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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After finishing the mid-engined roadster,
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I was busy day dreaming about other unusual cars built in the 50/60’s and was taken by the big aircraft engined cars taking to the drags, not having a V12 to hand, but a couple of spare Rover V8’s. My thoughts turned to joining them together, just to get the visual of a big engine and just to see if I could do it. I know it’s been done plenty of times, but never by me!
A bit of time on the lathe and I came up with these
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Add a u/jthat looks like it could work, at least in theory
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Next was to build a test rig just to test the theory you understand. A spare T chassis was brought in and parallel chassis rails built within it, just to see if I could get them running.
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Get them all square, got the front engine running fine driving the empty ( except crankshaft) rear engine, no problems, next build up the rear engine and got them both running together.
And that was it, I’d done it, itch had been scratched. But where to store the stuff, may as well store it in the chassis.
Problem is there’s no rear axle. Ah well I’ve an A rolling chassis.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Having decided to run two engines there was no way that a standard rover gearbox would take the power of even a pair of standard Rovers. Having a TH350 and a blank adapter plate, it was time do do some more measuring.
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got a bit of lathe work done to the flywheel and it all fitted up to the mm.

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only problem is that it was mm perfect, no room for expansion of the torque converter, just another problem to overcome.
Having got that out the way, next was to work out how to connect it to the rear axle. Wanting to keep the wheelbase close to that of a Model B, it would have to be a very short prop or direct to the rear Jag axle. As it’s a budget build, not wanting to use a dragster coupler, a bit or research and I discovered that a Land Rover hardy-spicer would connect the Th350 yoke direct to the Jag axle, at a fiver that’s a result!
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got the chassis in the garage, but the chassis rails were too high and the wheelbase was too short.
Mmm this is getting a bit more complicated. Still I could use the front and rear axles and crossmember.
some metal ordered and a frame table welded up and levelled off. Got the crossmembers welded in n place with a 109” wheelbase.
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Bent some tubes to connect the front and rear bits.

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so that’s the basics of the chassis or “rolling engine storage” done. Time to move onto another project for a bit, or:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
May as well get the engines mounted, back to the problem of no room for the torque converter to expand, if I get a 3mm mid plate, that would give me the space for expansion and mounting points. Some bits of plywood later and I’ve got patterns made for front and mid plates. CNC cut, 4 for £90 can’t be bad!
Sleeve Grey Floor Road surface Wood

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so that allowed the engines to be fitted, front engine flat and down the centre line, rear engine angled down 5 degrees and at a slight offset for the gearbox yoke to match the input shaft of the diff. The use of u/j’s didn’t happen by accident!
I got a seat out of the “Haggis Hunter” slingshot and mounted it above the Jag rear crossmember, that’s when I hit another problem, it put the driver too high and there was no leg room. That would mean extending the chassis by a good few inches and getting a prop shaft built. That would be two things I didn’t want to do. I intend to eventually cover the chassis with a 32 sedan body, a 3 inch increase in wheelbase is easy to lose, a 10 inch increase, not so much.
 

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"got a spare Rover V8’s. My thoughts turned to joining them together, just to get the visual of a big engine and just to see if I could do it" ,
love the matter of fact attitude on this already keep posting
 

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don't forget to mill the 3mm (plus a gasket thickness) off of the back of the timing covers. if not the back of the crank pulley may touch it and the pulleys will be out of line by 3mm as the timing cover (and hence water pump) will be forward by that amount.
on mopar v8's the front plate mounts between the water pump and timing cover so the same thickness must be taken from the timing cover where the pump bolts on for just that reason.
you probably already have this in hand but just in case......
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
don't forget to mill the 3mm (plus a gasket thickness) off of the back of the timing covers. if not the back of the crank pulley may touch it and the pulleys will be out of line by 3mm as the timing cover (and hence water pump) will be forward by that amount.
on mopar v8's the front plate mounts between the water pump and timing cover so the same thickness must be taken from the timing cover where the pump bolts on for just that reason.
you probably already have this in hand but just in case......
neil.
Thanks Neil, I hadn’t thought of that, always good to have a second set of eyes to point things out.
I do nearly all the work on my own, so usually don’t catch these things until after they have happened. You saved me a couple of gaskets there(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So after a bit of thinking and having been offered a Ford 8 inch rear axle, I decided to give it a try. After a bit of research I discovered that the Land Rover hardy-spicer could be used to mate the GM gearbox to the Ford axle. Who’d have thought!

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So out came the Jag rear crossmember and diff. The bare rear axle was welded to the jig at ride height and some more thinking time was called for. A set of slingshot axle mounts were ordered. This does away with the rear suspension, so beach drag racing is out, but a sealed surface should be fine.
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This meant I had to redesign the rear chassis, which was actually a good thing as I wasn’t really overly happy with the old design, I thought it would flex.
So a deep breath was taken, out came the grinder and the bottom rail cut off. A couple of new tubes bent and offered up.
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That looked better, so next was a couple of uprights to mount the axle.
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All this was just tacked in as I still didn’t know if I’d have leg room or if I’d still need to extend the chassis. Rear engine and box in and a quick measure up. The modifications had dropped the seat about 5 inches and I had leg room, so I could stay at 109” wheelbase.
Plenty of room between the front engine and front crossmember,
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plenty of room for the front pulley and a blower drive maybe.
Although I plan to put a full sedan body on it, I’ve got a sawn in half T body, so I threw it on there, it’s supposed to be built from bits I have lying around.
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Again it’s just to visualise things, but I may use it to start with who knows!
As you may have gathered these pictures aren’t in real time, I started with the thought last November.
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Nothing new under the sun, It’s all been done before!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Some slingshot dragsters have the gearbox direct to the diff in a live axle, so no rear suspension.
To be honest I’m just going with things I think will work, they may not, but it’s just for a bit of fun hopefully safely!
 

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Having built a FED ,front engined dragster make sure you have a diff safety plate and gear box explosion cover . Last thing you want is bits of diff stuck in your arse or gearbox in your legs . Ask Don Garlits !!
 

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richard rawlplug
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296 moon built a buick twin engine FED on here a while back..
 

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richard rawlplug
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Some proper clever stuff going on in this thread.

Any reason why a solid axle instead of an independent.

My advice on the gearbox mount os to do ot so it can be shimmed.

I did a simular set up recently ,axle to box was a single u joint like youres.when the box bolts were hand tight,you could turn the yoke by hand freely.once bolts wete tightened down you could feel resistance on the joint.

Something like a 0.5 mm shim raised the box enough so yoke turned easily by hand once tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Budetta- I plan to make the seat base, floor and trans tunnel out of 3mm steel so hopefully that should be strong enough.

Torment- cheers for the link, I’ll have to go back and look again, you can never get enough information.

Nobody-Cheers, there’s certainly been a lot of thinking gone into it! I originally had it IRS as that is what I had, but I just couldn’t get the seating position right in the wheelbase I wanted. When I was offered the 8” axle it just worked better and rebuild costs were minimal compared to the Jag. I’ve left most things a little loose to allow for the inevitable adjustments that will be needed.

im a little further on than the last pictures, but being pretty much a computer dunce I don’t find posting easy. it takes me about an hour each post. So I’ll try and get another update soon.
 

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I would go thicker than 3mm over the diff , I have seen them punch a hole through axle case so just over the crown wheel it needs a safety strip of 6mm and a strip over the u/j as well .
 
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