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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there peeps, not a rod but deffo a sod my boys 216 has spat out his headgasket:sniff:, we are going to risk a rebuild without skimming (fingers crossed)
thing is any one have an opinion on using hylomar red or blue? or do we think it is better off going on dry???
your thoughts will be welcome (apart from "serves you right buying a rover!!:D).

Glenn
 

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really wouldnt put it back together without a skim on that engine, but if you do cross them fingers hard!
thomas harris on here has had a lot to do with these engines, pm him or sure he post on it soon :tup:
 

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Funnily enough one of the guys that works for me mentioned this engine type today. Evidentley they have plastic dowels to locate the head. These should be replaced with steel ones , skim the head and use new head studs as they stretch when torqueing.

Get a few more opinions to make sure though , good luck:tup:
 

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Funnily enough one of the guys that works for me mentioned this engine type today. Evidentley they have plastic dowels to locate the head. These should be replaced with steel ones , skim the head and use new head studs as they stretch when torqueing.

Get a few more opinions to make sure though , good luck:tup:
Waynes right, the headgasket sets we used to get came with the metal dowels which are so much better. Deffo skim the head and scrape any crap from the block. you can get away with using the stretch studs again, but its good practise to replace them, as they do stretch as wayne said lol :D oh and if your doing all this work, may aswell do the water pump and timing belt too if it aint been done in a while :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
head skimming

ok there seems to be a general opinion here that not skimming is wishfull thinking does anyone know somewhere local to farnborough hants that can do this and how much it is going to cost?.
i presume that they will want a completely stripped head for this, is there anything to watch out for on the k engine when stripping the head?.
asking lots of questions by the way as i want to go in fully armed the last time i done a headgasket was on a mini a lonnnng time ago
 

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ok there seems to be a general opinion here that not skimming is wishfull thinking does anyone know somewhere local to farnborough hants that can do this and how much it is going to cost?.
i presume that they will want a completely stripped head for this, is there anything to watch out for on the k engine when stripping the head?.
asking lots of questions by the way as i want to go in fully armed the last time i done a headgasket was on a mini a lonnnng time ago
We used to pay 20 quid (very cheap) for a skim, cant be a whole lot more than that round your area. if you take the head off with the cams still fixed , remove the cams and tappets and make sure them plugs are out, and just hand them the head and they shall skim it!
 

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Hi you can get a kit with all the bits from a company called Gaskets for Classic's, the kit has everything u need to do the job including head bolts and multi layer steel head gasket my mate has done a load of these and never had any back and im sure the kit is only about £50 + postage, :tup:

oh and you definatly need to skim the head...

jim
 

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hi land rover know of this problem and sell an uprated gasket for the freelander 1.8i
i think is composite not steel.
hope this helps
 

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Glenn, if you can't find anyone local to you. give me call and I'll try my engine machine shop, normally dirt cheap , and get a price for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good Evening to you Kev:tup:
"kapri to the rescue again"
i will keep this offer as plan b (to avoid bothering you without trying).
i think there is a machine shop thta does a lot of engine work in milford between me and paul (farncombepop), but hopefully i can find someone more local

Cheers Glenn
 

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ok there seems to be a general opinion here that not skimming is wishfull thinking does anyone know somewhere local to farnborough hants that can do this and how much it is going to cost?.
i presume that they will want a completely stripped head for this, is there anything to watch out for on the k engine when stripping the head?.
asking lots of questions by the way as i want to go in fully armed the last time i done a headgasket was on a mini a lonnnng time ago
Roe engineering in Fleet..............01252 613404

You definately need to get the head skimmed, I would never put one of these back together without doing it. You also need the modified head gasket, which comes as a head gasket and a steel shim gasket and two steel dowels. Also a new set of head bolts.
 

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There's an awful lot of hype and miss-information spoken about the K series.
The head doesnt neccesarily need skimming. Check to make its not warped by laying the edge of a steel rule against the mating surface. If it's not warped then a skim is pointless.
You should also use the redesigned landrover gasket when reassembling. This version of the gasket has an improved fire ring design which is one of the main reasons for K series head gasket failure.
As mentioned above a new set of headbolts will be essential as they are designed to strech when tightened up to the correct torque.
 

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the hard does need a skim as the surface needs to be a mirror finish to use the modified gasket, thats wot the landrover chaps told us to do, we did one this week, which the fire rings in the old gasket had made a groove in the head, so a skim was needed but untill u get it apart u dont really no, the place we use for the kit i mentioned web site is www.gasketsforclassics.co.uk, they r really helpful and make all the gaskets themselves...

jim
 

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done loads of these and have always sent the head away (paynes :tup:) for a crack test and skim, that, along with a new set of bolts and the metal dowels,
as said up there ^^, if it aint had 1 for a while whack in a new w/pump and while you have it in bits, chuck in a new t/stat (both cheap) while the head/inlet manifold is out of the way, and dont forget a new c/belt and tensioner :tup:

some customers winced at the quote but its cheaper to do it once properly than twice wrongly :)
 

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I'm pretty sure the liners are supposed to sit proud of the cylinder block surface but don't know by how much. Also had it a couple times where these engines had got really hot and after doing the head gasket and sticking it back together found they would misfire because of low compression. We found this was because of the valves not seating well and its a fiddly bastard of a job with tiny collits.
 
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