way most days.
I took the valve cover off to set the valves on my 3.3 Cresta engine today now everthing has settled down and was suprised that the top of the cover had a thick coating of emulsified oil, the engine oil is still clean I changed it 2 weeks ago but for the first couple of weeks I used 15/40 diesel multigrade to flush the engine out as it had been stood for a long time .
Could it be the 15/40 oil that caused it as its a detergent oil or just that its been so damp recently and the engine as hardly had chance to warm up, there are no other signs of the head gasket leaking , I am now using 20/50 and apart from a slight misfire midrange the car is now running great , no overheating , the spark plugs are clean and all the same colour .
 

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How much emulsified oil would you expect to have in a valve cover after only a month of daily running , bearing in mind I have only been doing about 5 miles each way most days.
I took the valve cover off to set the valves on my 3.3 Cresta engine today now everthing has settled down and was suprised that the top of the cover had a thick coating of emulsified oil, the engine oil is still clean I changed it 2 weeks ago but for the first couple of weeks I used 15/40 diesel multigrade to flush the engine out as it had been stood for a long time .
Could it be the 15/40 oil that caused it as its a detergent oil or just that its been so damp recently and the engine as hardly had chance to warm up, there are no other signs of the head gasket leaking , I am now using 20/50 and apart from a slight misfire midrange the car is now running great , no overheating , the spark plugs are clean and all the same colour .
Using a thermostat? - if not there may be your answer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi thanks for the reply , yes Iv`e got thermostat in and it seems to be working ok but as top of rad gets hot and water is circulating with no bubbles, could be worth replacing with a highter temp one , will investigate further .

Thanks Dave
 

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I had a similar problem with the old Merc, I was doing 8 miles twice a day to and from work. Whilst tinkering about with it one day I noticed emulsified oil in the oil filler cap, I took a rocker cover off and that had emulsified oil aswell.

That's when the old brain starts panicking, shit, head gasket? cracked something? etc etc...

There were no other signs of trouble anywhere. I changed the oil and filter, cleaned the crap out of the top of the engine and used it to and from work again. Within a week the emulsification started again, shit!

Whilst this was going on our company restructured and as a result my place of work was now 22 miles away instead of 8. I used the Merc for the first week thinking something may go wrong but to my relief the contrary happened! It turns out that the engine was not getting warm enough to dispell the condensation build up from not warming up for long enough.

This may not be your problem but the symptoms sound identical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the replies, The late 3.3 engine I have in now only has 1 breather on the valve cover that goes into the air filter , the old 2.6 had 1 on the valve cover that went into the inlet manifold and 1 on the side plate on the block.
When I changed the engine I used the 2.6 water pump and thermostat (a recent new one ) but the 3.3 runs cooler on the temp gauge for some reason, I`me hoping this is what the proplem is,
going to investigate today as soon as it stops raining , will also restrict the air flow on the rad as suggested.
 

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The science (if thats the right word?) of engine cooling is having the water flow fast enough to circulate efficiently through the engine, yet flow though the radiator slow enough to maximise cooling effect of air passing through the radiator. I have had two 3.3 PB Crestas in the dim and distant past and people think that the 3.3 engine is simply a larger version of the 2.6. I think 3.3 is a bit more than just that - wondering if the 2.6 water pump is the same as used on the 2.6 and whether this may be worth looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Roscobbc, yes your right on the Cresta engines the 3.3 has a bigger block than the 2.6 , the engine I have put in mine is a 3.3 out of a late FE ventora which had a viscous fan with a smaller pulley, it leaked when I put the engine in thats why I changed for the 2.6 pump.
I have another pump that came off a PC 3.3 with fixed fan , might be worth taking the backplate off and comparing the impeller sizes, It is definitely running cooler with the 3.3 in, the thermostat is working but when it is open and the coolant is flowing the temp gauge only goes up to 110 degrees.
 

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The usual complaint is overheating which can be linked with previous owners not using anti-freeze and long term corrosion/erosion/cavitation actually reducing size of blades on water pump impeller reducing water flow.
 

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Could you explain, using the deisel multigrade oil to flush out the engine? Why would this flush anything? If its the detergent thing, which most oils are, this wont flush out the old tar n stuff out of the engine. Not from what Ive seen. The detergent in the oil wil not brake down old sludge, any better than a non detergent oil, this is not what the detergent is ther for. Run the proper oil for the engine.
When you say the temp when the thermostat opens is 110 Is that farenhieght (sp) ? what stat is it ment to have ? I spec somwhere 160-180F Some checking is in order. One is to establish the guage is correct, the other to get the thermostst opening temp sorted. ANd to check that the stat is seated properly wher it should be. I had a Transit engine that wouldnt come up to temperature, the stat tested right, but on close inspection the area wher the lip of the stat sits in the water neck had a bit corroded off it. Filled this gap with JB weld, reseated the stat properly, engine comes up to temp properly.
Are you saying the older 2.6 had a pcv setup? sounds like it, with the pipe into the manifold. But the later 3.3 hasnt? sounds odd to me. I'd a thunk it the other way round. A pcv setup will also help in getting rid of the emulsified oil, by pulling fresh air through and controling the condensation.
Martin.
 

