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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is not meant to be a "how to" but it will hopefully dispel a few myths about the BIVA test.

It will be a slow to update thread as I have no proper idea as yet as to what I will need to do to get a pass certificate - it's pretty daunting just reading the manual and trying to understand the paperwork involved - but that part will be looked at later (once Ive understood it).

Some of my mods will be a bit odd, but that's because I'm altering a finished car - if I was doing it before it was painted & finished it would be much easier to make everything correct and still look 'cool'

I'll start at the beginning as that's a very good place to start........:whistle:

This is what has to pass the test.



I'll start at the front and concentrate on the car up to the windscreen for tonight.
The scoop will need to go as it will fail on 'restricted vision' (otherwise it would pass as all edges meet the correct radii - it unbolts so no issues there, though I may have to make a low scoop to cover the hole in the bonnet). The rest of the front is ok I think as it meets all the radius requirements.



Anyone who has passed the BIVA test, please let me know if I'm right or wrong on anything listed tonight or in future posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sorry mark could you split the original post down so you have pictures and the question? Just5 think it will be easier for other to envision when asking the question.
Arrgh! took me ages to type all that out! Lucky I'm a moderator & can change stuff!

This thread might get multiple posts for a bit till I can sort it all out.

I'll need to delete a lot of peoples replies to achieve this so sorry to anyone who has posted if your replies go missing - I'll try to put them into quotes instead if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Indicators - I cant find anything about minimum size of indicator so I think what I have is ok for size, but they are mounted too low so will need to be repositioned to comply as well as fitting side repeaters (not currently fitted).


I'm thinking I'll mount the indicators below the headlamp off the headlamp trim ring flange bolt with the wire running through the headlamp pod. This is because I don't want to go cutting holes in my flip front - if it was not finished I would just mount them higher up in the wing. This is a side repeater to show the position, a 21w indicator which will be very similar in looks (but with a wider angle of view) will be used. The original indicator hole will be filled with a rubber grommet.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Side repeaters, I have made some using Ford E11 marked lenses with a 10mm ultrabright LED inside, this is so it is a flat unit as again I dont want to drill holes in the wing, it will be bonded on instead. I assume its not an issue to have a little bit of wiring showing as it runs around the wing edge?

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks Kev,
Wipers have a good sweep (I modified them to achieve this - from memory 120 degrees) and are 2 speed with intermittent, so job done there :) Nice to know arms & blades are exempt.

Ok, clamps on grill bars it is for number plate - an easy fix.

Ref side repeaters, this might be a bit of a problem as rear wings are wider than fronts, anywhere else on body is no good as Nick found out! front wings are wider than door mirrors though. Rules state 5 degree angle - I'd better hope that clears the rear wings :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Again I can see solutions to most of the issues here but this thread is to open up discussion isn't it?

I will be covering all this stuff in more depth in my book.
Mostly looking for the 'no' answers kev like the number plate & washer jet questions, just checked in garage with some wooden battens and I think I'm ok on the 5 degrees rearwards angles on the side repeaters, will need to get a protractor & laser guide out to make sure though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Its down to wiring again though. The loom is finished & completely sheathed everywhere with adhesive shrink tube on the ends, so not an option for altering now really. Apart from that it would be a mare getting the wiring up into the door hinges. Wiring for the wing repeaters is a simple job of just making loom extensions to plug into the existing loom plugs.

Wiring for the fog & reversing lamps should not be too bad as I left a couple of 'spare' wires in the loom which can be used, though the fancy box of tricks for the fog lamp will be fun to wire into the column as there is no room left at all in there - but that's a story for another installment.

Trying to keep everything as simple as possible to do with a little impact on the finished car as possible, many things would be dead easy if built into the car from the start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Already you have issues over guessing whether something meets the requirements or not. Radii, go buy yourself a set of radius gauges, not expensive, then you'll be sure. Washer jets, door hinges etc, make yourself or have made a 100mm sphere and use that to determine if those items conform. You may not need one, but make yourself a large 60 degree right angle triangle to get some idea of the "floor line" of the vehicle and see if items like your header out lets meet the requirements. All simple stuff made easier with a few basic tools.
Ah, not understood that part - hope headers are ok then - they could be shortened a bit if necessary as they need re-coating anyway.
I can make some spheres at work, will buy some radius gauges - did not know they made such a thing so thanks for that.
I think you have got a car through BIVA - am I right in this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Just bought some Moore & Wright ones off Evilbay :)
What section should I be re-reading about the headers sticking out Kev?

Hmmm....think I've found it section 16/29.
"Side mounted exhaust must terminate no more than 50mm from the extreme outer edge of the vehicle"
Hmmm depends on what the extreme outer edge of the vehicle is? They mostly stick out backwards?
 
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