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If I remember correctly we used to assemble without shims and check with feeler gauge , well thats the way the gaffer did it and they were engineers and Jag nuts!! It was 45 years ago though-----------
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
If I remember correctly we used to assemble without shims and check with feeler gauge , well thats the way the gaffer did it and they were engineers and Jag nuts!! It was 45 years ago though-----------
Yes, thats pretty well what I have read up & the videos on how to do it agree - only a dial gauge is better/easier than feeler blades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Tonight was a better night, much cooler so easier to work
:)


Seat frames that were finished yesterday;



Then it was on to a bit more painting. Primer goes on to the bootlid gutter and also tha last bit of wing that I reprofiled.



Then it was a change of colour primer for the seat frames;



And a quick lick over the welded clutch pedal, these will get sanded and painted better at a later date.



I painted the grill shell in grey, but as I was also using black I very roughly did the grill in black to give Phil an idea how the final colours will look like.



301 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
The rear wing on the passenger side tucks in a bit at the back edge, so it needs a bit of stiffening up. The piece of wood is holding it at the correct position.
Some foam was cut into a triangular shape & bonded on with Tiger seal.



Then some fibreglass was laid over it, only a couple of layers so far, it will need several more to get to full strength.



Then it was back to bodywork. The drivers side gutter was smoothed off enough for a coat of primer to see where we are at. Passenger side needs a bit more work before primer can go on. It looks good in the photo but it needs a lot more work to get it to flow nicely from the roof profile into the gutter - it's a bit flat at present.



And we have not seen the rear lamp housing for a while, but it's almost done now.



304 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
A good day today on the car - Phil went home looking like a chimney sweep
:D


Phils job for the day was to strip the remaining floor under the boot of underseal & paint/rust. He also removed the gearbox crossmember so he could clean up the last part of the underfloor behind the crossmember.

I give him all the best jobs
:D
(rofl)
:D
(rofl)


While he was cleaning up the floor I laid some more glass on the foam ribs on the rear wing.



hopefully this will be strong enough tomorrow to take the wing off and glass it all the right way up!

I cleaned up the crossmember while Phil was grinding away;



The boot floor is cleaned up & ready for degreasing and rust killer.



And the rest of the floor, not far off getting some primer on it.



Phil also cleaned up & ground back part of the chassis where it had been plated many years ago, I then fully seam welded the lower edge where it appeared to not have been fully welded originally.

I think that is the last bit of repair welding done on the car now (apart from the sills) any other welding will be if we want to fabricate anything new.

While Phil was getting covered in rust & underseal I worked on the front inner wings, cleaning them up after rust treatment and making a start on matching them to the front A posts.





Starting to match nicely.



309 hours.
 

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will you re block sand the rear wings (outside) where you've glassed the foam ribs inside? i've found it can 'pull' the outside out of true in the past when you do that.
neil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Yeah, good shout - I know what you mean, it can pull stripes in the glass. I think it also depends on how thick you lay the glass on in one go, if it's thick it can get quite hot when it cures which would make it worse.

I've only done thinner layers (as it's not easy glassing upwards) so hopefully no pulling at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
no shit sherlock

why would you put filler on stuff like cross members,suspension parts,pedals etc
Thought you meant the lamp housing.

Pedals will only get a blow over - to powder coat would need dissasembly so not worth that as they are not seen.
Personally I'm not keen on powder coating - great when its complete, but get a stone chip & water leeches under it and everything rusts behind it.
Paint only rusts where the chip is. Much cheaper for me to paint as well, personal preference though.
 

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i cant work out where you get youre experiances from.

powder coat like paint is only as good as the prepwork. plenty of nice paintjobs are rusty as fook two years later.

i had a truck in recently,built about 10 years back,used every week. painted chassis was rusty,all the powder coated bits were as when it when it left here,but a bit duller.

shouldnt believe everything you read on the net. you can also have primer coats put on under powder coat.


take that gearbox crossmember. you got to strip it, prime,it,paint it, and finish it in about 15 minutes to make it as cost effective as powder. its only cost afective for the owner as youre not charging
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
You see it different to me though, sometimes the journey is more important than the destination. You are a business so time is crucial, for me it's all about the enjoyment of doing it, so time does not matter.

Good powder coat is good, but if it is not 110% bonded with the parent part it will leech water through any imperfection. Yes, it's far more durable than paint I agree, but both materials have their shortcomings. I've had plenty of powder coated parts with lots of rust underneath - (mainly bought parts though).

Last night I sanded a bit, put some filler on, sanded some of it off again, put some more on and painted a bit.
And ate some wine gums, yum
:)


315 hours.
 

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Ohh wine gums ,the black ones are the best( shh can we say black now a days, some one may get upset) , looking good though, I wish you did my prep work!!.
 
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