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This is a common problem on older cars with massive fixed fans. Irrespective of the engine temperature there is cold air howling over the rocker cover , its only when the stats open and the rad is also hot will the fan start to pull warm air over the engine. I have seen small tin shields made up in front of the rocker covers that seem effective as are rocker cover blankets.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi scooder The 3.3 engine had been stood for many years, it was pretty clean inside the only reason I used the 15/40 oil is that I had a quantity FOC so just used it for the initial run in case there was some crap in there, I could then dump it change the filter and use the correct 20/50.
With the old 2.6 the temp gauge/sender/thermostat worked fine it would run at 150-180 f the thermostat should be 82-88 c = 150-190 f but now it runs cooler with these units fitted to the 3.3 the temp gauge only shows 110 and the top of the rad is not as hot when the thermostat is open + the heater is not as good.
The old 2.6 had a valve on the inlet manifold / the pipe from the top of the valve cover went into it + there was a filter breather on the engine side plate, the 3.3 only has a pipe from the valve cover that goes to the air filter pan ( exits to the inside of the element ) there is another outlet from this pipe that is blanked off, I take that it draws moisture and fumes on vacume.
3.3 is out of a late FE ventora with the large flat air cleaner it has no pcv valve unless it is missing I haven`t got a diagram on pipe work.

Cheers

Dave
 

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Something fishy going on with the thermostate I feel. If the temp only gets to 110, the thermostat should be closed, and the rad top cold. You say the rad top gets warm, does it (the rad top) start to warm up fairly soon after the engine is started? I ask as it sounds like water is getting past the thermostat that should not be open yet. Is there a differance on the 2.6 thermostat housing or warter pump to the 3.3? Maybe there is some kind of bypass that with the mix of components isnt flowing the rout it should? or like I said is the stat sitting properly in the housing and fitting tight to where it should?
With the breathing (crank case venting) Often times, the pipe that goes from the crank case (rocker box or valve cover or some such) to the air cleaner is the IN to the crank case. the PCV is the out of the crank case then into the inlet manifold. This is so the air drawn through the crank case is filtered (via the air cleaner in your case, often the in is a filtered oil filler cap) the air goes through, picking up the condensation and stuff and things, then its drawn through the pcv valve and into the inlet and burned in the cylinders. The pcv valve meters the amount of air drawn through acording to vacuum in the inlet manifold.
I'v not got much experiance with the other brand of cars, but there must be a breather routing diagram out there, owners club or such like. I feel its quite important to get the venting sorted, theres nothing to loose but much to gain by having it working properly.
You need to deal with the water side of things first, get the temp up. This will help get rid of the rice pudding in the rockerbox. A functioning pcv will deal with the rest of it.
Hope this helps.
Martin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi scooder, The thermostat has been working but I feel its been opening too early, the top of the rad is cold untill the engine warms then when the stat opens the hot water flows as it should but too cool as you can put your finger in the top of the rad.
I took the stat out last night to test it and compare it to a spare of the same temp 88 deg c, hung both in a pan of water, the 1 out of the car opened a long time before the spare, that opened before boiling.
I put the spare stat in last night and drove a short distance it pressurised and dumped loads of cold coolant so I got it back home refilled it just in case it was air locked, drove to work this morning (5 miles) the temp gauge hardly moved, the heater was blowing warm but when I pulled up it was pissing out coolant and the system was pressurised.
Seems at the moment I have 2 stats that are`nt working properly 1 opening too early and the other too late, going to get a new stat and also test the temp in the rad when the stat is open , also going to double check the water pumps/stat housings the 2.6 and the 3.3 look and fit the same, there could be a difference with the impellers but I would`nt think so.
Been trying to find a breather diagram for the late engine as when I got it the air filter pan was missing so there could also be something else missing , I just bought
a correct air filter pan and the pipe that comes from the valve cover was shaped and the same size/length to fit on to the filter .
Looks like Im`e going to be busy at the weekend , keep you updated.
Cheers
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update well i`me finally getting somewhere , got a new stat and high temp thermometer today, 1st tested the coolant temp in the top of the rad with stat open (old stat ) temp showed 50 deg/c on thermometer and about 110 f on temp gauge.
So took the stat out and tested it in a pan of water along with the spare and the new stat I bought/ the old stat opened at 60, the spare and the new one opened at 88 (bang on ), I then fitted the new one into the car, refilled with coolant run it up on the drive had a problem with air locks at first then it settled down, I made a makeshift header tank out of a 4 ltr milk carton and put the overflow pipe from the rad into it so I could see the amount of coolant loss.
I went out for a test drive did 5 miles then stopped , the temp gauge was higher than before (about 150 f ) the top of the rad was very hot to touch and the bottom of the rad was warm, drove a further 10 miles then checked again / all ok but about 1 ltr of hot coolant in the carton but I had been up a very long steep hill + been booting it as well.
Drove back home with no probs the coolant stayed the same level in the carton , carefully took the cap off tiny bit of pressure ( its only a 4lb cap standard fitting for a Cresta ) then tested the temp in the top of the rad it showed 85 deg c .
Next took a good look at the breather pipe, from the valve cover its a single pipe that splits into a Y the top of the Y goes to the air filter pan (to the inside of the element area ) the lower part of the Y is smaller in dia and was blanked off with a bolt shoved in but was at the same angle as a blanked off small vacuum pipe on the inlet manifold.
I basically pulled out the blanks run a piece of small bore fuel line from the lower part of the Y to the vacuum pipe , although there is no pcv valve it is now drawing the crankcase gases etc + clean air from the air filter into the intake manifold instead of the snot being drawn into the air filter.
Just got to monitor it now (fingers crossed )

Thank you guys for the replies and advice.

Cheers

Dave.
 
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