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have you strippe dit down and blown through ALL the passages to make sure it's clean. By all I mean even strange holes that appear to go nowhere ( sometimes air bleeds).Blow it all through BOTH ways with carb cleaner to make sure. Thinking of which have you run it without air cleaners just to make sure no orifices blocked by them ?
 

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i have cleaned it half a dozen times now kev,will give it another go again tonight though,i havent got any air filters yet other than the socks :p

sounds like it has really baffled everyone :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
As I said, if it ain't running properly, bring it to Shakey anyways, more heads to scratch...!!!
 

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So do the accelerator pump jets work or not?
How are you checking that the opposing cylinders were not firing when you changed the carb over?
Is the popping and banging through the carbs or through the exhaust?
 

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yes they work.

we are checking it by taking the plug leads off which isnt making any difference to the way the engine runs,so therefore its only running on 2.

its mainly through the exhaust but through the carb sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
i dont think single carbs work with my exhaust guy :(

and i havent got a pot to piss in atm :(
The only reason they say they don't work is the preheat pipes, which you can just blank off...

Money, I can't help with, soz...:sniff:
 

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FINALLY

took the carb off again tonight gave it a complete strip down and clean put it back on and its working a treat.

tuned it all up but definatly think the 009 copy has to go its complete shit lol

does anyone know if the vaccum pipes on the manifold need connecting together or just blanking off?
 

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The later 009s are shit. Timed at 7 degrees static they will go to anything from 24-38 degrees full advance! Need to compromise but no more than 32 deg full advance.

The tube between the manifolds is to balance out pulses so fit it if you can.
I have blanked them off in the past for other reasons, but access is easy on your car so fit a good piece of tube with clips and it should help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So, lets see a pics of your new exhaust then...

At last...


:woohoo:



Oh, have you pulled the motor yet and torqued everything up???
 

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What Ross said ..and use a dial back gun and ignore the cam pulley markings if you have an aftermarket degreed wheel. I struggled for ages to trace a pinging which I thought was mixture. Turned out the degreed sticker was on 3 degrees out :(
 

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yes ive got a pipe on there now and it seems to be helping :)

guy no i havent had the engine out yet,thats gunna be today or tomorow i think,but i definatly think its that oil seal cause its absolutly pissing out now.

the pulley seems fine kev its just the dizzy is shit,more expence :(
 

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Check the crank end float by pulling on the pulley as I mentioned before.
If there is a perceptible "clunk" changing the oil seal will only last a few days.
The crank gears are helical so make the crank move backwards and forwards in the case as the motor works. It just pops the seal straight back out.
If you measure it with a dial indicator, you can maybe change shims to get to the right amount, but as there should only be three shims in there you are kinda limited.
You can bodge it with more shims but that is a very short term thing.
 

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Well 4 thou feels like nothing so maybe you are okay and the seal has just dried out.
When you fit the new one, before you put the flywheel back on coat the face that runs against the seal with some grease. If everything has been cleaned up when apart sometimes on first start up the seal "grabs", rotates and leaks again.
 
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