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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
it's just occured to me i may have a pushrod and rocker arm. the pushrod will be stock so i'll measure the length. if i've still got them you can have them for free mate.
neil.
If you have that would be perfect thank you.
Once you are sure, tell me how much it would cost to post please and I will send you the money via Paypal.
(Im not going to have access to a computer again until Monday after tomorrow morning,)
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
You need to find what's up with what you already have before chnaging even more stuff away from the tyre shredding spec you had . On ething at a time. Get an secondhand pushrod and rocker,use the tools you've been told to use give us the results on here and you have a wealth of peopel who DO know what they are talking about helping you for FREE!!

I've been messing with cars for over 45 years and I know others on here with similar experience and greater pedigrees .

If I was younger and healthier I would come down to your place , beat you about the head with your endoscope and then use it to tie your hands together whilst I fixed the thing for you !!! However you would have to watch and learn whilst I did it and explained what I was doing and why.
I do have the compression tester, but until it is safe to run the engine again I can't use it.
I wish someone was able to teach me, I would gladly learn.

Ive been reading am I right to understand that with big aluminium heads they don't start to flow well until you reach .500 lift or above?
Given that my cam is only 470 or 480 that seems to suggest that it never is able to make power?
So to make the most of my heads I need to create more lift to reach the .500 that it requires?

When the engine is running everyone says that it sounds amazing, but it doesnt have the lope that the Lunati cam had in it, and it doesnt have the oomph off the line.
I used to drive a Daimler Super V8 so I know what 400bhp feels like and this feels nothing like it.
 

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Yeah me too, have a load of em I believe but not in garage till Friday.
 

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No there doesnt seem to be a decent hotrod club in Southend that I can find.
But now I am happy that I've seen my high compression pistons are still in there.
The Endoscope was only cheap off ebay, and it is very useful, I now know that I don't have any damaged pistons.

I know that I could get it running again as it was before the rocker arm came loose, by simply replacing the single
pushrod and a single rocker arm, but I want to get the power back in the motor and that is what I'm going to do.

I have already spent thousands on this and I am going to get it right.

I did ask for recommendations for honest and reliable local mechanics in Southend, does anyone know of one?
hi there's a club in chelmsford called rebel rousers and run by steven dudley good bunch of blokes not too far for you give them a shout, they meet at bungalow diner colchester, think 2nd thursday of each month, look them up on facebook. plus they would know all the best people to help you in your area or close .
 

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You don't need the engine running to do a comp test . Remove all plugs , insert tester into spark plug hole crank for the count of 5 and look at the reading and write it down against the cylinder number . Clear the setting and move on to the next cylinder . This will show condition of piston rings , overall compression ratio, loss of individual cylinder compression ( the amount of which will in itself suggest a possible cause ).

Once you have a pushrod and rocker you can start the engine and use the vacuum gauge which will tell you things about valve sealing valve timing , ignition timing etc .Combined together an old hand will be able to see reasons for your issues.

A running engine and rev counter , will allow a stall speed test to tell you what your convertor is doing .

The correect tools and info will allow the more experienced to make EDUCATED guesses a sto cause and advise what further tests are required , if needed, to confirm.
 

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Just to add, it's not the numbers in the compression test that matter but that all cylinders should be within 10% of each other.
A good compression would be around 170Psi but if they were all 120 to 130psi that would still be ok.

What is not ok is if 7 are say 160Psi and one is 120 Psi.

Edit, as you are doing 8 cylinders the last ones will be a bit lower pressure as your battery will be flagging at this point.
 

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Just to add a compression test should be done on a full throttle setting.
correct, just wedge the throttle wide open then do all the cylinders. that way you don't pump fuel into the engine when applying full throttle for each one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Got a very busy week ahead this week, but I'm back anyway.
I need to check the studs on my Rocker arms to check what side they are, can I do it by noting the socket size that loosens the nuts on the rocker arms?

(I'm still after a single 7.8" pushrod and 1.5 ratio rocker arm if anyone has any old ones?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 · (Edited)
hi there's a club in chelmsford called rebel rousers and run by steven dudley good bunch of blokes not too far for you give them a shout, they meet at bungalow diner colchester, think 2nd thursday of each month, look them up on facebook. plus they would know all the best people to help you in your area or close .
Thank you for that information, when I get up and running I will look in to popping over.

(I'm still after a single 7.8" pushrod and 1.5 ratio rocker arm if anyone has any old ones?)
 

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I have rocker arms and pushrods mate, what's the address to send them to? Neil.
 

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I am not so sure that 0.100" of valve lift wrong would make so much difference from the hole shot , at higher RPMS yes but low down wheel spin grunt maybe not

with the new set up you have lowered the compression and reduced the cam duration so there will be a difference but how much ?


If it is that notable from the off it sounds more like the cam is out or timing out , whats the timing set at ? idle and total and have you checked it
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
I am not so sure that 0.100" of valve lift wrong would make so much difference from the hole shot , at higher RPMS yes but low down wheel spin grunt maybe not

with the new set up you have lowered the compression and reduced the cam duration so there will be a difference but how much ?

If it is that notable from the off it sounds more like the cam is out or timing out , whats the timing set at ? idle and total and have you checked it
Ive had the timing set and reset more times than I remember since.
As for the cam settings, I didnt fit it, someone else did and I don't know how to tell if it is out.
(It sounds like a very expensive thing to check too)

Shame because I've heard that you can advance or retard a cam to tune it for more torque or more horsepower, at this stage I would be pleased to tune it for torque and see if it makes a difference to the seat of your pants when driving...
 

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you can tune cams but I doubt yours has offset bushings to advance or retard it, yours will fit in one place and line up with the dots on the top and bottom sprockets and that's it.
 

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most decent aftermarket timing sets have at least 3 keyways to advance or retard the timing. you'd need to pull the waterpump, crank pulleys, damper, fuel pump if mechanical and timing cover. then you can check the cam timing.
 

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I would disagree with that Neil , most aftermarket timing sets aren't adjustable unless you start spending silly money on them, nearly everything under £100 has no adjustment in it. As you say though the only way to know for sure is to pull the timing cover.
 
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