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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
esterdays and tonight's work was finishing cleaning the insides of the door, sanding stuff down & putting filler back on......again
B-|


The door as of last night, cleaned up, welded where necessary and treated with the first coat of hydrate 80.



Tonight it got more treatment of hydrate 80 in the areas I could not reach when it was flat. Upside down it was fairly easy to get into the very top of the door and into the window channel areas. I'll leave that to cure for a few days and it can then be primered.



Next was sanding the A posts again together with the bonnet. More filler then got applied where necessary. While that was drying I got around to applying the last bit of seam sealer under the car where it was needed and then the bonnet sides got seam sealer applied in the joint between the bonnet top and sides. The paint will always crack in this joint as the bonnet flexes so much when its opened & closed, but with the P/U sealer in it at least water will never penetrate into the joint again as it remains flexible.

It's the black line between the panels in the photo. After applying this I put yet more filler on the bonnet sides. This will get sanded back tomorrow.





Phil will smile at the next photo, there were some holes in the bottom of his dashboard where the switches were mounted originally. You could not see them when it's fitted so they could have been left. I had already glassed over them on the inside of the dash where I had strengthened it.

But I could not leave them, ha-ha! so they got glassed in as well and filler applied on top
:P


While I was sanding that area I started flatting off the rest of the dash in preparation for primer. This revealed several low spots, so they are also skimmed over here.



389 hours.
 

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Brading, that was because I already had some topcoat on those bits so it was pointless to cover them with primer again as its only the door inside.

Enfo.
I do have an air fed mask system but for smaller stuff I use a 3M 06941 mask combined with the extractor. The extractor shifts 3490 (m3/h) so works well. I only filter the incoming air if Im doing big areas of topcoat - but then I've only painted my own car with 2K before in a different garage with a similar setup.

It's not filtered over the fan but it exits at the end of a long garden away from anyone else, and painting only takes a couple of minutes so not too much of an issue as I dont do it very often.
Thanks for the reply. I have an extract fan that will shift 7000(m3/H) but the filter will slow that down a bit. I feel confident that will do the job. I have the same flexi sanding blocks as you but found getting the sticky backed sanding paper difficult, so converted them with velcro to take Mirka Abranet which I really like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Enfo,

I've been searching for the conversion to velcro for ages - where did you get them from?
I'd love to use the Abranet sheets instead.

You have a very powerful fan! The rule of thumb is the extractor should empty the volume of the workshop in under 60 seconds. If you work out your workshop cubic metre volume and divide the hourly fan volume by 60 it will tell you the answer.
 

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Enfo,

I've been searching for the conversion to velcro for ages - where did you get them from?
I'd love to use the Abranet sheets instead.

You have a very powerful fan! The rule of thumb is the extractor should empty the volume of the workshop in under 60 seconds. If you work out your workshop cubic metre volume and divide the hourly fan volume by 60 it will tell you the answer.
I figured if the fan was too powerful I can always fit a speed controller.
Velcro I bought from here Home you can just buy the hook half by the mtr.
I'm also trying these as a little cheaper than Abranet BAXT NS9 Ceramic Net Sanding Strips 70 x 420mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
Dashboard is now flatted back - you can see all the low spots filled with filler so not as flat as it appeared.



I got bored with sanding & filler so thought Id change tack, what's this? masking tape & paper???



Ooh! underside of car is now mostly stonechipped
:)
Maybe now I can think about getting the diff back under the car as it's in the way a lot of the time. Of course that means getting it cleaned & painted first.......





I'll inspect it later today & marvel at all the bits I've missed
:o
& wonder how it was not obvious when spraying it on
:P


391 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Phil came over tonight with his spare bonnet to try. It fitted slightly better in places but was just as tight or tighter in other areas so not worth swapping over. He will now list it for sale.

Not much to show photo wise tonight. Masked the underside of the car a bit more and put another coat of stonechip on it - and covering up the bits I had missed :rolleyes:

Then it was more filler work with little skims over various areas that needed it. While that was hardening off I went over the dashboard with fine grade paper so it's ready for primer when I next mix a batch up.

