Rods 'n' Sods - UK Hot Rod & Street Rod Forums banner

101 - 120 of 149 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Phil came over last night to check over the front metalwork, he was happy with it all and said it had never fitted that well ever before :) which was nice.

I did not post last night as it ended up being a late one in the garage (finished about 11.40pm) so will update tonight instead.

I realised looking at my posts that the bit of seam sealer I 'really' wanted to do - the seal between the boot hump & main body - I totally forgot to do, Doh!!

Anyway, the good news is that Phil has made the sensible decision to have the axle narrowed - yay! We will get new wheel arches (same size) first and mock up the tyres under them to make 100% sure of the correct amount of narrowing to be done - so this wont happen for a few weeks as Phil is away for a bit.

Well last night was more 1 step forwards and 2 steps back.

Having got the front sheet metal aligned pretty well, I made the mistake of undoing the drivers inner wing panel and I could not quite get it back as good as it was :( Spent an hour and a half fettling bonnet gaps and latches as well as adjusting fixings and got it pretty good now.

Chassis has been drilled for the new rivnut fixings for the inner wings and I spent some time with the radiator fitted to see where I could add some extra bracing for the nose section to stop it from moving (and chipping paint). Good news is there is plenty of room to build something.

A view of the rear axle showing the large amount of room between the tyre and the inner wing - no problems narrowing the axle at all.



And tonight I added the seam sealer in the boot/body joint thast I forgot to do before.



No more progress tonight as I'm visiting another rodder friend to help him paint his car where he has done some repairs.

130.5 hours.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,296 Posts
once you have the gaps where you want them do you drill any 1/8" 'location' holes through both panels so you can fit them back in exactly that spot on reassembly? i've done it with bonnet hinges to bonnet a few times, you just need to slip the blunt end of the drill bit into the hole and tighten the bolts knowing it's where it was before.
neil.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I got a few more hours in today, I stripped the bonnet, it looked perfect but when stripping a lot of filler got removed. I'm not sure why there was so much on it as it looks pretty straight underneath. There are some bad areas though.

I got the gaps pretty good in the end, though its stll a bit tight in this area. I might need to grind the edge back & weld it up again.



All looking good here, inner wing is partially stripped.



This is the worst part that was hidden by the filler, not quite sure how it got damaged like this in the past? note the rusted corner,



The corner was split & rusted out, so it's built up with weld here;



And cleaned back with a little radius on the corner now.



I'm happy with these gaps;



The rear lamp edge was rotted away, so I very carefully built it up with weld - the new welder makes this possible, my old welder would have just punched holes in it as its really thin. It looks messy because I could only literally weld for a fraction of a second or it would melt the metal away.



but it all ground down nicely so I'm pretty pleased with that.



Bonnet open shot;



There is nothing fixing the inner wings at the top apart from the outer wings, I will be making some tabs that will be welded to the bulkhead so the wings can bolt to these.



The bonnet is generally very good, but has split in the usual areas around the central hinge points, someone has already been here before with the welder but had not ground the welds down (lack of access) and had just covered them with filler. I got in as best I could with the Dremel but I'll need to use a finger sander to do the rest. It needs welding again so I'll need to be careful doing that. This is one of the rear splits/welds that needs work.



And the other one.



and one of the front joints that was previously repaired & filled over;



Where the top sections join to the sides is a common place to split, and this bonnet is no exception, more careful repairs needed here;



The next job involves one of my favourite tools :) the air powered 6mm steel Rivnut tool;



Rivnuts fitted to chassis so inner wings now bolt up nicely;



More tomorrow.

135.5 hours
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
Does that air powered rivnut tool pull the rivnut in tighter than a hand riveter and stop them spinning without having to put thread lock on the body?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
Lots of good work going on there, thanks for posting it all up. You seem to have a bottomless pit of energy!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Ian, you also seem to have similar amounts of energy!

More progress today, though not much to show for the time.

I made some brackets and welded them into the A posts so the inner wings now bolt up at the top. Does not look much but this took a fair time as these things often do. The inner wings are nice and solid now.





Then the rest of the afternoon was spent designing and making the front grill brace. Some flat bar and some old steel curtain rail got turned into a nice stiffener. It took a fair time as I had to crawl in under the car to get inside the nose area to measure/fit/weld as I cant move any of the sheet metal until all the fixings are completed. I have drilled small locator holes in the panels so I can use those to align it all again once its removed. The idea with the brace - apart from the stiffness it has added to the sheet metal is it also locates the front end.



141 hours.
 

·
phantom raspberry blower
Joined
·
794 Posts
great work Mark as usual. I was looking for this thread and it's taken me this long to find it. I'm definately looking forward to the rest and I can't wait to find out what colour Phil's going to use
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Cheers mate, glad you are enjoying it. How is your pop coming along?

Tonights work was taking the front metalwork back off and finishing off the welding on the tabs on the A posts. Then it was on to welding in captive nuts on the passenger A post. This was one of the better ones, I wont show the top one as I ended up chasing holes in the metal as its tin foil thin. I must admit though - that R-Tech welder is brilliant - you can just dial the power right down so it welds the thinnest of metals.



To give myself a break from welding I put on some filler in the 3 areas on the rear that need it;



And a good amount on the front bulkhead. I also put some over the recessed door push metal that I added in the A posts. I did this before welding the captive nuts, so I managed to rub most of this back down and get a second coat on before I packed up for the night.



Another small job was making some spacers to lower the fuel tank slightly as its a bit tight to the boot floor, these are 3mm thick polyproplyene sheet (1 or 2 per side - depending on what is needed) so wont rust out.



143.5 hours.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Quick 1/2 hour before dinner tonight, Phil has modern LED teardrop rear lamps, and while they work well they look pretty aneamic.



I managed to convince Phil :D that we could do better, so some red light tint was bought. Applied here I think it looks far better, a little polish to smooth the finish and they should look really good. They actually look better in real life as the camera can't capture the transparency of the red.



The lights shine through without any issue - so bright in fact the camera cannot tell its red sidelights and orange indicators that are lit up.



Another coat of filler was applied as well so I can rub that down later and hopefully get another guide coat of primer on top to assess progress.

144 hours.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,296 Posts
the lights are much better mark, i never liked those led rear lights myself but that's a big improvement.
neil.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #115 ·
It's a massive improvement Neil, I really disliked the transparent look - you cant beat proper red glass. The red coating has dried really clear now so I think they will look really good when finished.
Another couple of hours put in after dinner. Rubbed the filler down and then prepped several areas of the car ready for some primer.

The outer A posts got primed, as did the filled areas of the bulkhead, the inner front door jambs where I had filled them and also the inside of the dashboard area.







The rear of the car got primed over the filled areas and also the body seam where seam sealer had been applied. I did the whole of the rear valence as that needs a good going over with filler as its not quite as flat as it should be.



Front grill got spotted in where it needs some filler



And the leftovers in the gun got used for covering part of the floor that I had cleaned up & rust treated.



146 hours.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,296 Posts
looking good mate (y)
will you paint behind the dash are white before the dash goes back in? it makes it so much easier if you need to look behind the dash in the future as it's much brighter.
neil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,417 Posts
looking good mate (y)
will you paint behind the dash are white before the dash goes back in? it makes it so much easier if you need to look behind the dash in the future as it's much brighter.
neil.
Thats a good tip.


Mark are you not working at the moment.this pops getting done about a hundred times quicker than youres
 
101 - 120 of 149 Posts
Top