Rods 'n' Sods - UK Hot Rod & Street Rod Forums banner
521 - 537 of 537 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Happy new year to you BPR and thanks for all the posts - great stuff. Most interesting logging the time: just shows how long stuff takes to do properly.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #522 ·
Ahoy m'hearties!! I trust we all had a good shanty on the decks with a few kegs of rum!! Arrggh!!
P-)

None of that sore headedness, back to work boys! raise the mainsail yer rabble of misfits, we got treasure to find!

^^^ sorry about that, Cap'n Pete goldfinch found my laptop logged in and had a play
8D


Progress this year
8-)
is the bonnets were flatted back and 2 more coats laid on them. While they were drying I started working on the boot hinges, smoothing the edges off and going over the chrome lightly with the flap wheel to get rid of the rust and to give a key for the epoxy primer when they get painted.

I had a play with my temp sensor on the painted panels in front of the infra red heater, 22 degrees on the surfaces that were 90 degrees to the lamp, 38 degrees at the bottom of the panels and 50 degrees at the top of the panels - that should cure them very nicely
:)


No photos as they look the same as last years
;)


605.5 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
When the managers at work try and solve a problem by throwing manpower at it I always quote "you can't get a baby in one month by making nine women pregnant"

Also, there is a chap on another forum I follow that restores minis for a living. He as a trangle drawn on his wall with the points labelled Good, Cheap and Quick. The customer is invited to chose any two of them. Like That!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #526 ·
I only did a little on Phil's car today. I tidied up a bit of filler I had added to give more definition around the O/S boot hinge recess and refitted the bootlid in preparation for grinding back the gutter edges all around the lid to give a uniform gap of about 3mm for the boot weather seal. That will be a tedious job to do
:|
for sure.
Happy with the gaps around the lid though, not perfect - but they never were from new and this is far better than std.




606.5 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Looking amazing! It's also making me think, red oxide primer and some sealer for mine, the time spent on this is giving me the fear (of never finishing) o_O
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #528 ·
I started trimming back the bootlid gutter tonight to get a uniform gap all around for the boot seal, but I could not get the top right corner of the bootlid to sit flush to the body, it was too flat and did not really curve enough to match.

I had hoped originally that the boot catch would pressure it enough to pull it tight, but the bootlid was just too flat. I thought I had finished the fibreglass work.........
O_o


Mr angry grinder had to come out to play again, 2 slits were made to allow the bootlid to flex;



The areas were ground out and the top section has got the first section of glass bonded back in, suitably bent into a curve with special weights
:P
(rofl)
while it sets.



While that was curing I started stripping the old paint off the bonnet catch mechanisms, I've left them in a thinners bath to hopefully dissolve the paint in the areas the stripping wheel cannot get to.



608.75 hours
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #529 ·
Tonight started good but ended up being really annoying.

Started by stripping and getting the bootlatch to work and fit properly. It was about 4mm off axis to the boot latch and although it worked it was stiff and stressing the latch fixings. A bit of finessing the latch edges (grinding off,lol) and reshaping it a little got it lined up nicely and the boot latching smoothly.

I then saw that the split I had put in the side of the lid and bonded up was in fact not correct and needed to be split open again to get the correct curvature. Wth this split open I ground the rest of the gutter edge to get a nice 2.5-3mm gap all around the lip.



Bootlid sits nicely flush to the body on the corner now
:)




So, lets glass that split back up again. I had used the full 5Kg tin of Phils's resin on all the previous repairs, but I did have an unopened 1Kg tin spare that I can use instead. I got it out of storage and opened up the seal..................and it's set solid
>:D
Kind of suprised about that as I've had opened 5kg tins on the shelf for over 10 years and it's still been usable.

It's a real pain as I wont get the new resin delivered before next Tuesday so it's a major hold up on that job as I was hoping to get the bootlid finished and possibly painted by the end of the weekend.

610.5 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #530 ·
As I could not do any fibreglassing** today I got on with a few other jobs instead.

** more on that later in the post.

The boot lock should be held in with 4 bolts, as you can see Phils is only held in with the lower two. There should be two more - one either side of the tongue latch. As these are very near the edge of the bootlid (they were designed for steel bootlids) I decided that one bolt would be sufficient so drilled a new fixing hole.



This had a 5mm rivnut fitted - you can see the original fixings in this photo.



And fitted back with a stainless flanged button head bolt.



I then started on the doors. I knew they were generally excellent and are 95% ready for topcoat, but I had spotted swollen returns on the bottom of the doorskins so I wanted to open them up and get rid of loose rust & treat them. Thety were a little worse than I expected
:(

Drivers door was the worst, outer skin is actually very good, the inner skin is a bit non existant in places. I'm not going to repair it, just treat it and fold the skins back again. They will be fully seam sealed inside & out before paint so properly treated should last quite a few years or longer without issue.





Passenger door a lot better;





They were all cleaned out and the inside of the doors also cleaned along the seam edge. A liberal coat of Hydrate 80 was then applied.



