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Rust buster...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've been working on a trashed 700r4 I picked up last year for about £60 at the NSRA swap meet. I knew that it would need a rebuild.

Went with a PATC Junior Raptor rebuild kit which came with a host of upgrade parts, including huge billet servo, beast sun shell, upgrade sprags, big intermediate and low/reverse boost valves etc. I also fitted an Alto Z-pak in the 3-4 clutch. Topped it off with a full Transgo reprogramming kit. Heavy duty 45.5" drive shaft.

At the same time I changed my rear axle to a 4.10 12 bolt with Moroso Brute Strength posi and Superior steel shafts.

Finished the install today. Checked line pressures:

P - 120 PSI
R - 180 PSI
N - 120 PSI
D - 120 PSI
3 - 120 PSI
2 - 220 PSI
1 - 220 PSI

Pressure rises in P to 200 as soon as the TV cable is moved about 1/16". So from the info I can find it all looks OK.

It's really transformed the car, I did have a 2.42 and TH350, I don't think the rear tires are going to be lasting long at all.

All the shifts are super firm. I do need to check to see if its locking up in 4th, can't tell whether it is or not. Running a single wire set up with a pressure switch for 4th only, so I think it should lock up as it shifts into 4th anyway.

Fitted a big Mocal 32 row fluid cooler and I am seeing fluid temps maxing out at 175F.

With 28" tall rear tyres the engines running 2400rpm at 60mph in OD.



 

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Nice how easy is it to get the parts and at what cost, i have an early box and thinking of swapping out with the th350 in my truck
 

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The 700 is a great box.

You may run out of 1st gear pretty quick through, mind you it'll get there fast!
Around 9 to 10 to 1 is a good first gear ratio, yours will be 3.06 x 4.10, which is 12.5. Let us know how that works out.
My vette has a 2.87 first gear with a 3.55 diff, it feels pretty much perfect, and comes out at 10.1
The Stude is 3.06 (TH700) x 3.55 and feels good too (10.8)

I have no idea why I have an emoticon instead of an 8...
 

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Nice job Flakmonkey ! I know who I'll be tapping up for my rebuilds - errr hang on a minute I already do rebuilds! Doh.

That lockup greatly depends on how you wired it. If you left it through the temp sensor then it wont lockup until the fluids warm. I heard they are iffy so most folks bypass. You've then got your 4th gear pressure switch, which means it only locks in 4th. Then vacuum switch if you fitted one, then brake disconnect safety blah blah... - Did you check the solenoid for continuity? Jon
 

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Rust buster...
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did wire it through the temp switch, I might drop the pan and disconnect it. It's wired through the brake pedal switch, with permanent +12v to one side of the solenoid. The ground then runs through the temp switch and pressure switch and is grounded inside the transmission.

It doesn't seem to be locking up at all, so I need to investigate that.
 
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