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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
 

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I'd be arranging to have a few hours with "Portland Pop" & photograph pretty much everything on his car! I'm sure he said the bonnet spoon WAS a problem, but was solved by sanding a bigger radius in it (might be wrong here though). Regarding the side repeaters, could you mount these in the door mirrors like a lot of modern cars?

It must be soul destroying, but I'm sure once you get into it it'll start to fall into place. Sometimes a solution to a problem is so obvious that you can't see it, so hopefully with you posting any issues on here folks can offer ideas that might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sorry mark could you split the original post down so you have pictures and the question? Just5 think it will be easier for other to envision when asking the question.
Arrgh! took me ages to type all that out! Lucky I'm a moderator & can change stuff!

This thread might get multiple posts for a bit till I can sort it all out.

I'll need to delete a lot of peoples replies to achieve this so sorry to anyone who has posted if your replies go missing - I'll try to put them into quotes instead if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Indicators - I cant find anything about minimum size of indicator so I think what I have is ok for size, but they are mounted too low so will need to be repositioned to comply as well as fitting side repeaters (not currently fitted).


I'm thinking I'll mount the indicators below the headlamp off the headlamp trim ring flange bolt with the wire running through the headlamp pod. This is because I don't want to go cutting holes in my flip front - if it was not finished I would just mount them higher up in the wing. This is a side repeater to show the position, a 21w indicator which will be very similar in looks (but with a wider angle of view) will be used. The original indicator hole will be filled with a rubber grommet.

 

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This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
There is a forward angle of visbility requirement . This is set up an apparatus that is essentially a wooden pantograph with spirit levels / angle finders included plus a length of string ! I can't remember off and but think all the details are include in the section ' forward vision' section . The apparatus ( think his name is George by the way ) sits on a block of predertimied size that sits on your seat . The piece of string goes forward at an angle and above that line must be no obstructions.

This means you CAN have scoops and blowers fitted providing the radii is correct and they are not in the line of vision. Note this is the laid down line of vision which may not agree with your true line of vision.

the height of this can often be varied to suit an existing car by raising or lowering the seat but you must watch how it affects the shoulder belt mount on the seat belt IF using lap and diagonals( see what I mean about one thing affecting another?).
 

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Indicators - I cant find anything about minimum size of indicator so I think what I have is ok for size, but they are mounted too low so will need to be repositioned to comply as well as fitting side repeaters (not currently fitted).


I'm thinking I'll mount the indicators below the headlamp off the headlamp trim ring flange bolt with the wire running through the headlamp pod. This is because I don't want to go cutting holes in my flip front - if it was not finished I would just mount them higher up in the wing. This is a side repeater to show the position, a 21w indicator which will be very similar in looks (but with a wider angle of view) will be used. The original indicator hole will be filled with a rubber grommet.

There isn't a size requirement for indicators nor a need for e markings . On something like a Pop or any car with a nose cone moving the light up there may restrict the required angle of visbility which needs to be considered at same time as min/max height PLUS distance from out most side of bodywork. Don't forget the sphere test which will mean that if it touches the indicator it will need to meet rad requirements . If it doesnt touch it doesnt matter.

The sphere test ( of varying sizes) represent knee/ elbow or head head contact by a pedestrian.

Thanks Kev, under headlamp fits the dimension placings - will need to check angles of visibilty - 45 degrees - but might be only 20 if indicators less than 750mm from ground?
Indcators will be in nice radiused pods :)
 

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Side repeaters, I have made some using Ford E11 marked lenses with a 10mm ultrabright LED inside, this is so it is a flat unit as again I dont want to drill holes in the wing, it will be bonded on instead. I assume its not an issue to have a little bit of wiring showing as it runs around the wing edge?

Wiring shouldn't be an issue BUT you again need to check angles of visibilty from the rear. If the rear wings make the car wider than the front the angle of visbility probably wont be met and you'll need to look at moving the repeater higher but still within laid down height and distance from front. This is why many include them in the wing mirror .It can also be included in body lines , it can be made small and discrete as no need for e marks again. However in belt line you again need to check lines of visbility which also have a min /max viewing point and sometimes a door handle can get in the way at some point between those points( from experience)
 

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Wipers, - again not sure on these due to radius requirements, the nut that holds them onto the body might need its edges smoothing - a spare set can be rounded off for this if so. Not sure about the wiper blades & arms though - could be a bit of a mare to alter these if they don't comply.

Nuts normally need a radius or suitable plastic cover ,it's the same with the angled spacers that many set ups use , they will normally fail on radius Blades and arms are exempt .Wipers must meet screen area clearance requirements an be two seperate speeds as laid down. On some motors this may require a 3 wiper set up to provide correct screen cleaning, worth considering before that roof chop.
 

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Front number plate fixing? Rules state a radiused (again!) fixing area, but can I just say I will use an adhesive transfer(?) one under the n/s headlamp?

Nope, MUST have a designated area that can be checked for angles of visibility .Could be created by using clamps on grille bars.

Follow up to this - no requirements at all in the test for a front number plate fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks Kev,
Wipers have a good sweep (I modified them to achieve this - from memory 120 degrees) and are 2 speed with intermittent, so job done there :) Nice to know arms & blades are exempt.

Ok, clamps on grill bars it is for number plate - an easy fix.

Ref side repeaters, this might be a bit of a problem as rear wings are wider than fronts, anywhere else on body is no good as Nick found out! front wings are wider than door mirrors though. Rules state 5 degree angle - I'd better hope that clears the rear wings :(
 
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