I have started on the filler work over the repaired glass so far as well;



And now I'm feeling a bit smug
:)
I retrieved the resin tin from the bin and had a look inside - there was still a little resin in the bottom. So I punched a hole in the bottom of the tin & left it to drain over the mxing tub while I was doing the door repairs. 20 minutes later there was nearly 50ML of resin in the tub
:)
yay!
Just enough to repair the bootlid, I got a couple of layers on the inside of the repairs as well.



613.5 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #531 ·
I took my pop out to the Bagshot breakfast meet this morning, nice to give it a run as it's not been out for ages.

This afternoon it was back on Phils' car.
I inspected the doors and carefully dressed the door skins back down. All went well on the passenger door, not so well on the drivers door. The inner skin on that one disintegrated when I dressed the outer skin down leaving a 10" strip of door flapping in the wind....oh dear.

I said I was not going to repair the doors...well that escalated fast, lol
::)




A while later it was all welded up and dressed back carefully. Nice & strong now.



I had got the passenger door fully smooth & flat a few months back but the drivers door was only 90% done as it was still on the car at the time. It was mostly there but a bit more filler work is needed to remove the last of the low spots.



While that was curing I blocked back the filler on the bootlid repairs - now ready for primer again;



Last job of the day was to give the bottom of the doors another dose of Hydrate 80, working it really well into the seams of the door skins on the inside and along the bottom of the doors, I want to make sure any rust is fully treated & encapsulated before I seal the seams up.

617.5 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #532 ·
Three companies/products I am happy to recommend in this post.

Deliveries arrived today, the fibreglass resin arrived early from CFS fibreglass, so good service there and a nice suprise in the box as well, a box of Clotted cream shortbread, nom,noms
:)




More paint arrived from CC Paints who I can highly recommend, good service and I really like the paint as well. They even phoned me today to check all was ok and that I was happy with their service.

With the filler sanded back on the door it was time for a bit more primer. I have been using this filler - Evercoat Rage Ultra, I bought it in error as I was after Evercoat Gold self levelling (the green filler in earlier posts) but I have to say I absolutely love it, its super smooth and it sands like a dream, absolutely no clogging of the paper at all. It really does what it says on the tin, including the sanding in 10 minutes (in a 20 degree workshop).




The drivers door is primed over the filler, looks pretty good but has some minor areas that will need a little more work.



Bootlid is primed over the repaired areas as well and the ground back bootlid gutter was also done.



Repaired section of door looking a lot better as well.



619 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #535 ·
Night off last night as it was our club meet, nice to go to a pub again. Back on it tonight though with a bit more Mojo back again.

I made these plates up at work with 5mm clinch nuts in them for the bootlid strap saddles.



Which will go here;



fixed behind the fibreglass with a countersunk rivet;



It makes bolting the saddles on a nice simple job.



Up inside the bootlid area got the same treatment;



together with the centre bar, this has had a big hole drilled in it as well. The rivnuts here (and the saddle ones in the previous photo) will hold an aluminium panel across the top of the boot (the same as my Pop) which will house two boot lamps. The hole is for the lamp switch to go through.



I started to seam seal the bottom of the doors, but ran out of Tiger seal so will need to pick a tube up tomorrow. It's a bit untidy as it's really difficult to get the gun in the door and some areas I just can't get the nozzle into so it's got to be applied with a narrow spatula.



Last job was to flat off most of the bootlid in readiness for topcoat this weekend hopefully.

623 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #536 ·
Phil came over today and sanded both doors down for me. We also ate nearly all of the clotted cream shortbreads shown earlier in the thread
:P
yum.

While Phil was sanding I made another retainer plate for the bootlid handle, this was bonded into the inside of the bootlid with some Tiger Seal.



Part of the brakes upgrade (I wanted to go tandem master cylinder, but it is not practical without a lot of work so we will go with refining the current system which has worked perfectly for the last 40 years) was to fit the extension reservoir which doubles the amount of fluid in the brakes.



I was sanding down all of the window apertures in readiness of painting the inside of the car, and also adapting the trim around the doorframe that the door seals nail into so it sat flatter around the door locks. Last job before we packed up was to finish off sealing the insides of the doors and we made a start sealing up the edges of the door skins on the outside.



627.5 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #537 ·
Progress for today. Garage and car had a good clean out and then I started masking up the body to put more primer the insides of the window frames. Many other holes got masked in preparation of painting the rest of the inside of the car as well.
Today was getting a decent thickness of primer on the inner window frames, door shuts and bootlid guttering.



And with the primer applied;



They will got scotchbrite'd back tomorrow and I'm hoping to get the inside of the car in gloss tomorrow night. Many other small parts got primed as well for the bonnet locks.

Before I did the primer I did a bit more filler work on the doors so they will be ready for primer later in the week.

Last job for today was the pedal assembly. Thr brake pedal has been hacked around in its life - re-shaped & probably shortened. Its shorter than the clutch pedal so that won't do. Cleaned up here ready for being cut up.



And after a bit of surgery with the angle grinder and some 3mm plate steel it's now a bit longer and lines up with the clutch pedal.



632 hours.
 
521 - 537 of 537 Posts
Top