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make sure the gearbox is facing the back.
Seriously though, the more you can line it up with the back axle the better......prop shaft will be nice and straight. if that makes sense
 

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make sure the gearbox is facing the back.
Seriously though, the more you can line it up with the back axle the better......prop shaft will be nice and straight. if that makes sense
what if the diffs offset from centre.

dali what sort of info do you want.the more info you give,the more folks can help.

if you put no info ,youre get no info back.

bit more involved than just aiming the engine towards the axle if you want it to function properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just basically the problems were gonna come up against. We did this about 40 years ago, and brain gone a bit dead since! I will get back ASAP, with a fuller version of what we doing and just really looking for more advice on probs, best way to go about it. Thanks so far for your input, just bear with me till I can get a better post on please, ta
 

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Engine central to bay NOT axle , as Nobody says most pinions are offset . You'll need to jiggle it around so exhaust outlets clear the steering box and then normally a double 90' section of exhaust to clear cross steering . If running original rad you'll need to use P6 water pump and front pulley . If they're not available you'll need to modify the rad to fit further into the front panel to gain clearance.

No need to cut bulkhead but tunnel may need modifying . From memory you can get round modifying the tunnel by altering the sump shape instead to allow it to sit slightly lower. However that was with an auto on the last one I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for that. Having a measure/ look around, lifted engine in etc, think as you say I'm going to have probs with sump. No doubt a few more when I get a bit further into it.
 

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When i put a rover and 5 speed in my MK3 many years ago i had to have a new sump made with the drop at the front if i remember correctly,the gearbox dropped onto the original crossmember,i levelled the engine and made some mounts directly off the chassis rails.i cut out and remade a removable gearbox tunnel to allow access to the bell housing bolts.(this was before EU interference GRRR!! HAHA)i used a sherpa gear lever mechanism which placed the gear lever just in front of the bench seat.the radiator was an sd1 unit was placed in front of the front panel behind the grille.i used P6 centre drop exhaust manifolds the right hand one needed clearencing to clear the steering box.i don't think the MK2 engine bay is that different to the MK3,i stand to be corrected,but i hope this might help.Cheers Martin
 

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I had to modify the sump on mine as Kev said no need to alter bulkhead I had to alter tunnel to fit autobox used Mk2 gearbox crossmember with rover bobin mount bracket welded on top, mk3 diff new prop will have to be made, I used p6 front on the engine and moved rad forward to get more room, engine mounts from chassis rails to rover rubbers
 
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