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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
do I understand its just a no-no due to you cutting through the hardening in order to do the notch for the c-clip.
do the half - shaft not simply float on the outer bearings, or is there massive load upon the c-clip
-i.e. they wear to a certain extend in normal use.

never had any before, and am aware of the use of c-clip eliminators, or basically welding on an earlier bearing end and retaining ring type affair, but I want to retain the disc brakes on a 8.8'' axle, and I am reckoning the flange to bearing isn't the same.

anypne?
 

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theres going to be quite a load on the c clip part as its the only bit that stops the shaft coming out.id guess being un hardened it will wear pretty quick.

one thing to bear in mind if you get one made is you gotta measure very carefully.
i put some moser 8.8 shafts in a narrowed axle last week and one side was to long by 3mm,and theres no play.lucky it had a disc kit fitted so lost that on the caliper bracket.

have to be nosey but youve recently posted up pics of youre narrowed 9" in youre car that you now seam to be selling.
are you building a new project
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
no, just changing it all
1. didn't want to run 4.5 front wheels as there was no scrub radii - so want to change to 6j with a +et5mm of a torque thrust 15'' wheel, to match the stock mustang 2 rotor drilled 5 on 4.5 ford.
2. the rear wheels warranted too much tyre, so I now want 16 by 8j torque thrust d serie 105 rear wheels, - its also easier to get a 16 inch tyre nowadays - i.e. cheap and new. in say 235 60 15
3. you want rear disc brakes with and internal handbrake and a posi, the 8.8''' axle - the ones with the 3'' tube not the early fox/ranger 8.8'' axles have, 31 splines, posis', post 1995 have factory 11'' disc brakes with internal hand-brakes, the gearing for a truck tyre. - so its pointless me fitting a posi and discs to my 8 inch axle, when i can just go get a 8.8 and narrow it, especially when it 'maybe' simply a 'case = pun!! of drilling the plugs out and pressing the tubes out, cutting bevelling and re-inserting

-my main concerns were the c-clip grooves, and why you cannot run them even stock at the race track., but you can on a rock-crawler.

my other reason in simple, things get better with time the 8.8 is a later item, not necessarily better or stronger, but cheaper and more readilly available as it come in the **** *******
post 95 with factrory discs, drilled 4.5'' on 5 - I must add that you simply get sucked in fitting an 8 or 9, simply beacause, and the only reason I can see, is fashion!!
-or the fact that you can't re-spline the axles, and the c-clip end needs hardening after a re-spline, as the case hardening process only etches 2mm into the surface, and its totally removed on re-cutting the c-clip groove, no so much the splines.

my concern was the bit on the end breaking of and the axle popping out
-maybe you can simply fit a big bearing early end on and shrink on a bearing retaining collar on the 8.8 half shaft, using a cnc cut retaining plate
dunno how they work till i get an 8.8 axle.

I am however aware that the 8.8 axle uses a barrel roller bearing, as its not being pulled apart, rather than a ball bearing bearing, that can't be pulled aprt if it has a retainer, maybe its a case of finding a ball bearing sealed bearing that fits the shaft and housing and fitting a retainger ring, then a cnc cut 5mm flat bearing retainer plate.
 

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this is going under a pop later.



it came outa a ford explorer and was about 80 notes.

lsd as standard and the gearing i believe is about 3.73 which was ideal for our tyre size.we went over to the wilwood brake set up.

there is a firm in brentford way that does splining.
why not just get them splined,put the notch in and get them re hardened.

personall;y i wouldnt narrow the axle the way you want to.

id cut the ends off,weld all youre brackets on first as they will bend the tube ,then weld the ends back on.
i have the jig here for doing this for 8.8.

that way youre shafts are all ways going to be dead square in the axle

wayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
yes, the 95 onwards ones have factory discs, no one wants them
-every one will want the disc braked versions now you've said so
yes you can run a willwood 4 pot, as the y run a stock internal handbrake.
anyways, yes i gather now that you would cut the bearing housing off, and spin it down so it fits into the tube.
the ideal here is that you slip on the link brakets (3'' tube) that you will cut for me = full wrap, then simply whack the turned down ens in, don't even weld it all till you are happy with everything.



where in brentford do they respline shafts, near the heidleberg shop?

so now the price of them will rise no doubt.

I will ahve to come and see you at some stage, do you allow punters to turn up un invited?
 

