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49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I thought it was finally time to share my projects with the wider community as I have been looking through all your projects for years now.

I hope this thread is ok with the mods, as I hope to have multiple cars in the same thread as it will be easier for me to keep it upto date. The opening to this thread is basically a massive cut and paste from another forum so im sorry if it doesnt completely make sense, but it will get you all up todate quite quickly. Im very sorry about the broken image links i will work through them over the next few weeks, but there will be plenty of pics still here.

Project 1:

This project was originally started by someone else, with an alunimiumn 308 shell

and modified from there. The project was then abandoned after several years and

lay dormant in a shed until i got wind of it. Once aquired i set about making a

set of mouldings from the moulds i now had filling my shed, this is what i


Close but still a long way to go! So what we had was a shell with 308 windscreen

and door glass fitment, and a nice front end but all 4 wheel arches needed a lot

of work along with remaking the rear end, spoiler and uprights, sills, and all

the vents!, but still a good start!. The rear end was the first thing to attack.

First i re-attatched it to the body then set about lengthening it, changed the

rear curve, fitted rear screen, made and fitted all 16 vents, then the uprights

and aerofoil were made....

Which left me with something looking like this...

Then it was back into the shed to work on the wheel arches, sills and the

uprights on the front of the sill that meet the front end....

The some primer to see how it was looking

This is about how far it got upto last year, next step is to remove the rear from

the body and make all the returns and rear cab window. Also have to finish the

interior tub that is about half way through the plug stage...


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Almost all work done to the rear end was done from guess work and measuments from

pictures, so the actual shell is 2 inches wider, 1 1/2 inches longer and an inch

lower than the original 8) Plus with the body and interior being only 2 pieces

panel alignment and fitment should be much easier later on.

Very late on into this project the opportunity came up to buy an original rear

end along with a set of LM molds, which i did! So far has been very useful for

internal ducting, inner arches, dash+pod etc... Also currently laying up an LM

front end to see how far it is from fitting my body. Some of you may have seen

these moulds on ebay a year or so ago when my father thought of selling them?!

When i was able to put the original rear next to my own, i was shocked to see how

poor the quality of the original was, wavy and not symetrical! but it is 20 years


comments appreciated


I managed to get a couple more hours into the LM front today, now have most of it

layed up and fitted an inner arch lip on one side....(sorry for the wide angle

pics, hope they make sense?)

Also started to make some vents off my rear bumper to fit to the wing tops on the

LM front, although still unsure if i will fit them, not all had them.

Hopefully sould be done laying it up tomorrow and will be able to pop it out of

the mold on thursday!

Also starting to make plans to drag the body+rear plug out of storage and start

working towards starting the molds, you have all re-ignited my enthusiasm for

this long project!

I'll sort through my older pics and put a few up shortly.


Few more pics for you of how the front is progressing, popped the inner arch lip

mold off the left side of the LM front today and cleaned up the join ready to be

bonded over. Also had a little plat with the inner arch to see what the fit was

like, then bonded in the inner arch lip on the right side.


With the interior of my car being one piece that is fitted all around the inside

of my bodyshell, which is 1 piece with screen surround, roof, cab windows, sides

and sill's all attatched, i don't have much room for adjustment. Although that

isnt to say that the shell alone couldn't be used over any chassis/fiero.

I will be producing a full set of moulds so all panels will be available later

this year. The wheel base of my shell is around 98.25"

The RH arch lip is all in now and finished laying up the front skirt and vents

today so hopefully will be finished laying it up tomorrow once the carbon is on.

Sorry no pics today but i'll get some tomorrow.

But heres a few other random pics of other part ready for this build...

These are the uprights ill be using, not machined yet. My father has also used

the fronts on his 4age Morris Minor van 8)

And a few of the body plug (buck) through the build process. (Some of these are

pretty ol with alot of changes since, but thought you might like the see the


I always appreciate comments and criticisms


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well she's out of the mold, pretty happy with it. Didnt really know what to

expect as the mold is far from perfect so it has a few big flash lines but

nothing a quick bit of sanding wont fix.

I think i will fit the vents on top of the wings, the shark gill style not the

NACA duct. Probably will have 5 per side, i may also look at making a front


Comments always appreciated.


