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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Young Dale has a problem with one of his Kadrons on his Vrod, does anyone know much about these carbs???

I had Dell's on mine, so Kads are a bit of an unknown to me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One of them seems to be 'dead', nothing happening at all...???????


Float/s, jet/s, gaskets all ok....??????????/


Carb has been swapped from side to side, but still won't play....
 

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Had them on my last 58 but it's a while back now. Float levels, needle valve , or failing rubber hose connection flapping inside ? Not running at all or just badly ? Manifold swapped at same time from side to side ?If so possible gasket leak between manifold and carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kev, the trouble is I am sitting here in Leicester, and the car is in Lincolnshire...

I have asked those questions, but all seems to be ok, fuel lines have been swapped, floats checked, jets blown through...

Not asked about the fanimolds though...

Will send Dale the link...

Ta

p.s. It was running ok'ish at the Nats the other week, so somethings amis somewhere...
 

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No help to Dale but mine were reliable as hell, only trouble I ever had was when the crosslink dropped off and even then it ran fine ( if a little lumpy :shock:) on one bank only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ta Kev, I have passed on the link, so, fingers crossed...

One major problem according to that site, he is running a 009 copy dissy, they don't have vacuum advance, and the lowbugget site says the Kads need it...??

p.s. is a rear main oil seal a case splitting job???

Never did one, so I don't know...
 

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Long time since I've done one so had to check with a mate who's done one recently but yes can be done without splitting case. You need to fit the seal about 1m in rather than flush . You also need to change the flywheel O ring at the same time .

Make sure that is the leak, the rear camshaft seal can also leak and there are very ways to fix this depending on what are the origins of the crankcase .

While the flywheel is off make sure the case isn't cracked as where in the bearings can let teh crank wander and cause the case to split.


Like I said to Dale at the Nats make sure the nuts holding the case together are done up to the right torque,bolts can creep if it's higher compression that stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ta Kev, seems like the oil is coming from the rear of the motor (gearbox end...) I have told him to drop it out, take the tinwear off, retorque the case bolts, then the head bolts, then readjust his valve clearences, but I also said to change the seal if it looked suspect...

Not heard from him, will have to ring him in a mo, to see if he read the link...

:shake:


Kids...:S
 

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Never ,ever experienced loose case bolts on a VW unless it threw a rod.
Oil dropping from the split between the engine and box will virtually always be a crank oil seal. If the motor wasn't rebuilt it probably has loads of endfloat. If he grabs the front pulley and pulls in and out .........there should be no movement(well 4 thou is ok). If it clunks in and out, very likely, then no matter how many times the seal is changed it will keep leaking. Bottom end rebuild on the cards.

K-duds..as we used to call them........very simple carb, not alot to them.
What exactly isn't working? If one side of the motor isn't firing, then it's probably a huge air leak at the manifold or at the crossover pipe(is it fitted? or blocked off?).
If there is fuel in the float bowl and the accelerator pump scoots juice down the venturi, the problem is somewhere else. Also, balancing twins makes a huge difference. One carb can easily do nothing on idle making the motor real rough.
From the video footage posted elsewhere, the constant backfiring through the small exhausts etc, I would be looking at the basics first. Valve lash, timing, air leaks, carb balance.
Compression test would help as I commented before that burnt valves are an issue with tiny exhaust pipes.
 

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thanks for the help lads :)

ive tryed everything everyone has said and nothing seems to change,everything looks and seems ok its just this carb just does not want to work,there is fuel getting to the float camber :)ive checked the valve's,clearence eveything it just doesnt wanna run :(
 

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Dale,might be worth a try sticking on a stock inlet manifold and carb to see if it runs ok like that . What exactly is the problem , rough running ? Has it always been like that or has it developed recently ?
 

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if i had a stock manifold i would kev ;) the problem is its only running on 3&4 cylinder 1 &2 arnt working at all,it started running like that a coupld of days after the nats,so no it hasnt always been like it :tdown: thats whats confusing me :(
 

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Have you run a compression test on the cylinders ? As Ross said spitting back could be a sign of leaky valves. What mileage is on the engine?
 

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Get the manifold off and check that. I have had motors do that and it has been the manifold sitting slightly on the tinware and although seemingly tight, it actually was not and air was rushing in.
Pull the plugs on that side. If they are very white looking you have an air leak that won't let the cylinders fire as it is way too lean.

Carbs, especially K duds are very simple things. They may not work "properly" but they always work at some level.
 

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ross i swapped the "dead" carb from one side to the other and it did the same so its got to be something to do with the carb,not the manifold,lines etc
 

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Have the carbs been apart at all since then ? Does it have an removeable auxiliary venturi and if it's been pulled out has it been put back in the correct way round ie open end towards fuel supply ( easy mistake to make on a Weber but long time since I played with Kadrons )
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Phew, thought it was you Ross, but wasn't sure...

Good, now you two VW guru's can help for a bit, I'm going back to watch the NASCAR...

:tup:
 

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Dale, when you say you changed the carb over and it did the same..........expand a litle on that. Did you change the carb only?...or carb/manifold complete?
"It did the same"...what do you mean by that? Did it still run on two cylinders only? Which two? How are you checking that?

A veedub running on two cylinders when revved up will actually sound ok(probably 'cos it's an even number) on three they sound real rough.

If fuel is in the float bowls, when you work the throttle does fuel come out the accelerator pump jets? If it does than you should be able to run the motor by constantly blipping the throttle until it warms the manifolds.

A carb is basically a tube that engine vaccum pulls air through and on it's way it pulls fuel from a reservoir through the idle circuits.

I think the issue may be elsewhere .

Kev, I don't think Kads had aux vents. The filter mountings were shaped kinda like aux vents but they didn't make much difference, We removed them to use other filters without any probs.
 

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i changed the carb ONLY from side to side,before i changed it the motor was running on 3&4 cylinders only,i changed it over to the other side and it run on 1&2 so its gotta be this carb,it cant be the manifolds,gaskets etc cause its only the carb i changed over.

yes i know what ya mean about it only running on 2 it does sound ok until i give it some revs then it starts popping and banging.
 
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