Rods 'n' Sods - UK Hot Rod & Street Rod Forums banner

61 - 80 of 86 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
With regard to the primer: If I get some from local auto supplier, what should I ask for? to get one that is going to be compatible with rustoleum?

Or doesn't it matter?

Thanks.
It shouldn't matter what primer you use as rustoleum isn't cellulose based so wont wreck what's underneath it. I use etch primer in spray cans......seems to stick better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Great thread, when i was plumbing i always used to paint my vans with a brush, and roller. I used to use agricultural tractor paint, Ford Tractor Blue mostly, thinned down with white spirit. I found it helped if i tried to get the painting done on a warm day too, and warm the paint up a bit aswell! They weren't perfect, but they looked ok from 10 foot away! Just a bit of time and effort... I might have to give my current van a going over, it's starting to look a little scruffy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Now I have never tried it but I have heard Dulux gloss thinned with petrol gives an awesome hard wearing shiny finish , I have used sadalin synthetic enamel years ago and that was great budging paint , you could basically wash the car mask it up and spray it on ,we once bought a fiat 126 that had holes in the body bodged em with fiberglass filler, re sprayed the car and in went through the auctions at bawtry the same night .
 

·
Rekindled Dream
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Remind me to never buy a car from you. :incheek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,698 Posts


This looks ok from a distance, but up close you can still see brush marks (I bought rollers, but by the time I'd done the 'edges' I carried on with the brush), what would be the best way to remove the brush marks, bearing in mind most of it is not flat...???

Not sure that I'm too bothered, but I may get bored in the coming cold dark months...

p.s. It's Aldi satin cote, water based paint (£35 all in, including brushes and rollers, and the black rust proof paint)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
1200 wet and dry and some cutting/buffing paste. I'd paint a spare bit of metal first and see how it buffs before you try it on the car. Looks good Guy :tup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,698 Posts
Cheers Russ, if I was to roller over the top of the brushed on stuff, do you think that might smooth it out a bit??

Don't forget it's satin, not sure about the buffing bit...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The problem with water based paint is it dries too quick for brush marks to smooth out naturally. You could flat it down and spray it with one of them cheap electric jobbies designed for emulsion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,698 Posts
I think that might have been my problem, I painted it outside in the sun in Aug/Sept was quite warm, by the time I'd done round the whole car it was dry where I'd started...

Might just leave it as it is, it is afterall £35 pounds worth of paintjob...!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
I have found this thread very interesting and very informative and was looking at using silver grey rustoleum to paint the silver grey falcon,however I have recently been into Aldi(or it might have been lidl,I cant tell them apart)and they are selling rattle cans of metal protection paint at £2.99 which supposedly cover 1.5 m2 and they do it in silver grey(a few shades lighter than the falcon)So I very quickly prepped my rocker cover and gave it a couple of coats taking away the dodgy prep it was not bad so I may now be heading out to the local aldis and buy up their stock of silver grey
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Late 70's early 80's me and a couple of mates painted several cars with a brush and tekaloid coach enamel, I particularly remember a blue coloured mini that we painted on what seemed the hottest day of the year, in a tiny lock up with a tin roof and the garage doors shut to keep out the dust, a dampened down concrete floor , the conditions were ideal the paint was thin due to the heat and dried off quickly, no brushmarks whatsoever. I seem to remember that the car was for a mate's girlfriend and the relationship ended soon after.
 

·
Keep on Trucking...
Joined
·
535 Posts
Excellent. Never considered hand painting a car. Always been conditioned to spray only. I can see this being alot easier in alot of ways..and if it flattens and polishes the same then whats the difference! Hats off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Very interesting reading - thanks to the OP and everyone else who's contributed.

Can I please ask a couple of questions - firstly, can one over-paint a factory paint job with this stuff, or would you need to go back to bare metal? I've no idea how to identify if a car has been originally painted with 2-pack or cellulose.

Secondly, how do you tackle buffing places like a and b-pillars? I understand using one of those power mops on flat surfaces like bonnets and roofs, but would you need to do skinny bits by hand?

And lastly, can this hand-paint be over-painted with spray, if a change was wanted down the line, or again would bare-metalling be required?

Thanks
 
61 - 80 of 86 Posts
Top