IFS Balljoint and stubaxle identification
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Gerry, the uprights look like Muzzy 2 with a bit missing.
Tha balljoints look like the aftermarket ones used on tubular Muzzy arms like these..........
Speedway 1968-89 Chrysler-Type Upper Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Tha balljoints look like the aftermarket ones used on tubular Muzzy arms like these..........
Speedway 1968-89 Chrysler-Type Upper Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
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252 Posts
Thanks Ross that gives me something to work with, as I thought they were press fit!
Cheers Trev, will get the measure or the flats tomorrow.
Do you know if they are left or right hand thread?
Thanks again, really appreciate it.
Gerry
Cheers Trev, will get the measure or the flats tomorrow.
Do you know if they are left or right hand thread?
Thanks again, really appreciate it.
Gerry
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1,425 Posts
Mustang 2 - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
1. you have stock diameter rotors, 9 1/4 inch - use stock mustang brake calipers
2. you can get the stock rotors in 5 stud ford or chevy, they come with 1/2 '' unf 20 tpi studs.
3. you can directly fit 11'' ford usa rotors, use metric chevy calieprs with a cast caliper adaptor. -widens track 1/2 inch, stock et for mustang 2 is et10mm
4. the taper for the steering ball joint track rod end is 7.2 degrees, if using an imperial steering rod, use the stock mustang 2 - if you need a m14 by 1.5 metric rod end, use a 1995 mustang sn95 tre.
5 it is easier you find the 11'' brake parts than stock mustang 2 stuff.
6. you can simply directly fit wilwwod pro-spindles mustang 2 spindles, that have a bolt on arm that lets you fit the steering arm so its steers from the rear. stock stang 2 is forward fitting.
7. the balljoints are mopar, but when you buy them, if you get them from speedway, then its simply a mustang 2 ball joint for aftermarket use.
8. you need a deep washer on the lower one, as the pin thread / nut bottoms out.
9. the stock wheel base for a stang 2 is only 96 inches, the track - centre of tyres is 54.5''
10 stock the stang 2 ran 13'' wheels, hense the disc diametre is so small, the tyres were 195 70 13 = about 2 foot diameter, if you run a 15 inch wheel you need a 60 sewries profile in order to get a diameteer of about the same 595mm.
11. scrub radii - in order to have the centreline of the tyre bisecting through both the bearings -for load spread, plus of course scrub and the like, you need to match the stock wheels et of 10mm positive, the closest you can get is a 6j wheel with an et of say 5mm - the torque thrust series 105 have this, if you fit a 4.5j rim the plottted line throughthe ball joints will only just touch the inside of the rim, - if using the 60 series tyre 165
the actual stock caliper and mounting are a bit old in terms of design, the concept is rather 1972, i.e. the caliper slides in a trapesoidal 'horse' on the caliper mount, rather than like a modern front calieper.
5.
1. you have stock diameter rotors, 9 1/4 inch - use stock mustang brake calipers
2. you can get the stock rotors in 5 stud ford or chevy, they come with 1/2 '' unf 20 tpi studs.
3. you can directly fit 11'' ford usa rotors, use metric chevy calieprs with a cast caliper adaptor. -widens track 1/2 inch, stock et for mustang 2 is et10mm
4. the taper for the steering ball joint track rod end is 7.2 degrees, if using an imperial steering rod, use the stock mustang 2 - if you need a m14 by 1.5 metric rod end, use a 1995 mustang sn95 tre.
5 it is easier you find the 11'' brake parts than stock mustang 2 stuff.
6. you can simply directly fit wilwwod pro-spindles mustang 2 spindles, that have a bolt on arm that lets you fit the steering arm so its steers from the rear. stock stang 2 is forward fitting.
7. the balljoints are mopar, but when you buy them, if you get them from speedway, then its simply a mustang 2 ball joint for aftermarket use.
8. you need a deep washer on the lower one, as the pin thread / nut bottoms out.
9. the stock wheel base for a stang 2 is only 96 inches, the track - centre of tyres is 54.5''
10 stock the stang 2 ran 13'' wheels, hense the disc diametre is so small, the tyres were 195 70 13 = about 2 foot diameter, if you run a 15 inch wheel you need a 60 sewries profile in order to get a diameteer of about the same 595mm.
11. scrub radii - in order to have the centreline of the tyre bisecting through both the bearings -for load spread, plus of course scrub and the like, you need to match the stock wheels et of 10mm positive, the closest you can get is a 6j wheel with an et of say 5mm - the torque thrust series 105 have this, if you fit a 4.5j rim the plottted line throughthe ball joints will only just touch the inside of the rim, - if using the 60 series tyre 165
the actual stock caliper and mounting are a bit old in terms of design, the concept is rather 1972, i.e. the caliper slides in a trapesoidal 'horse' on the caliper mount, rather than like a modern front calieper.
5.
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looking at you car, as it appears, I am looking at it from the front, if that is the case, then your spindles are on the wrong sides, i.e. the steering arms need to point forwards.
if you strike the ackerman line through the line through the bal joints, and through the steering arm, they simply will not bisect the centre of the rear axle -which they need to do.
yours you can physicall see, as you have no fenders are not.
it looks like a bodel b, if the wheel base is in fact 104-6 inches, you will still need to bend the arms a smidge.
if you strike the ackerman line through the line through the bal joints, and through the steering arm, they simply will not bisect the centre of the rear axle -which they need to do.
yours you can physicall see, as you have no fenders are not.
it looks like a bodel b, if the wheel base is in fact 104-6 inches, you will still need to bend the arms a smidge.
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252 Posts
Thanks Nobler,
Think I will need to get out my suspension design book to fully understand, but I think you are saying that if I got the wilwood pro-spindles with the bolt on steering arms, allowing the steering arms to point to the rear then it would be closer to being correct. Did a search and they are available for £175 from Rally design.
The Chassis is 1931 Chevy with 109" wheelbase.
Cheers
Gerry
Think I will need to get out my suspension design book to fully understand, but I think you are saying that if I got the wilwood pro-spindles with the bolt on steering arms, allowing the steering arms to point to the rear then it would be closer to being correct. Did a search and they are available for £175 from Rally design.
The Chassis is 1931 Chevy with 109" wheelbase.
Cheers
Gerry
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2,135 Posts
Gerry, Ackermann principle is at least 150 years old and has been modified as progress on tyres and suspension has improved.
The rear axle intersection is a basic rule of thumb but not cast in stone. Revised Ackermann says a wheelbase length behind the rear axle is acceptable too.
Put the rack at the front and it will be fine.
The rear axle intersection is a basic rule of thumb but not cast in stone. Revised Ackermann says a wheelbase length behind the rear axle is acceptable too.
Put the rack at the front and it will be fine.
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