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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have any experience of clutch issues with Kia's or Hyundai's? The problem seems to affect both and affects my parents 2013 Kia Ceed 1.6CRDi.

The bite point is so low to the floor that you have to try and shove the pedal through the floor to select a gear, it's getting a bit much for my step-father at the age of 86! The car is low mileage (50K) and they bought it when it was 5 years old with 36K on the clock. A friend has checked the registration number and discovered that the car has had TWO new clutches before my parents had it, making me suspect that the Kia dealer tried in vain to sort this. Looking on the various forums it seems to be a very well known issue with no apparent cause. It seems to affect both Kia and some Hyundai models at random.

There are a few bodge fixes quoted online involving removing the clutch damper to improve the pedal travel but I'm curious if anyone on here has any real-world experience of this before they go to the expense of changing the car.
 

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Mmmm, I wonder if it's self adjusting at the pedal ( rather than just self adjusting like on a diaphram clutch ).They can have a problem of shedding teeth . However I'd have thought it was more a case of cable stretch OR maybe the bulkhead fitting moving/ popPing whatever effectively taking the tension out of the cable .

VW Polos used to have a habit of twisting the locating area on the actual clutch pedal which would slowly lower the pedal until it ripped through.

The fact it's had two clutches suggest neither really soved the problem and no one has looked elsewhere or for other makes with similar problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It’s a hydraulic system with the clutch master cylinder fed from the brake reservoir. Spent some time today looking in various Kia forums & it’s quite common with the blame being put down as being a build up of tolerances! I drove it on Sunday & it’s horrible. They should have gone for an auto.....
 

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can you feel if there's any free play at the pushrod? if so maybe weld a bit more length onto the end assuming it's not adjustable (as that would be far too sensible).
neil.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
can you feel if there's any free play at the pushrod? if so maybe weld a bit more length onto the end assuming it's not adjustable (as that would be far too sensible).
neil.
neil.
Tried that and there's nothing, also the push rod starts to move as soon as the pedal is pressed so it sounds "internal" but seeing as so many of them seem to suffer with it it sounds design/tolerance related. I've suggested they do the same as Mark & get rid of it.
 

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an obvious but often overlooked thing is i don't suppose it's got thick floormats that stop the pedal going all the way to the floor?
also are you getting full travel of the master cylinder, ie could you extend the pedal pushrod to raise the pedal a bit and give you the bit extra needed?
neil.
 

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This is when I really miss being out on the road repping in the motor trade . Used to be great gaining knowledge from those who had overcome these problems. I had some very clever blokes in garages around here .
 

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I Got the daughter a cracking KIA RIO 14 diesel.Same crack,I sent it to my local garage has i dont fuck about with daily s,I just said put a clutch in it,When i picked it up .the chap said i hope you aint had a new clutch in it for the reason of the low bite,Because its just the same with a new clutch in.I was pissed off but it was done on my say so.The mechanic said something about welding a small spacer on it 14 plate welding spacer on piston rod
 

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many years ago i replaced a complete clutch on a Austin 1100 and it ended up worse than before i started even after adjusting everything was told by a main dealer to lengthen the push rod on the "hydraulic bit " s cylinder
 

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I did a citroen BX with the same problem, and after a complete new genuine clutch, then a cable, it turned out that the pedal box was flexing a bit because of a tiny split, causing the lost travel. That car was about a year old at the time. All the others I did were caused by master cylinder problems or pivot pins wearing through the release arms.

If the pushrod being extended cures the problem when nothing else has, then that's the way to go IMHO.
 

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I had this problem with my Kia ceed . It was the master cylinder . But even fitings a new one it doesn't seem to move much fluid . Was very hard to bleed was going to make up my own with aftermarket master cylinder . But it's been working ok ����
 

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Just for the record. Has the clutch operates the clutch fork bends ever so slightly.

The system has no adjustment and relies on the Slave cylinder taking up the slack in the arm.

The cure is to remove the box straighten and strengthen the clutch fork and build it all back up.

The bodge is to lengthen the slave cylinder rod by 10mm which moves the biting point making it a little more drivable.

This is based on actual work carried out and not the GOOGLE WORKSHOP.

DC
 

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Anyone have any experience of clutch issues with Kia's or Hyundai's? The problem seems to affect both and affects my parents 2013 Kia Ceed 1.6CRDi.

The bite point is so low to the floor that you have to try and shove the pedal through the floor to select a gear, it's getting a bit much for my step-father at the age of 86! The car is low mileage (50K) and they bought it when it was 5 years old with 36K on the clock. A friend has checked the registration number and discovered that the car has had TWO new clutches before my parents had it, making me suspect that the Kia dealer tried in vain to sort this. Looking on the various forums it seems to be a very well known issue with no apparent cause. It seems to affect both Kia and some Hyundai models at random.

There are a few bodge fixes quoted online involving removing the clutch damper to improve the pedal travel but I'm curious if anyone on here has any real-world experience of this before they go to the expense of changing the car.
Change the master cylinder. I had the same issue. Replaced it, bingo, clutch back to full travel
 
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