Then I removed the bootlid and flatted it off with fine grade paper and cleaned it back for a trial topcoat. It does have some slight undulations in it still, but overall its better than I expected. It may well be good enough as it is, I'll bolt it back on the car tomorrow and see what the reflections look like in the correct orientation before I either sign it off or decide it needs more work.

Mmmmmm shiny......



393 hours.
 

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Is it safe to let Hannibal Lecter out, just to take your boot lid photo?



;)

Mark - Jokes aside, your attention to detail is staggering.

Phil's car is going to have an amazing car when you've finished with it.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Comparing your hours with TV shows makes me smile.

As, apparently, they can go from dog rough to super shiny 'overnight'. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
Mmm....gloss paint, goes lovely with a nice Chianti.... :D

Yeah, I see GMG or similar shows where they paint overnight and polish & build the car the next day, it's just not possible as the paint - even with accellerators in -will just not be cured enough for handling like that.

To be fair though, some shows do actually list 2,000 hours etc for builds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #353 ·
I popped the bootlid back on the car, seemed rude not to put some bits back on it for effect
:)


It's only a quick coat to see how flat it is and its a bit orange peely. It does show some slight undulations but I think I can live with them as most people wont even see it. The number plate will distract the eye from them as well. It still needs primer filler and proper prepping before the real topcoats go on.

I still have work to do on it as the inside still needs a full prep & paint and I'd like to close up the hinge gaps a little as well.

I sent the photo to Phil earlier, he's very happy with it.

 

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"Enfo.
I do have an air fed mask system but for smaller stuff I use a 3M 06941 mask combined with the extractor. The extractor shifts 3490 (m3/h) so works well. I only filter the incoming air if Im doing big areas of topcoat - but then I've only painted my own car with 2K before in a different garage with a similar setup.

It's not filtered over the fan but it exits at the end of a long garden away from anyone else, and painting only takes a couple of minutes so not too much of an issue as I dont do it very often. "

Glad someone else asked you and you replied as to what protective gear you use, as you only do small areas at a time. And I thought I had OCD.
Love the detail work as it has to be done (or it will on your conscience as a job still to finish).
 

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Black pop, can I ask where you got the bonnet tape/ seal from and can you still get the small rivets to go in the original holes?, like this in your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
Today I spent way too long fettling the bonnet fitting….again. Give me a fibreglass flip front any time!

As I wanted to clean up the bonnet strip mounting holes where I had opened them up to get the correct bonnet fitting I needed to get everything perfect before I modified the fixings. Here you can see how the fixing holes have been opened up.



I made up some new steel plates with the correct holes in them and these were welded in the correct place so everything fits properly.



And they got welded in to the screen scuttle & the top of the nose.





They look a lot better with some primer on them;





As does the drivers A post where I had to split it open and weld it for clearance on the bonnet.



Bonnet panels get a coat of primer over the filled areas, more work to do but they are getting there





A few other areas of the car got primed - a posts where filler is being finessed and the passenger door surround. The dashboard also got it's first coat as well.



Looking at the hours below I'm just about at 10 weeks work if it were a std 40 hour working week. Not bad since it's done after my normal working week and I got the car only 5 1/2 months ago.

398 hours.
 

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" Not bad " I would say bloody good Mark what with you daily job and other things you have had going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
Phil was meant to come over today, but he cried off as he had a hangover....lol
:)


Not much to show for today's progress. As the original dashboard had been cut out it had left the screen scuttle fairly floppy. It had been like this for some time without issue but I was not happy with it as it could cause the screen to leak if it moved. The glass dashboard stiffens it up nicely but that is not a load bearing structure so it needed to be fixed.

I had to fit the dash with some clocks to see where I could add any braces, so some time later I had made some up and welded them in. I had of course planned for the wiper tubing to fit behind them, it was not a lucky coincidence that it still fitted after I finished them at all. Nope definitely not.........



Dashboard back in to check all was well. It's now really solid, so happy with that.



The rest of the day was filler work and some seam sealing as well as bonding the reinforcing plates on for the bootlid hinges in the rear scuttle.

402.5 hours.
 
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