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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right then, before I start I'd like to say that I am not a painter, or a bodywork expert or a restorer.......I'm a plumber and I know feck all about cars.
This thread is me showing you how I painted my car. If I tell you to do it a certain way and its wrong then please feel free to advise. If you slag off what I do I will say 'I'm a plumber' and not give a shit.
With all that said, I hope this helps/encourages anyone thinking of having a go. But remember, it's your car, and if you fuck it up it's not mu fault :)

Let us begin.
After all the usual filling and rubbing down I applied a couple of coats of primer with a little gloss roller (sponge). This is the primer I used. get yourself plenty of spare rollers as this stuff eats them. The second it starts to sag and disintegrate, chuck it.




Next step is to flat it off. There is no need to go mad with 1200 grade paper. A light rub with some 400 to get rid of the gritty feel and smooth it off a bit. When you've done that then clean with a clean cloth and some thinners (put the thinners on the cloth, don't pour in on the car). Clean off with a tack cloth.
 

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Welding Guru
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792 Posts
Thats the brownest plumbers hand i have ever seen. you must be just doing boiler swaps and having nice holidays or hanging your arm out of the window on the way to jobs!
Just kidding. i took my fairlane down to 180 grit full bare metal and then bit the bullet and put it into the hands of the experts. It hurt me to do so as i had done everything else myself. but i am really glad i did. the painter is a mate of mine and he said i save myself a fortune by doing all the bare metal work.
good luck, Brendon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Step 2.
The paint I'm using is Rustoleum Kombicolor. Its a bit like Hammerite smooth finish, but available in loads of colours.
I bought some chap measuring jugs for 37p each (saves cleaning them). Mix 80% to 20% thinners and stir really well. Note the masking tape on the jug with paint mark and thinners mark...it makes it a lot easier to see what you're doing. You will only need about a third of this amount for a four piece bonnet (I mixed this for doing a lot more)


Now is the time to apply the paint.
Get your roller and tray (clean the tray....no point in cleaning your bodywork with a tack cloth if you've got shit and dust in the tray) pour some paint in and with a hair dryer in one hand set on cold and the roller in the other you can now start applying the paint. Don't try and roll too much on as all you will do is cause runs.


Make sure you keep the paint in the jug stirred as it will separate. And don't panic, it will look shit to start with. It's not until you put a couple of coats on that it will start to take shape


When that coat goes off you can LIGHTLY flatten. All you are doing is getting rid of the grit feel again and rubbing out the runs you put it because you took no notice of what I said earlier. There are no prizes for who can rub the most paint off their car.
Same MO as before. Clean with thinners and a tack clothe. Incidently, I left it 24 hours between coats, but believe you can re-coat in 6 hours.
A few coats later and it starts looking covered
 

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fair play for having the time to writing this and the possibility of getting shot down in a ball of flames, thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You will need a good 5 coats.....I only put on 3 and rubbed through a few times on final buff. Oddly enough I quite like the paint being thin in places as it makes it look like the early stages of patina. This said though, I might re-paint it one day. Stick to at least 5 coats as this will give you more scope to flatten at the end.

Now it's time to get rid of the orange peel....of which there will be plenty.
I used a 400 wet and dry to start with and finished off with a 1000. For those who know less than me, keeping the surface during flatting stops the paper clogging up.
The flatter you get your paint at this stage, the better finish you will get.

Next step is to get you newly acquired buffer and some compound. this is my ebay bargain and rubbing compound I out from the supernats


The mop/pad I've used looks like a towel.......don't care if it was the right one or not. It worked.
Spray some water on the buffing mop and squeeze a decent amount of compound on it......and off you go. Please remember to let the buffer do the work.....they have been designed by someone very clever who worked out how fast they should spin and vibrate, and how much they should weigh. They were not designed to have a great big fat gorilla leaning on them.......
After getting bored with buffing (which wasn't long) I decided to squeeze some compound on on a cloth and give it a good going over by hand.
last thing is to buff the residue off with the fluffy pad


And its now ready for some wax :)


That's about it from me. But remember, lots of coats so you don't rub through like I did, and the more you flat it, the better it will look.
One last thing......if you find a shit bit, or scratch it, or rub through....don't worry, because you saved some paint in a jam jar for touch ups :)


I'll post a pic of the whole car over the weekend.

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thats the brownest plumbers hand i have ever seen. you must be just doing boiler swaps and having nice holidays or hanging your arm out of the window on the way to jobs!
Just kidding. i took my fairlane down to 180 grit full bare metal and then bit the bullet and put it into the hands of the experts. It hurt me to do so as i had done everything else myself. but i am really glad i did. the painter is a mate of mine and he said i save myself a fortune by doing all the bare metal work.
good luck, Brendon.
I do spend a lot of time with my arm out of the window.
The reason I hand painted was because like you I've done everything else myself and wanted to say that I painted it. Going to give trimming a go next. Also, a spray job would be about £3k and this cost me £150
 

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Nice write up - a lot of folk laugh at hand painting a car, looks like you got a pretty good finish there... here's one I prepared earlier... Brushes rather than rollers but a similar approach, lots of buffing and it came up like glass and still looked good when I saw it many years after we'd parted company.

 

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Woodchipper Extraordinair
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fair play for having a go if I may offer a bit of advice on the flatting part of the job, when flatting before polish, 400 is way to coarse to be using especially when you have very little material to work with, i would recommend 1000 at the coarsest to use before finshing with 1500 or 2000 before polishing with a mop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm going to stick my neck out here and say it doesn't matter what you flat it with........it just makes it harder to buff
 
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