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Robert, talked to a friend who works with polycarbonate. He advises 1500 paper with soap and water for deep scratches, then T cut for most of it, final polish with Duraglit. He does use a clean flame to polish edges, but warns that this puts stress into the material, which may not be a good idea in your application!
 

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Use headlight restoration process, wet 1500, then 3000 on a da, then polish compounds.
When done apply a clear body protection film that can be replaced in minutes at a later date if needed.

Or get some flat glass cut !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,487 ·
THank you EVeryone , very very encouraging !

in other news , i had a research sesh just now with the fuel injection , , it has a weird thing it is doing ,where ,when it should be richening , it starts leaning ...
in fact ... leaning off even when its too lean already ...

have a gander ....


the bottom rhs dials are mixture , the top rhs dials are the % of leaning off to the left , or richening to the right ,anything over 14:1 air fuel should be richening ,but oh NNNOOO the poxy thing ha a mind of its own !

[attachment=1]2020-07-15_16.47.52.mlg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]1st windscreen run.msq[/attachment]

thermal camera ..

engine 1 ..



engine 2..



i feel the irregularity of the pipe temps are down to throttles being slightly different , at tickover, not to mention engine 2 is trying to run on 17 to 20 :1 afr !

very very strange ,and baffling ,only appears to have started after fitting my slc wide bands from 14.7 with the 4.9 lambda sensors .

regards
robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,489 ·
Thanks Mark ,,er ,,i ,think lol.

new info , for my avid readers ;)

i compared a log with the old lm1 's to yesterday , and it appears it was doing this weird otherwordly behaviour with thm as well , here's a screenshot.



not sure how clear it is , but the fainter lines are the lm's.

next i did a test Graham suggested , where i barf a load of butane from my blowtorch ,up the pipes , to see if the sensors work in harmony with the ecu and dash read outs ..

bit wobbly vid of test ..


so now have ecu on table and testing it with the stim to see if what i am asking it do is just too much for its tiny pea brain.

SOOO EXCITING !

regards
robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,490 ·
well i only went and made a couple more videos ...

Video 1 , where i try different afr's and watch the ego vary , and also experiment with the ego pid settings...


what did i learn ?

As far as i can tell , the ego control is not working correctly with two wide bands , but does work with one wide band .No idea why , or if i am right , but that's what seems to be the case from the videos .
 

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......"Video 1 , where i try different afr's and watch the ego vary , and also experiment with the ego pid settings..."

Hi Robert
It's a bu**er when your Ego messes with your Id....that way lies paranoia or madness!:shake:
 

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The P gain gives instantaneous response but will always settle with a steady state error (which I think you are seeing). If you turn it up too far it the system will become unstable and it will oscillate. The I gain will remove the steady state error over time so maybe you should turn that up a bit. The D gain you could leave at zero for the moment since it is to do with tuning the responsiveness.

Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,493 ·
thanks Myles ,

i had a play with the various pid settings , what i found was , with it on the P and nothing else , i could increase P bit by bit , and it simply increased speed of response ,i know i cannot run it this way on the astra , cos it makes it oscillate too much , but on the stim its fine . the I and D settings , "I" made it slower to respond , and the D made it move less in total reaction .

for me the main point was to see if there was a change in ego correction behaviour between single wb and dual wb ,that should not be so ? single wb setting acted as i thought it should , whereas dual was way odd .

Regards
robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,494 ·
......"Video 1 , where i try different afr's and watch the ego vary , and also experiment with the ego pid settings..."

Hi Robert
It's a bu**er when your Ego messes with your Id....that way lies paranoia or madness!:shake:
don't get me , or myself , or my inner me , or ,that bit that's there but i don't know about ...or any of the other 28 people at the committee table of my mind ......started !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,495 ·
maybe a bit of progress..


changing to 100 events per change , and changing the pid settings , which were actually at 15.5.15....seems to have had a dramatic effect ,and completely stopped the reverse correction i was getting ..now to try it on the car, i predict a bit of a pid loop surge fest with that much P... but i can play with it .

i also created a graph , with lambda readout on the bottom ,from the wb slc 2's and the ecu and the dash afr readings up the side ,to see how closely my arrangement was mimicing the wb's..



i am pleased that the ecu is spot on , and i now know the dash is.5 afr lean.

regards
robert
 

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changing to 100 events per change , and changing the pid settings , which were actually at 15.5.15....seems to have had a dramatic effect ,and completely stopped the reverse correction i was getting ..now to try it on the car, i predict a bit of a pid loop surge fest with that much P... but i can play with it .
The D (derivative) gain is effectively a damping factor that applies when your input signal is changing quickly (it has no effect when the input is constant). You would increase D to remove overshoot. P and I are summed together so you would nearly always have to adjust both at once. You'd expect I to be much smaller that P in most cases.
 

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don't get me , or myself , or my inner me , or ,that bit that's there but i don't know about ...or any of the other 28 people at the committee table of my mind ......started !
Well with 28 people you will always have a quorum for a meeting at a moments notice :tup:
 
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