Pics as promised.... (sorry the picture quality isn't great, it was still dusty

in the workshop, i'll take some pictures outside when the sun eventually comes


The sun was out for a while today so i thought it ideal opportunity to take some

better picture of the LM front end. Also had a chance to weigh it, it comes in

just under 20kg's.

Here are a few pictures of the latest progress.

The LM front is a pretty good fit on our shell, but i will need to make a few

mods to get it perfect. The front is back in storage now and will be finished

later down the line. Finishing the body plug is now the main objective, there are

a few bits left to fill/sand, then seperating the rear end from the body and

putting in the panel returns. I'm also thinking of moulding in the rear wheel

wells (tub's?!) into the body.

I have also had a quick go at a mock-up LM rear bi-wing. This is only in grp for

now but the final one will all be carbon. It's also only held together with hot

glue at the moment so sorry if it looks a little squint in the pics! So it goes

from this.....

To this...


Lately i have been working on the inner rear wheel tubs as i decided its easier

to do them now rather than after the body has been moulded. These will now be

moulded into the floor pan that will be attatched to the main body tub, this in

turn is dropped over the Lotus Esprit (s3 or s4) chassis and attatched with 10

bolts as per the Esprit, hopefully making kit assembly very easy.

I'll update a little later with more pictures but here is a little teaser for


That is a stock F40 tire, 335/35/17. At this height there is still 10mm between

the tire and inner arch and about 15 mm between the floor and the ground, so she

could drop even lower and still roll without rubbing. I made the inner wheel tubs

as big as possible so race slicks can be fitted for LM versions, Which are 19inch

rims, but i would guess that there is enough room in there for 22inch rims but

thats not really my stile! Also if height adjustable suspension was fitted it

would be able to drop the car to this height for show use.

Comments always appreciated....


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are some progress picture of the rear wheel tubs..............

They will still need a lot of modifying, at the back where the bumper sits and on

the inner face where the suspension goes through to the wheel but this will wait

till its on the Lotus chassis. I will also cut the top of the tub away when i

seperate the backend from the main body section, so you see the rear tires when

you lift the rear end as per the original. Bumper pictures to follow....

Comments good or bad always appreciated.


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some pictures of how the rear bumper has changed......

Sorry the pictures arent very clear, but what i have done is to put an extra

return all the way waound the top, this acts as the black recess around the body.

Whereas on an original the black recess hangs from the backend and sits on the

bumper and rubs away at the paint. I hope this explains it if not ill finr some

pictures of an original?!


This morning i decided to drag the door inner and outer mouldings out of long

term storage to see how they looked. A bit of time cutting, sanding and adjusting

and i had both parts fitting inside the door frame. Once fixed to the body, to

ensure good alignment, I bonded the inner and outer skins together. I had to cut

the centre out of the inner shell so i could get inside to bond it, i plan to

make this into just a frame to hold the window/winder, door hinge and latch. Then

there will be an inner door skin to cover everything, this will probably be a

combination of styles mainly like the stock F40 with wind up windows but it will

also have the vents from the sliding window version.

I'll let the pictures do the talking............

Comments good or bad always appreciated...


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well after a busy couple of days i now think i have the door hinge set up sorted.

Alot of altering, trimming, swearing and altering again and its now just needing

a little refinement. I started with a door hinge off a Vauxhall VX220 (Opel

Speedster), It's a very well designed hinge that is all alloy extruded section,

it also connects the door catch to the hinge via an alloy extursion that crosses

the whole door and acts as a crash bar. It also has a door stop built in.

Initially i hoped to use the entire hinge but it soon became obvious that it

needed considerable modification to fit my purposes. I have had to remove that

crash bar but I'm hoping i will be able to refit it once i have the window frames


This was a tricky job and one i havent really looked forward to, but it turned

out not to be as bad as i expected. I really didnt want to have any moving parts

inside the A post as you have to have holes to clear everything, i also wanted to

see as little of the hinge as possible.

I now have the hinge inside the door which helps with assembly as its easy to get

too. With the hinge in this location the front of the door closes into the A post

when the door is opened, so i had to put a recess in the A post to allow this.

