Rods 'n' Sods - UK Hot Rod & Street Rod Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks
Anyone recommend this oil for breaking in a 350 (383) Chevy small block?
Millers Oils Classic Running In Oil 30
Ive read a few threads that saying that 20/50 is too thick for a flat tappet cam break in and that 30w would be better?
I do have 5ltr of the Halfords 20/50 classic oil on the shelf and some ZDDP additive.
Any thoughts on the safest option please?
Cheers
Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
681 Posts
i have used 20/50 w for years breaking in flat tappet cams, what the problem? use the zddp and go for it
 

·
Exceeded sell by date
Joined
·
7,742 Posts
Something I don't understand. Critics of 20/50 say it's 'too thick' but it's a multigrade? It was invented so as not to be 'too thick' ? Not aimed at you Al and I've always used it. I use Penrite HPR30 despite some abuse from others, great oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,531 Posts
If breaking in a cam you should use an oil for that then dump then use oil for engine ,see what the cam make recommends ,as on fast and load did not which they found to there cost,they put an additive in which did not work and destroyed the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,531 Posts
If you use straight 30w oil you should not then use a mutigrade as 30w oil sticks the bits carbon etc it to the insides of engine and multi grade keeps it in the oil ,so when switching the multi cleans the insides so you get a sudden dump of crap going through the bearings etc, thus knocking engine.Also you should not put oil in a hot engine as it destroys the additives,warm yes, hot no.This was from BP yrs ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,385 Posts
If breaking in a cam you should use an oil for that then dump then use oil for engine ,see what the cam make recommends ,as on fast and load did not which they found to there cost,they put an additive in which did not work and destroyed the engine.
what would be recommended for a new cam? this is something I should be doing shortly

paul
 

·
Exceeded sell by date
Joined
·
7,742 Posts
Personally I don't see the point in using a cheap oil for running in, I use the same product as I use normally. If you spend thousands on a new engine why cut corners on a few gallons of oil and a few filters when you get it running. I spent all of my working life dealing with high end cars and we always broke in with the same oil as normal even when our engine developments went over to Mobil 1 in the early eighties.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,531 Posts
Are not new production engines run in before entering the car,or components made of alloys so as not to,remember the old days or signs in the back of cars running in please pass.On cam breaking in oil use what the cam manufacturer recommends,on mutli grades this is why you should oil change every 3k and oil filter every 6k,also did anybody see 5th gear about oil,they did a test on a golf with its old oil in ran a 1/4 ,then oil changed for new and gained 1/2 sec on the 1/4 mile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This old thread cast the doubts yesterday:

Here's couple tips for FLATTAPPET cam break in..
1- Use a light weight oil 10W30 is good...do not use heavy weight oils 10W40 or 20W50..... oil must be thinner for best oil splash & parts saturation during 30 min cam & lifter break in period
2- Add bottle of Comp Cams # 159 to oil.... and use BRAD PENN oil or ROYAL PURPLE break in oil.
3- Before breakin run we like to place small space heater under pan and warm oil to prox 130 F this is most important in winter time engine brake in times when engine is stored overnight outside or in non heated warehouses ect.
4- On camshaft lobes & lifter noses ( NONE ON SIDE OF LIFTER BODIES) use MOLY BASED paste such as ISKY moly paste or ARP assembly lube DONOT USE ENGINE ASSEMBLY GELL the red stuff it is useless and falls off cam & lifters almost instantly.
5- When you are having block machined insure that your machinest adds an oil groove to lifter bores in block ( use Comp Cams lifter goove tool) this vertical groove greatly increases oil feed to cam lobes and lifter noses for entire life of cam... also remember to hone lifter bores after groove tool.
6- Run engine @ 2500 + RPM for approx 30 min vary RPM during break in 2500 to prox 3500 RPM every 5 or so mins tickle the throttle.
7-After breakin period change oil & filter & add Comp Cams # 159 to oil.

Regards Daryl / Fastco Auto USA

Then started looking further... you know how it is.
I've always used 20/50 in the past and have the ZPPD so just a reassurance check before I chuck it in.
Thanks
Al
 

·
Off the Xmas card list
Joined
·
24,124 Posts
You should not use any oil with an API spec higher than SE in an old engine This means it is suitable for engines built up to 1979, then SF takes over. SE has the highest permitted levels of ZDDP ( Zinc something or other) which is necessary for the heavier loads experienced on flat tappet cams. Later spec oils reduce ZDDP as it is harmful to catalytic convertors but equally as harmful to earlier engines to not have enough.

I also use the same grade oil to run in as to later use, never had a failure due to oil. Use a good quality filter NOT FRAM as I had a failure due to a FRAM filter , and just heard of another recently with the same sympthoms as I had while using a FRAM.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top