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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had problems with a 289 for the last 2 yrs. so far changed fuel pump to electric and back to manual. Added electronic ignition. Changed the carb and fuel filter. Changed coils and leads. The problem is that sometimes it's a pig to start. Sounds like it wants to catch but won't. Other times it starts and runs (very well) and then just cuts out and won't restart.

It doesn't cough and splutter to a stop it's almost like the ignition has been turned off. It tries to catch but won't. It's almost like the spark is to weak?

If that makes sense? I don't really understand tricity!! I'm more of a bit of a bit it with a hammer man.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No it's not heat. Once it's cooled down it's still difficult to start. Once started it's ok. It did have points and condenser but I changed it to an accuspark electronic ignition kit.
 

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sounds like the points or condensor,but since you have changed them,cant be that,sounds electrical.make sure the coil wires are tight and insulated.also the connections to the starter solnoid.mark
 

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Bad earth.
Renew and double earths. One from battery to chassis. One from Battery to block.
Eliminate the simple stuff bfore diving in to the complex.
 

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add a new temporary ignition live from the battery (fused of course) to a switch then to the coil. if it's ok with that there's an intermittent break in the coil feed.
 

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normally with electronic dizzy a full 12v is required
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Coil isn't getting hot and I have tried 2 coils and it made no difference. I think the earths are ok but easy to double them up and renew them so will try that. I don't understand the resistor wire ???
I should be getting 12v from the coil?
 

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Coil isn't getting hot and I have tried 2 coils and it made no difference. I think the earths are ok but easy to double them up and renew them so will try that. I don't understand the resistor wire ???
I should be getting 12v from the coil?
ballast resistor or resistor wire was used to drop voltage from ignition switch to coil to prevent burning points, I had to change the wire on mine when I fitted MSD to achieve 12v. The Accuspark has specific requirements regarding coil impedance, non compliance could damage unit/invalidate warranty. AccuSpark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nope. It's a 62 fairlane. The car came out of the factory with a 260 but came across from the us with a 289 in. There were no numbers anywhere on it apart from the timing cover which said it was an early 1962 289. Which would make it one of the first, if the timing cover was original. The block has a small metal tag saying it had been rebuilt in 95 and had been over bored.
 

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i would take a guess and say the fault lies in the pink resistor wire which is connected to ign switch goes to connector block under dash where it changes color on the other side of the connecter to a red wire the a tracer color either blue/green that wire goes to coil you should have 12v at this wire when you switch on ign.
If you dont have 12v when you switch on ign the resistor wire is blown just replace it with standard wire.
 

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Nope. It's a 62 fairlane. The car came out of the factory with a 260 but came across from the us with a 289 in. There were no numbers anywhere on it apart from the timing cover which said it was an early 1962 289. Which would make it one of the first, if the timing cover was original. The block has a small metal tag saying it had been rebuilt in 95 and had been over bored.
Do you know Baz in Ipswich? he has 63 failane with Aussie 289
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just a thought, if it's the ignition wire I can understand it being a pig to start but once running would it make it cut out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Earth straps all cleaned, replaced or renewed. No difference. Ran a new wire from ignition to starter solenoid. Nothing. Replaced wire between solenoid and coil. Nothing. I don't have a volt meter so can't check anything. Would starter solenoid be giving 9v to the coil. If so I need 12v to start it. Would running a new wire from the ignition direct to the coil work ? That way ignition wire feeds solenoid and coil when cranking but solo kid supplies coil when running? Does that make sense or am I being an idiot???
 
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