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I like it, looking good
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Nice work Ian. Incidentally I use a 105e axle in the Super Sprite V8 and it copes well with RV8 power so you should be fine.
Funny things Anglia axles, I know of people breaking them with small engines. I think 5k launches, sticky tires and 3.7 gears will break almost anything, I might invest in a LSD once the thing is on the road, I have Never broken an axle, smashed a few boxes, but never an axle, then saying that, a friend brought round a Mk1 cortina estate, with an english axle, a very tired 3.5RV8, smashed the spiders within 10ft of my house just on a normal pull away
 

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i've broken lots of english axle planet gears ian with engines from crossflow's to essex v6's. weld them up and the halfshafts break next, it was like going round in circles. an lsd for the english axle is not expensive nowadays (relatively speaking) and will help it last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Its been a while, its not that I havent been working on it its meant I have been getting time at work to get time to get on the mill to make bits and pieces,
A35 front suspension mods are without a doubt one of the hardest I have tried to do, everything bites back, to get the van with less than 6" of ground clearance is nigh on impossible without the suspension bottoming out somewhere on something, clearance something and it fouls somewhere else, try to get stability in the kingpin and it starts to get expensive, :( so I have bitten the bullet to try and get the van sitting how I want,
One of the problems I have had was the wheels fouling the top of the arch and virtually no availability to adjust the camber to where I would like, especially as the car ran originally on crossplys which don't tend to need camber like radials do. SO-------------------
PLAYTIME!!!!!!
as mentioned before the lever arms are a bit unstable, so, in my wisdom I have bought a telescopic conversion kit, which replaces the lever arm with a fabricated rocker arm and a telescopic that mounts on the side of the suspension.





theses are good but don't offer much, in any method of camber adjustment, so there were obtained slider plates which allows the fitment of MGB shocks to the A35 and a modicum of adjustment BUT dosent allow me to fit my new suspension arms as the bolt pattern is different between Mgb and A35 shocks.
these plate are fabbed and allow fro 25mm adjustment of camber adjustment!!!!!!!!!! at the top of the wheel it may even multiply to 45mm of adjustment????


Time to make some alloy adapters so the slider plates will fit the A35 bits

Now this is all very good but, as I have raised the top Aarm fulcrum pivot point by 30mm it does alter the angles between the top and bottom wishbone so they sort of point towards each other, SO by raising the lower wishbone outer pivot point, all can be adjusted back into the realms of sensibility, this mod will effectively lift the spindle by 30mm, which in turn, will lower the car by 30mm, more to the point, it gives me clearance for suspension movement, 5/8" Chrome molly RoseJoints will work for this,

Original wishbone,


Modified wishbone


Partial result with everything mocked up in situ, the plumb line shows how much camber I have obtained, I can get another 30mm at the top of the wheel. I now have scope to lower the car another 30mm before fouling problems, its starting to move in the right direction :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Thought I had better do a small update, wont bore you with the reasons for lack of progress, but I'm back on it,

Of all the things on an A35, the thing I don't like is the instruments, something just irks me about it, its not an easy dash to fit extra clocks so they do not look like a car crash in Halfords



so, A little while ago and a peruse around the great evilbay, I bought a dashboard from a early healey sprite, its took a bit of chopping and grinding, then a bit more grinding, its still not finished, but its about right for me, I'm debating if I should go with the original but quirky twist switches or fit more normal toggle switches, Ill fill the indicator hole on top of the dash and get rid of the hump where the original speedo was,

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
About time I popped a few more pics up, not been idle, but life seems to be getting in the way of progress,
The tire clearance has been a real PITA on the back, BUT I think I have beaten it now, turns out the chassis rails/spring mounts/body are slightly offset by about 3-4mm, not a lot but when you are only have 3mm each side, the discrepancy becomes a problem, time to fit a panhard bar and grind a touch more off the arches,



not quite a traditional panhard bar with a rose joint at each end, I have a urathane bush at one end and a shock absorber pin type bush mounted on a bolt with a lock nut either side, by adjusting the lock nuts either way, its dead easy to set the axle, and finer adjustment than a LH/RH threaded adjuster.



