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This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
There is a forward angle of visbility requirement . This is set up an apparatus that is essentially a wooden pantograph with spirit levels / angle finders included plus a length of string ! I can't remember off and but think all the details are include in the section ' forward vision' section . The apparatus ( think his name is George by the way ) sits on a block of predertimied size that sits on your seat . The piece of string goes forward at an angle and above that line must be no obstructions.

This means you CAN have scoops and blowers fitted providing the radii is correct and they are not in the line of vision. Note this is the laid down line of vision which may not agree with your true line of vision.

the height of this can often be varied to suit an existing car by raising or lowering the seat but you must watch how it affects the shoulder belt mount on the seat belt IF using lap and diagonals( see what I mean about one thing affecting another?).
 

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Indicators - I cant find anything about minimum size of indicator so I think what I have is ok for size, but they are mounted too low so will need to be repositioned to comply as well as fitting side repeaters (not currently fitted).


I'm thinking I'll mount the indicators below the headlamp off the headlamp trim ring flange bolt with the wire running through the headlamp pod. This is because I don't want to go cutting holes in my flip front - if it was not finished I would just mount them higher up in the wing. This is a side repeater to show the position, a 21w indicator which will be very similar in looks (but with a wider angle of view) will be used. The original indicator hole will be filled with a rubber grommet.

There isn't a size requirement for indicators nor a need for e markings . On something like a Pop or any car with a nose cone moving the light up there may restrict the required angle of visbility which needs to be considered at same time as min/max height PLUS distance from out most side of bodywork. Don't forget the sphere test which will mean that if it touches the indicator it will need to meet rad requirements . If it doesnt touch it doesnt matter.

The sphere test ( of varying sizes) represent knee/ elbow or head head contact by a pedestrian.

Thanks Kev, under headlamp fits the dimension placings - will need to check angles of visibilty - 45 degrees - but might be only 20 if indicators less than 750mm from ground?
Indcators will be in nice radiused pods :)
 

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Side repeaters, I have made some using Ford E11 marked lenses with a 10mm ultrabright LED inside, this is so it is a flat unit as again I dont want to drill holes in the wing, it will be bonded on instead. I assume its not an issue to have a little bit of wiring showing as it runs around the wing edge?

Wiring shouldn't be an issue BUT you again need to check angles of visibilty from the rear. If the rear wings make the car wider than the front the angle of visbility probably wont be met and you'll need to look at moving the repeater higher but still within laid down height and distance from front. This is why many include them in the wing mirror .It can also be included in body lines , it can be made small and discrete as no need for e marks again. However in belt line you again need to check lines of visbility which also have a min /max viewing point and sometimes a door handle can get in the way at some point between those points( from experience)
 

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Wipers, - again not sure on these due to radius requirements, the nut that holds them onto the body might need its edges smoothing - a spare set can be rounded off for this if so. Not sure about the wiper blades & arms though - could be a bit of a mare to alter these if they don't comply.

Nuts normally need a radius or suitable plastic cover ,it's the same with the angled spacers that many set ups use , they will normally fail on radius Blades and arms are exempt .Wipers must meet screen area clearance requirements an be two seperate speeds as laid down. On some motors this may require a 3 wiper set up to provide correct screen cleaning, worth considering before that roof chop.
 

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Front number plate fixing? Rules state a radiused (again!) fixing area, but can I just say I will use an adhesive transfer(?) one under the n/s headlamp?

Nope, MUST have a designated area that can be checked for angles of visibility .Could be created by using clamps on grille bars.

Follow up to this - no requirements at all in the test for a front number plate fitting.
 

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Bonnet spoon - not sure on this one - might not meet the radius requirements? It can be removed for the test I suppose? I may be able to borrow one from a friend that could be smoothed over with a grinder if not & painted black.

Spoon will need radiuing I think , check with Nick, removing it then leaves the bonnet hinge ( which isn't there in your case) open to having to meet rad requirments a much harder job than rading the spoon.

My 'hinge' has a fairly nice radius on it so maybe not an issue, I think Geoff on here has a smoothed out spoon for this reason which I think I can borrow to make a cast of a smoother one for mine.
 

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Door hinges - less sure on this bit, sticking out is ok but a bit unsure if they meet the radius requirements - might need to make some sort of cover or an extra top plate with a bigger radius if so?

Bit late on this one but a full rad job before paint would be the normal way to go. In this instance probably a bonded cover with correct radius should sort it. Need of course to check first, and balance out the fact that hinges on a rod style body can only project 50mm, 40mm on shoebox style motors.

Yes, easy job to fix if car unfinished. I think a 3mm ally plate shaped to the door part of the hinge with full radiused edges bonded & gloss black painted should fix that then. Hinges protrude less than 40mm so no issues there.
Hidden hinges would of course cure all of this and I would have fitted them all those years ago if I know how at the time - would have made aligning the doors far easier too!
 

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Wiring can be modified for the test without totally redoing by running additional wires with split sheathing over the top. Again easier if a planned build , I'll keep putting that so peopel don't get overawed.
 

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Ah, not understood that part - hope headers are ok then - they could be shortened a bit if necessary as they need re-coating anyway.
I can make some spheres at work, will buy some radius gauges - did not know they made such a thing so thanks for that.
I think you have got a car through BIVA - am I right in this?
Non calibrated inner /outer radii feeler gauges available from car Builder Solutions for around £10 . Calibrated are around £250 at least !!
 

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NOT if the indicator is inside the headlight as operation of one light cannot affect another .ie you can't have the indicator behind the patterned lens but it can be in a separate section contained outside the actual headlamp but within it's shape if you follow .Look at something like a MINI .

In Marks case he has angel eye headlamps IF it meets angles of visibility the angel eye itself could be used as an indicator and the headlamp unit modified to take a sidelight bulb.


Talking of which any light that looks like a light WILL be checked unless rendered permanently non operational without the use of workshop tools. Simplest way is to remove the old indicator entirely and fit in a blank.

Bear in mind that if the light is too low for BIVA then it is also too low for C&U should you ever be checked on the road ;)
 

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That part isn't actually required on BIVA only on NIVA vehicles ;) Hasn't stopped loads being sold though :)

Really? excellent news as I was aware of that bit - are you 100% on this Kev?
Yup, spoke direct with VOSA ( DVSA ) tech about it when they first appeared on the market .
 
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