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Thanks for this, (sorry for the hijack) currently I am only painting small bits, no body panels (don’t have any). But I do need to replace the old budget spray gun, just so looking at my options.
  • Replace the old spray gun with a new budget one and continue to use cellulose paint. (until the body is finished and then get new kit)
  • Upgrade now to 2 pack paints which requires increasing the budget to cover new gun, air filter plus PPE kit (air fed mask etc.)
  • Look into using water based paints (not sure this method would work in a domestic garage?)
Thanks Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Water based needs air powered driers - so another investment there for not a big gain over conventional basecoat & clear.

Epoxy primer is not isocyanate based, so air fed mask is not essential for that, though good extraction and a good quality mask is.
Basecoat is just base paint colour & thinners, so again no special PPE required for that apart from good extraction & mask.
Clearcoat is 2 pack - so yes PPE required for that, but again good extraction is paramount.

This is a good little budget touch up gun, ideal for spot repairs or epoxy primer (if thinned properly) Voylet Touch-Up Gun Professional Series * Tested by us for value and performance go for the 1mm tip.

This looks to be a nice gun for general painting and still at the upper end of budget, big enough for doing a wing or door if required but small enough again for spot repairs. 1.3mm tip is just enough for the bigger panels but still small enough for controlled tiny chip blow ins. DeVilbiss SLG-610 Conventional Solvent Spraygun (1.3mm) *Low Air Consumption*

This is it's slightly posher brother - again a 1.3 tip, but you could also buy the 1.8 tip & aircap and they could be swapped over when doing primer jobs as 1.8 is perfect for this. That would be a nice universal setup. DeVilbiss SLG-620 Gravity Feed Spraygun * Refined SLG budget gun

If you try 2 pack you will never go back to celly, it's just so much better to use.
 

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Water based needs air powered driers - so another investment there for not a big gain over conventional basecoat & clear.

Epoxy primer is not isocyanate based, so air fed mask is not essential for that, though good extraction and a good quality mask is.
Basecoat is just base paint colour & thinners, so again no special PPE required for that apart from good extraction & mask.
Clearcoat is 2 pack - so yes PPE required for that, but again good extraction is paramount.

This is a good little budget touch up gun, ideal for spot repairs or epoxy primer (if thinned properly) Voylet Touch-Up Gun Professional Series * Tested by us for value and performance go for the 1mm tip.

This looks to be a nice gun for general painting and still at the upper end of budget, big enough for doing a wing or door if required but small enough again for spot repairs. 1.3mm tip is just enough for the bigger panels but still small enough for controlled tiny chip blow ins. DeVilbiss SLG-610 Conventional Solvent Spraygun (1.3mm) Low Air Consumption

This is it's slightly posher brother - again a 1.3 tip, but you could also buy the 1.8 tip & aircap and they could be swapped over when doing primer jobs as 1.8 is perfect for this. That would be a nice universal setup. DeVilbiss SLG-620 Gravity Feed Spraygun * Refined SLG budget gun

If you try 2 pack you will never go back to celly, it's just so much better to use.
Thanks for the advice and recommendations. Since Epoxy primer/basecoat are not isocyanate based means I can build up the kit in stages since most of my current work will be using primer. Looking at DeVilbiss GPi or DeVilbiss GPG fitted with 1.8 tip and aircap to start with (I can get the 1.4 later) Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
Thanks for the advice and recommendations. Since Epoxy primer/basecoat are not isocyanate based means I can build up the kit in stages since most of my current work will be using primer. Looking at DeVilbiss GPi or DeVilbiss GPG fitted with 1.8 tip and aircap to start with (I can get the 1.4 later) Andy
That's a good plan.
I recommend the 3M 06941 mask for painting - it must be put back in the airtight sealed bag after use and if you can smell paint through it it must be discarded immediately. It has a limited lifespan when used in open air so be prepared to change it after say 2-4 hours of accumulated use.
I must stress though - whatever protection you use - extraction is EVERYTHING. If its not in the air around you then the PPE then becomes secondary rather that your first protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
Flanges now got the last layers of 600grm matt bonded on tonight. Original flanges were not wide enough in places to actually reach the bolt holes, and the rest of them were only about 1- 1.5mm thick.
These would have cracked in no time. They are now 4-5mm thick, I will add another layer or 2 of 300grm matt across the whole of the wings to add extra rigidity as they are thin in places.





455 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Not much to photo at present, rear wings are now full glassed on the inside and flowcoat added to the outside. Some small external areas need building up and I need to add a stiffening rib on the drivers rear wing.



