Only a few hours on this day as I was doing my stint at the vaccine centre again in the morning. After lunch it was time to see why my welding helmet was playing silly buggers. I bought a couple of batteries and this is the insides with one battery removed. They were spot welded to the tabs on the circuit board so I had to solder some fine wires to the new batteries to connect them.
Forgot to take more photos but pleased to say helmet now works perfectly again, repaired for £4.00
So......3 hours of welding & grinding & sanding later the bulkhead now looks like this;
Still got some holes to weld up and the square in the corner needs filling in, but I'm pretty pleased with that, a little skim of filler here and there and it should look pretty straight.
better than this at least!
As it was a welder day I welded some 8mm nuts to some penny washers, these will be welded into the rear wings to replace the captive nuts which are an odd thread and also quite a few are missing. We will bolt the wings on and when positioned correctly I can weld the washer part to the body again. Only had 22 of them to do
The fan on the radiator was mounted through the fins on Phil's car. This is a terrible way of mounting fans (even though the fan suppliers supply the kits) as the road vibration makes the fixings saw through the fins and cause rad failure.
We caught this one just in time, the vanes are quite damaged but the water fins are thankfully undamaged. I'll dress the vanes out as best I can before final reassembly.
To fix this I started by making these side plates and fitted some 6mm studs.
And this is how it will be mounted from now on;
Some strong tack welds (I'll weld it fully later) and it's done.
Next session I stripped the paint off the door, it really is remarkable condition for a 68 year old car. No rust at all!
After that I straightened out the rear parcel shelf and made some repair pieces for where the speaker holes had been cut right through. The speakers won't be going back but its not worth filling in the entire hole as it is covered with trim. It was very floppy before but it's pretty good now - aided by the fact the factory weld on one side had come undone, so that was welded up as well. Braced here during welding.
And welded - needs welds scurfing back yet.
After that I welded 7 of the holes up in the bulkhead - only about 30 more to go, lol!
So, cut the hole a bit bigger & make up a replacement panel complete with a bead hammered into it.
And tack it in.
As you can see from the tacks - the metal is thin and not easy to weld.
Lots more welding & filling holes later and it looks a (bit) better. You can see I also did some pinhole chasing on the bigger panel, welding from the inside.
I need some new flap wheels and Roloc discs, but they are still on route to me so the best I could do with some worn out wheels was this, but it's an impossible task without some new sharp discs.
Another job that I've started on is the door wedges. I did ask Phil if he wanted to convert to modern bearclaw latches but he preferred to keep to the original latch. The doors locate with alignment wedges - except they don't align! The wedges force the door upwards and make it difficult to close.
I have a bit of a plan for this though, so the original fixings were drilled out and the holes opened up to the limit of the dimpled recess. More to come on this in a future update.
Thought I'd give the neighbours a break & do a bit more welding.
Floor panels resemble swiss cheese!
And some considerable time later they now don't
Well, this side doesen't - the other side & the gearbox tunnel still do!
Had a break half way through & stripped the paint over the rear window;
Then spent some time trying to see where the door interferes with the A post. Think I've worked it out now, Phil had new lower A post sections welded in, but the guy has welded them a bit too far outwards so the door is pressing directly onto metal at the bottom front corner.
I think the solution is to slice the A post open to create about a 5mm gap, then close it up and weld it back together. More investigation needed first though.
Next night was a night off, but started back on it the next day. Phil came over to help and we got a fair bit done. Looking at the photos there is not a lot of visual progress to show you though.
I stripped a bit more paint off the passenger side before Phil arrived;
Then I tasked Phil to remove the steering column and the pedal box and brake master cylinder. Very empty inside now!
This will make it easier to get into the footwell to do some welding as well as protecting the stainless column for welding & grinding spatter.
We got the car up on the hydraulic jacks and spent some time working on the drivers door to see where the interference was. I an very pleased to say that with some grinding of welds and some hinge adjustment the door now closes with no more interference fit. It will still need some surgery to allow enough clearance for paint and a door seal but I now know where it is needed and the A post can be left alone.
We then drained the engine coolant and removed the radiator ready for engine removal next week.
Next we spent some time welding up yet more pinholes in the bulkhead, Phil with a powerful lamp on the outside with me looking for light holes on the inside & welding them up. We then worked together to weld up lots more drill/bolt holes in the bulkhead, again Phil on the inside holding the steel filler peices or the copper block depending on the hole size.
