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Stuning workmanship
HI M8, REALLY COOL, LOVE IT, KEEP IT COMING, WHAT KIND ROD IS IT. CHEER, JONNYZRACING :tup::tup:Hi Guys
Being new the site I hope I am post in the correct area. These are some of the projects am working on.....
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769 Posts
Willys coupe
HI STEVE, I too am building a coupe & ford pop, i am in toronto at my uncle,s to see if i will like it here, before i decide to stay have been here for a few months now, i have some photo,s on the canadian rodder forum of my pop/willys. i am doing the coupe pro street, you can see them on rodder intro page 3 (flying scotsman) keep posting the build photo,s steve :tup: hope you have a good xmass & new year cheer,s jonny z:tup:
HI STEVE, I too am building a coupe & ford pop, i am in toronto at my uncle,s to see if i will like it here, before i decide to stay have been here for a few months now, i have some photo,s on the canadian rodder forum of my pop/willys. i am doing the coupe pro street, you can see them on rodder intro page 3 (flying scotsman) keep posting the build photo,s steve :tup: hope you have a good xmass & new year cheer,s jonny z
:tup:
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Close lol. I've moved it to the Garage section for you :tup:
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5,717 Posts
Hi Steve
You cant go wrong with a gassered willy's m8 :tup:
I do like inprogress pics as it shows the changes that have been made, is the chassis with the front flipped the most recent or the old one (i noticed the different chassis piece under the rad :tup: )
A real nice ride m8 :tup:
You cant go wrong with a gassered willy's m8 :tup:
I do like inprogress pics as it shows the changes that have been made, is the chassis with the front flipped the most recent or the old one (i noticed the different chassis piece under the rad :tup: )
A real nice ride m8 :tup:
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248 Posts
Hi Guys
Thanks again , fisrt this is however a customers car, and yes there have been some updates on the Willys . I have built the willys from scratch even the body..... I built molds for the 40 41 Willys back in the late 90's and manufactured about 40 bodies and the mess was more than I could handle. So I sold the molds to a freind and now when I need one I just make a phone call.
I would much rather be doing the sheet metal and chassis work any way it is a lot more satisfying and a whole lot easier to keep clean.
As I mentioned before , for the past three or so years I work alone and find that to be better......
I will post some other sheet metal work I am doing , Here and maybe in the tech area if allowed..... Thanks Steve
Thanks again , fisrt this is however a customers car, and yes there have been some updates on the Willys . I have built the willys from scratch even the body..... I built molds for the 40 41 Willys back in the late 90's and manufactured about 40 bodies and the mess was more than I could handle. So I sold the molds to a freind and now when I need one I just make a phone call.
I would much rather be doing the sheet metal and chassis work any way it is a lot more satisfying and a whole lot easier to keep clean.
As I mentioned before , for the past three or so years I work alone and find that to be better......
I will post some other sheet metal work I am doing , Here and maybe in the tech area if allowed..... Thanks Steve
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440 Posts
That coupe gave me an instant stiring in the loins.It`s stance, the headers even the flamed paint job make me think that somebody who knows me really well has ordered this car as a surprise for me!! And now reality has cut back in , what I mean is "good job"
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248 Posts
Again many thanks
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2,828 Posts
post more please , that was a tease:tup:
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248 Posts
Hi Folks this may be a long one
while making a frame rail cover on the rear of a 32 Ford frame horn, a round over edge was needed on a radius to some what copy the curvy contours on the 32 Fords reveals. This is so simple and for the most part can be accomplished with simple home or shop tools.
The edge starts out with a blank flat piece of sheet metal .
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The wavy shape or contour is simple to form by bending around railing or old exhaust pipe or borrows your wife's roller, (you did not hear that here) any thing that comes close to the shape needed.
Now you can do this next step by using a basic hand held body dolly and steady it in a vise, any hammer will do or find and old piece of leaf spring and polish it up with some sandpaper so you don't mar up the metal your beating.
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I used a slapper on this piece as I rarely use a hammer unless the area will not allow me to.
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Now the finish on in the photo above would be just fine and although it is not nessesary to go further I desided run it threw an edging die on my english wheel (raising machine) to even out some of the imperfections I installed as I slapped the edge over.
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while making a frame rail cover on the rear of a 32 Ford frame horn, a round over edge was needed on a radius to some what copy the curvy contours on the 32 Fords reveals. This is so simple and for the most part can be accomplished with simple home or shop tools.
The edge starts out with a blank flat piece of sheet metal .
The wavy shape or contour is simple to form by bending around railing or old exhaust pipe or borrows your wife's roller, (you did not hear that here) any thing that comes close to the shape needed.
Now you can do this next step by using a basic hand held body dolly and steady it in a vise, any hammer will do or find and old piece of leaf spring and polish it up with some sandpaper so you don't mar up the metal your beating.
I used a slapper on this piece as I rarely use a hammer unless the area will not allow me to.
Now the finish on in the photo above would be just fine and although it is not nessesary to go further I desided run it threw an edging die on my english wheel (raising machine) to even out some of the imperfections I installed as I slapped the edge over.
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248 Posts
After smoothing the area in the area in the photo below I had an area that had to much material so I will try to gather it (or shrink) without using heat .
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Notice in the photo above how I clamped a piece of tubing near the area to help contain the area in which I would be working.
Now that I am satisfied with my edge I installed the side panel to check fit and start making a top for the panel .
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Take note of what I call timing marks to refer back to as I fit the top panel and remove to ajust, I will post more after I go further with each step.
Notice in the photo above how I clamped a piece of tubing near the area to help contain the area in which I would be working.
Now that I am satisfied with my edge I installed the side panel to check fit and start making a top for the panel .
Take note of what I call timing marks to refer back to as I fit the top panel and remove to ajust, I will post more after I go further with each step.
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248 Posts
It's at this point were what I call timing marks come in handy to realign both panels when I remove them from the frame to make changes.
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At this point I had to break my tack weld and cut back some of my round over so my top would lay flat in a straight line.
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Now remember before when I said use what ever you have to achieve the shape desired ? well here is a great example, I had to use one of my wood mallets to roll the bottom of the contour with out loosing a nice radius.
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At this point I had to break my tack weld and cut back some of my round over so my top would lay flat in a straight line.
Now remember before when I said use what ever you have to achieve the shape desired ? well here is a great example, I had to use one of my wood mallets to roll the bottom of the contour with out loosing a nice radius.
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248 Posts
Again the simplest tool will work most of the time.
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Next I tacked about 1 1/2 apart starting from the center and worked out to ether edge and back to the center to keep the distortion down to a minimum, after which I finished welding in the same pattern.
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After wich I knocked the high or proud side of the weld down with a grinder and then finalized with an 80 grit just in the affected area.
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Next I tacked about 1 1/2 apart starting from the center and worked out to ether edge and back to the center to keep the distortion down to a minimum, after which I finished welding in the same pattern.
After wich I knocked the high or proud side of the weld down with a grinder and then finalized with an 80 grit just in the affected area.
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248 Posts
The next step we will make a louvered panel between the two rail covers.
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Here is what the finished product.
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Here is what the finished product.
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