More steel bits being made. The little squares will be made into trim tabs for fixing the rear side panels and also the front kick panels. The longer angles are me having to revisit the bootlid gutters as the sides of the gutters are about 10mm away from the bootlid. I will need to add new sides profiled to be a regular 3mm away so the rubber seal fits perfectly watertight.

More on these soon.



457 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #411 ·
Today was a good day
:)


One lay up of glass, one of flowcoat and 2 loads of filler went on the rear wings and they are almost done. I think the flange is thick enough now
;)

This is one of the thickest parts at about 8mm.




While I was waiting for the glass/flowcoat/filler to go off I was making the trim panel tabs. All drilled out and joggled here;



And they are welded on here;



and here;



And smoothed off;



I also added 2 earth studs behind the dashboard, always good to have dedicated earth points for the electrics. I'll probably add another couple at the back of the car and in the engine bay.



461 hours
 

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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
A bit less progress today as I went to visit my friend Geoff who is also building a Pop. He was having trouble with poor fitting rear wheel arches and wanted some advice about modifying them to fit. After an hour or two of chatting about how to fit them and also various things on his car I returned to work on Phils.

A lot of fitting rear arches and taking them off again ensued as I had glassed over some of the fixing holes as they needed a bit of repositioning. Tedious & time consuming work but eventually all the holes were sorted and the wings refitted.

Once they were fitted it was time to get some primer down on the trim tabs and other areas that needed doing. One of the bigger areas was the inner wheelarches and boot panels that Phil had stripped back the other day for me.



Arches are almost there, drivers side is good, passenger side still needs a bit more work where I have extended it, rear arches are almost done now. Drivers side shown here;



464.5 hours
 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
One of the bits of fabrication left to do was the folded strips of metal a few posts back. These have now been shrunk/stretched so they fit the sides of the bootlid gutters. This is to extend the lip so it sits uniformly approx 3mm from the bootlid all around. With a 5mm seal this (ought) to be watertight.

Shame I did not realise the gaps were so off when I was repairing the gutters a few months ago
:(




I was going to weld these on but I decided to bond them on with Tiger seal, they are bonded on 2 planes both shear & tension so I think this should be strong enough even though the bootlid seal will be pressing on them. I might add a few small tacks but I don't think they will be necessary.

I could only bond one side tonight as I don't have enough of the right type of clamps to do both sides, so I'll bond the other side tomorrow.



I'll need to make some more bits to go around the corners to blend into the top edge - the top lip is close enough to the bootlid as it is so that part does not need extending. These small bits probably will get partly welded.

466.5 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Not much visual progress tonight. The other piece of gutter is now bonded on. The first piece is rock solid, so thats good.



I cut some more steel and folded & stretched it to shape for both top corners. These will have to wait for the clamps again so will be bonded on tomorrow.



Then it was filler time again, last skim goes on the passenger rear wing - another boring photo of a bit of filler - sorry!



I spent the rest of the evening re-welding a couple of the trim tabs on the A posts as they had not penetrated very well and having a tidy up in the garage to create some room & get all the filler & grinding crap out of the corners.

468.5 hours.
 

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I cant work out how the garage is so clean when you do sanding work.

The few times i do ot,it covers just about everything
I recon Mark pushes outside Wayne, my garage is full of cutting disc grit, metal filings and filler, even after cleaning its horrid... :)
 

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It's the extractor Wayne, it sucks most of the dust out before it hits the floor. Any dust on floor gets blown down towards the extractor with the air line. I also sweep up as I go for the worst stuff.
Mind you, outside the garage is a bit on the whitish side from filler dust till it rains :D
I bet your neighbours sometimes think its snowing, with all that whitish stuff flying around. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #419 ·
It's not very noticable - mostly a bit dusty for about 6 feet outside my garage door on the floor. Extractor is low down near the floor so the dust is not in the air.
I have excellent relations with my neighbour - we go out to dinner with them quite often.

Lots of visual progress tonight but not so much actual progress yet.

The corner pieces are now bonded on and curing.





Then I bolted the front wings back on to see how they fit & what more work is required. I'm very pleased to see that they actually fit pretty good
:)




Gaps are nice and tight between wing and body;



However the rear parts of the wings are going to require surgery. This is the drivers side from the top, its sticking out about 10mm beyond the body at the sill.



Another view from behind shows the gap better. This might be a simple fix by sectioning the flange further up so I can bend the bottom of the wing in to the car or it might be that I have to cut the end of the wing off and reposition it in the correct place & join it back together again.



Passenger side is similar but not as bad, some slicing & splicing required here too.



And a photo for Phil so he can remember what his car looked like.



471 hours.
 

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Just wanted to say the attention to detail is staggering! Inspiring me to do better, or in fact anything at all 🤣 need to sort myself out an industrial unit I think.
 
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