We then moved on to the floor doing yet more holes! We did not finish as we have run out of steel discs to weld in the holes, I'll need to punch more out next week.
Lastly Phil removed the front wheels to sort a slow puncture and to get a tyre reversed as it was fitted with the tread pattern backwards.
Next job was the roof.
As it started, the gutter around the fabric needed trimming back for clearance so the fibreglass replacement panel would lay flat against the roof.
Grindy grindy, noisy noisy, gutter is now on the floor;
We now find the rust I was expecting to find on a car of this age, the edge of the roof & roof insert gutters are in poor shape;
There was no way Phil could have kept the original insert, this is just a small section I have cleaned, the rest is not much better;
The new fibreglass 'fake' vinyl roof cover the gutters by approx 1" all around the roof so thankfully all we need to do is fully neutralise the existing rust and paint it as it will be under the new panel. This will be bonded to the roof with PU adhesive so will be fully waterproof.
I then stripped all the paint off the roof;
Which exposed the original seams with the lead loading on top;
Rear all stripped of paint;
And the new roof panel with the edge seal trial fitted on the roof;
I then finished stripping the paint on the drivers side - all completed now apart from a few corners the stripping wheel wont fit into.
Dash is trial fitted to see where it needs trimming to to sit flatter against the car;
I have now used 4.5 polystrip discs to get to this point, got another 5 on order which will finish the car hopefully.
Not sure Wayne, initially I thought a couple of months, but as it's got a bit more involved I guess it will be a bit longer. Phil would like it done for Popstalgia in Sept but I hope it will be finished before then.
A little progress when I got in from work, the 50mm Roloc discs arrived so I could grind stuff in corners more easily.
I thought I'd chisel off the filler over the gutter before dinner as the stripper disc had removed 90% of it already. This filler had been done by the rodshop before it came to me but I wanted to see what had been covered up to make sure whatever I paint wont go bad in 6 months.
Oh F*** It's a LOT worse than I expected
What is worse is the rodshop has sprayed over all the suspect(?) areas with some godawful rubbery silicon type underseal that is difficult to remove and will make any repairs 10 times as hard
This is what was bodged over;
You can see the awful grey rubber shit sprayed over it in the photo. Pretty pissed off with the bodge done here, even the filler was not stuck very well and the gutter was half full of the stuff in lumps.
Not a happy bunny tonight, if you can't do a job properly, then don't do it. This is going to be a pig to fix
Cleaned it up as best I could on the inside, but access is pretty restricted If it was not for the grey rubber shit sprayed all over it it would be basic finger sanding.
Passenger side not quite as bad, but its not too good.
Drivers side cleaned a bit;
as was passenger side;
Passenger side outside;
To console myself I stripped the whole of the passenger side of the car;
That's the whole car stripped now apart from door returns, door inner edges, bootlid gutters & roof gutters.
Then had another look at the roof. I pondered drilling out the spotwelds and removing the gutter, but I've heard that this often destroys the gutters.
Then I though about maybe spotwelding a shaped bit of steel behind it after chopping out the worst of the rust. This still would be really difficult to weld though and there is a lot of lead loading right by it.
I think I'm going to take the easy route and do a modern 'bodge' on it. I think with a lot of cleaning up and very careful removal of the top layers of rotten metal and a intensive dose of Hydrate 80 that using modern epoxy panel bonding adhesive I can bond new steel inside the roof to make it solid again. This avoids the welding and lack of access to grind welds back - not to mention any distortion and the fact that the metal is paper thin.
The gutters themselves are in really good condition, its the bodywork behind them that has rotted so although it's not a perfect solution it should be good enough to last another 20 years if I do it properly.
The next session was spent cleaning up the rotted areas, all the awful gunge was stripped off the inside back to bare steel and the outside was carefully attacked with the 1mm cutting disc to slice out the expanded rotted out gutter skin to expose the rotted roof layer underneath.
This was then stripped back with a big rotary wire wheel dug in as hard as I could to remove all the loose rust and any caked in rust. The roof channel also received this treatment - exposing yet more filler stuffed in rust holes and covered in the grey rubbery gunge again
The whole lot got treated with a good dose of Hydrate 80 worked into all of the nooks and crannies.
Been doing research and 3M do a nice structural bonding adhesive that will be total overkill to do the roof repairs. Will need to get some ordered.
I also got a little box of electrical components for the wiper delay - did not realise it was a self assembly circuit board kit, still - it will be fun to make.
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