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no, just changing it all
1. didn't want to run 4.5 front wheels as there was no scrub radii - -te.
ok i had to goggle that and seams its set at factory when the front ends designed.

from what ive breifly read as long as its equall both sides its ok ,and it can be either possitive or negative
now the only thing that will alter it is different width tyres and im not sure how much you would notice on a road car expecially a rod by adding another 1 1/2".
lots of cars like my own run 3 1/2" front wheels and what you get is understeer (from having a small contact point)if you corner to fast but driving at normal speeds it seams fine.

will you get a 6" wide front wheel under a pop as it could be wider with the tyre.

is this going to be a roundy roundy racer or just a street car
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also are you aware that you can fit a old style pinion yolk, do away with the flange on them?
i think you can only go with the bigger 1330 u/j though, rather than the 1310
but you simply run a 1310 to 1330 u/j.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oh p.s. the sn95 mustang has diagonla top links cast in, and is 3 inch tube rather than the 2.6
thats what I was really after.
 

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we got the prop with the axle so just had that shortened and a different gearbox end put on.

again i wouldnt machine the bearing ends down to slide in the tubes.
sometimes you cant be that precise
when you get an axle i bet it wont be straight,weld the brackets on and even less so ,so if ou machine them down to slide in youre shafts wont be in straight.

i cut the end off at the taper then weld them on that way with the jig running through the axle

if axle was to far out id be inclined to try and straighten it first
 

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Nobler, much as I like to get to the bottom of stuff ,I think you are aiming for the unobtainable. Even OEM don't get everything right ...plus redesigning everything just so you can get cheap ( no grip) tyres seems crazy ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1. 4.5 pcd
2. posi
3. 31 splines
4. 3 inch tube
5. disc brakes
6. internal hand brake
7. flanged pinion
8. cheap
9. plentiful
10. in the scrap yards now
1995-1998 exploers, unaxailable to pilliage 5-10 years ago, now available.
 

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Why not shorten in the middle like jag irs ,cut remove amount,drill hole in each end ,insert plug heat shrink weld together job done.Or cut drill one side and taper face ,other side turn down to hole size plus thous and taper face length you need shortening heat shaft with hole , chuck other ends freezer over night and press together ,weld tapered faces job done,no hardening needed also let shafts cool down slowly.
 

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That's why wrote the dowel shrink fit as the thread is the weak point ,and if you went the turn down 1 side you have as strong a metal as needed ,which i would say is the stronger of the 3 ways that i wrote.The C clip axle is 1 of the weakest ways if you keep the C clip ,I think there band due to the axle flying out at speed and hitting someone ,where as a rock crusher is going slow or stood still when it would snap .
 

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The C-clip is the weak point, but the discs would be captured by the calipers in the event of failure, so not as bad as with drums. But, do you really need discs on the back of a Pop? I don't know what style it's going to be, but by the front wheel size I'm assuming not pro-tourer?
 

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disks on the back of a pop are overkill, you will probably need a proprtioning valve in there somewhere. i think the main reasons 8/9" axles are used is because they dont have C clips, parts are cheap and easy to come by, nothing to do with fashion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)

the rear axle uses an internal handbrake like a porsche 5 series - vovlo
the things just are 4.5'' pcd - easy wheels
the lower pic is the front discs, I am simply going to spin off the 9.25'' disc from a factory mustang 2 disc/rotor/hub, to take the ford explorer disc, reducing the track over say the 11'' granada/versaille track, then simply use the explorer front calipers, its brake master cylinder, as maybe these have a built in residual prop valve to match perfectly the calipers either end,
now if I end up mounting the brake master lower than the calipers -i.e. under the floor, I do then realise I have to add a 2ilb residual proportioning valve in the lines so as to anti siphon the fluid.
all stock parts, no bib bucks.
exploere front discs new £cheap - available in the uk, try buying mustang 2 from rotors, or the 11'' ones from a uk source, i have so i know

while i am moaning, again try and find some 10 by 2'' 60's mustang brake parts, back plates and internal, or even 11'' or 9'' internal drum nrake part - there is too much confusion there 'EVEN' before you have bought the wrong item
ford explorere - job done, parts available. end of.

p.s. ford 8 and 9 inch parts are simply not cheap.

small bearings and rtetainers are £100 if you try and buy them in the u.k.
10 by 2 inch drums and shoes are classic mustang money
posi's are £500
ring and pinions are £200
bearing rebuild sets are £150
axle shafts shortened are £400
new 8 or 9 inch case is £600
that/\ is £2000.00
before you add rear discs another £600
-£2600 - for an axle

worst way on the 8.8 is.
axle cost complete used with handbrake cables and prop flange £75

respline and narrow the shafts £200

-£275, a tenth the price.
 
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