And..... a box of bends turned up, :) not my most favourite job, but I cant , afford to get a manifold built, I have bought a couple of used manifolds hoping they would fit or be adaptable, nah, its not going to happen, SO with a big breath and in we go,



Day1


Day2,




there are a couple of bits that need addressing to get them how I want gut overall I'm quite pleased, the Pipes are too big for the engine, but once the car is running and driving there is a good possibility that the MR2 supercharger kit thats lurking in the wings may find its self bolted to the engine

Even the alternator fits, not where I want it, but with the pipes having to come forward, there is no lower position for it to fit

 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Not much been done for a while, I seem to have caught every bug thats going around this winter, hopefully the one I have had for the last 3 weeks has finally gone, and I have an impending knee replacement, so, yesterday I got around to putting together my rollover Jig, then clearing space to use it, where does all the clutter come from?????? although the shell is really good and been restored to a cracking standard, the whole underside has never been painted since all the panels and floors have been replaced, I noticed the other day that there were a couple of bits that may have only been tacked in position, and once on the jig in decent light my fears have been justified, a couple of important suspension pickup points have not been finished, well not to my standards, let the weldathon begin.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
OK I have been having a good look at the bottom of the van and finding a few things that I think are in need of attention, not necessarily because they need welding, but due to the quality of majority of the work, I cant always find how the welding has been done, some has obviously been done on a bench where access to the replaced substructures is better, then fitted to the car, hence I cant obviously see whats been done, some welding I believe was also done by his apprentice, which leaves something to be desired, but, although is not pretty, is secure,, it will get dressed back and capped, so, I have made the decision to stitch the bottom of the car together, it wont take long, as access is good, I started this morning, and after about an hour I have got a great deal of the passenger floor and suspension mounts welded, I feel like I'm on a roll, other side later, if the Swimbo allows

 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Im still chipping away, slowly, but still working on it, from day one, there is something just not to my liking with the front panel, it makes the car a bit odd when the car is lowered, mainly because with 4 at the sill, there is still 9" under the front, it just looks wrong.......... it needed something of a lower valance, results from a rummages at an autojumble gave me a early used, MGB valance, it fitted where it touched, but it was a start, a bit like the original bumper seems to be an after thought, that fits the original valance ... no it dosent fit the front valance at all, there was nothing to lose by trimming the valance to fit the shape of the car a bit better and blend into the wing shape,


so I lopped off an 1" from the leading edge, seems to work a bit better,




then offered up the MGB valance, surprisingly, its only an 1" wider than the A35,



a bit of fetteling things have started to pull together,




Put a bit of colour on it so I can see the shape better, I also filled and made new bumper iron holes, only because I need to fit the car back on the spit to do a bit more underneath, NO BUMPER,



OOH wait, lets see, Found a original ratty bumper on the bin pile, shorten it at both ends and a gentle removal of curve,,,, well what do you think?????, it fits tight to the valance..

,

Meanwhile, I decided to remove the chrome horse shoe from the grill as early A30s were, the chrome spear will stay,





filled the holes with 10mm bungs, worked a treat,



while all of this has been going on, I had a result on ebay, I had been a bit concerned the carbs were a bit too close to the inner wings, the idea was to now go with bike carbs and an upswept manifold, but spotting a set of aftermarket Hayabussa ITBs and purchacing them, commissioning a inlet manifold,

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and acquiring one of these, an Emerald k6 ecu, things are moving on apace...

 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Back on the bumper today, cutting, welding, plugging holes, cutting off more, adding in different places, somehow, I still need to add 100mm to the length, Ill do that when I delete the hole for the starting handle, I have had enough now, too hot out in the garage, + I am runing out of gas, back on it tomorrow when its a cooler, I dont think welding only in my undercreackers and a pair of boots is not ideal, cool but not ideal,

cut n weld cut n weld, grind................



Its starting to fit nicely, a lot of work to do, mostly with the grinder, the bumpers are going satin black.... I think.....

 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
turn your wire speed down and heat up, giving yourself lots to grind otherwise.
I keep the wire feed up a little trying to avoid the undercut, the bumpers are really thin, probably not much more than 16swg I have already ground off the chrome and surface rust, and having to grind out the undercut will make the bumpers thinner than I really want
 
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