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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I have now got the JAG IRS into my 59 Impala chassis (X shape chassis) but I am struggling with the correct position of the tie/radius rods onto the chassis and was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers, If there is anyone in or near Norwich maybe a visit could be arranged? The main problem is to do with angles and mounting positions between the IRS and my 59 chassis.
Cheers
Mick
 

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Hope i'm not telling you how to suck eggs :incheek:
the radius rods need to end their front at a line drawn through the inner pivot,
the front also the same height as the pivot if poss,
bars the longer the better,
you can either go with a bar with a bend and use a bush at the lower arm and a rose joint at the front or as i have done a straight bar with a rose joint at the arm and bush at the front,
This is mine setting the front brackets at that cross over point........
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The problem I have is the chassis shape, it does not have side rails like most but pinches into the middle, see picture of one of the internet
 

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Shouldn't be to much of a problem as the front needs to be fairly narrow anyway, a small cross member under that pinch should be fine.
 

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Basically the idea behind that front locating bar is to make the bottom wishbone into a triangular bottom arm . Mine were only around 12 inches long ( about half the length of Pauls by the look of it ) and functioned perfectly .

The anti climb bars are the most important bars and the angles need to be accurate. A full plate bottom mount together with front and rear lower diff straps to tie the bottom inner pivot arms to the diff are very worthwhile as well.

You also have to set toe in and caster to make the most of the set up.
 

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iv wondered about this before as iv read loads of time the bars need to be as long as poss and closer together at the front mounting point - which is almost exactly the opposite of how they are when fitted to a jag, the bars are short and go almost straight forward :beuj:

if fitting them 'forward' wont work couldnt they be fitted going backwards towards the rear ??????
 

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The bars are long and go straight forward in a standard Jag application as they secure the Jag cage not the axle . Once you pull a IRS out of the cage a whole different set of rules apply.

What happens is peoples mates tell them " you need to ..." with no idea of why just info they've gleaned alongg the way . Just like different things apply to beam axles dependent on whether beam or tube and the type of bushings used.
 

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sorry for hijacking your thread Mick but while we're all here :D

Kev, i see what your saying re info just being passed along without knowing the details as to why, but........ what difference does it make weather the axle is still in the cage or not ?????

heres a couple of hastily found google pics....

E- type



and some ole later jag...



other than tying the lower pivots together, locating the shocks and of course, making it all fit into a jag i cant see what the cage is doing that can make such a difference to the r-rods/arms if its removed ???????? if you know what i mean :beuj:
 

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The cage and lower arms are all rubber bushed . The lower arms have great BIG bushes as geometrically they are in the wrong place ,just like Cortina void bushes. So basically any bind is taken up by the bushes and teh cage is free to wriggle as it likes

Once you take it out of the cage , bolt the topdiff mounts solidly to a crossmember and do away with the big rubber bushes the geometry needs to be right. If it's incorrect it loads up the lower fulcrum bearings and wipes them out in short order.

Like much rodding stuff the inadequacies of many rodding designs is hidden by low mileages.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Once you take it out of the cage , bolt the topdiff mounts solidly to a crossmember and do away with the big rubber bushes the geometry needs to be right. If it's incorrect it loads up the lower fulcrum bearings and wipes them out in short order.

Like much rodding stuff the inadequacies of many rodding designs is hidden by low mileages.:D
Ahh, ok then I have mounted mine on a bushed mount like this one:

Will that make any difference? I am trying to keep the underside clean and not have and ground clearance problems, I will take some pictures soon once I can get a reader for the camera card
 

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The urethanes will provide a degree of insulation and movement but no where near as much as the rubber mounted cage.
Go with the shorter bottom arm and it pivoting on a line drawn forward from the lower inner arm mount. Don't forget the anti climb bars, Wisbech do a nice kit with front tie bar etc that places it all where it needs to be and you just have to make the mounts from the rail out.

The anti climb bars are especially important on a urethane mounted diff.
 

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Hi have just overcome the same problem, in a nutshell you need to extend the line of the lower arm pivot point on the diff, the link can be anywhere on this line, to do this i took the nut off the pivot shaft and slid a 20mm solid bar with a hole up the end over it, i live in acle so not too far away. hope this helps
 

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There are some who say that if the diff is solid mounted they are not needed at all unless you are running big horse power or a heavy body. My T doesn't have the radius rods but does have the anti climb straps.
FadT hasn't fitted them to his T either and swears they are not necessary on a light rod like his, Nick Butler only fitted them to Andromeda because of the sheer power and if I'm not mistaken I don't think that the front mounts on it are in line with the lower diff section due to not enough room. The most important bit is the anti climb straps.
As an aside to make the radius rods "stiffer" jaguar just put the front bush in the same housing but instead of having the cut outs in the rubber bush front and rear they turned it by 90 degrees so that there was a greater proportion of rubber to move before any give (all xjs's were done this way).
 

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Hi I am in the middle of relocating my tie rods too, these were fitted by the previous owner directly forwards , this is no good as they then follow an ark when lifted up and down and because the swing arm travels directly up and down this causes big binding problems and will break expensive stuff!
Kev is (as usual) correct, the location is very important. I even tried without the tie rods too, Mmmm I would not recommend this , as a very snakey two laner on the motorway the other weekend left me and the better, very white . Nige
Still having 'fun' then Nige ? ;)
 

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Just found this pic that might answer that :tup:

Never thought about iy but most rods area bit short at the back. Bushes may need to be changed as the rotational load is going the other way so joints will be in tension as opposed to compression.

EDIT .Without spending ages looking at it ( cos it's only a theoretical question at the mo ) I'm guessing ttha it will do weird things to the tyre hook up and launching.
 
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