This actually helps the strenght of the A post massively which in turn helps to

door from dropping. Overall I'm really happy that it is strong and will be long


Next job is to start cutting and shutting the inner door that bolts to the hinge,

and then the door catch.

Sorry there is a little shortage with the pictures, i'll take some of the process

when i do the other side. But here they are so I'm sure they will explain my

progress better than i can..............

Comments good or bad appreciated as always


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that i have the hinge attatched to the car it was time to work out how to

attatch it to the inner door. I started by cutting out most of what was there as

it was in my way, and my final design will be alot more complex so the door is

stiff when finished. Once the door was cut i attatched a thick flat piece of

fibreglass to the hinge and fitted the door in its closed position, then i just

had to make the two meet. This has now been bonded together which was pretty

tight to do. Next step is to refit then work on the area where the hinge pokes

out of the door and start fitting the door latch.

Here's the pictures.................

All comments appreciated


Well i managed a few hours today, so i had a quick go at getting the catch

attatched to the door. I had to do a fair amount of cutting to the door but its

now pretty close. Once i have bonded it in from the back i will be able to refine

the fitment a little more and try it properly, its only attatched with hot glue

at the mo so still a bit fragile but it opens and closes well. Once i have the

catch and hinge finalised i will be able to start on the outer skin of the door,

it looks good but it's not quite upto the quality of the body so its need

flatting down. The panel gaps can also be done at this time.

Once both door plugs are upto that stage i will put them aside and they will be

finished once i have the window frames.

Heres a few pictures...........

Sorry its not the most exciting update, but all these boring, never to be seen

jobs have to be done!

49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We are slowly progressing with the project, and this week we finally got the body

over the Esprit chassis. Separating the Esprit body form the chassis wasn't a

massive massive job, and my chassis seems to be in pretty good condition. Except

for the added engine mounts, but the grinder soon sorted them out. Heres the


Next i have to line up the chassis with the body then i can fix them both down in

position and start to do the floor pans and the tunnel.

Comments always appreciated


Not much of an update for you as we havent had much time for the project as of

late, but hopefully that will change over winter and we will get a few hours in

the workshop. I didnt put up these pictures from when we put the body over the

chassis, so thought some might like to see. I cut up the old interior plug as we

are no longer going with the 1 piece design because we wont be able to get it

into the shell now that we are building the floor pan onto the shell. This will

mean that the carbon interior pieces will be much easier to make seperately, i

always feard that the huge 1 piece interior would give us problems to make.

I also threw in a seat shell i had lying around and the dash board to see how

much rrom there is and how everything lines up, and it all seems good, plenty of



49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We also popped the door back on and got the front out of storage and fitted it

up. Please remember i havent squared the chassis up in the body yet, this was

just to give us a rought idea of how it would look.

There is also no damper this side so i could see the full bump and droop that the

chassis is capable of. One of the last pictures is of the wheel art full bump and


The lotus chassis has been taken out from under the body shell and stored. We

have set up a table infront of the cab so we can set up and finish the fitment of

the front end. Today i cut the flange off from the underside of the front bumper

and I'm fitting a piece of 6mm grp sheet i had lying around, i have decided the

front bumper will be attatched to the chassis and the bonnet will hinge from it.

It will be a much nicer way to finish it as the brake and radiator ducts can all

be fixed into place, it also helps with my plan for the car to have a flat floor.

i have also started to fit the lower half of the inner arch as these will be

molded in.


We have now been over the body and made a complete list of all the jobs that are

left to be done, its quite a big list but we are knocking jobs off. Today I'm

working on the rear wheel tub to get it upto the stage of the other one. We have

now found a supplier of the 308 screens at a very reasonable cost, £300

delivered. So next week we will be ordering one so we can fit it into the plug to

check the fitment before we mold anything. Once we know the screen fits we can

fit a wiper arm and motor (we're going to use one from an x300 xj6, single wiper,

cheap and plenyful) as this will need a dimple on the scuttle so the arm aligns

to the screen properly. Then we can finish the front bulkhead, first by putting a

water channel under the screen, then make clearence for the front wheels and the

flat end to the footwells. In an above post i said we would now leave the floor

pan till after we have molded the body but it looks more likely that we will now

do it at the same time so once we are done with making molds we can move on to

finally building a car!

Yesterday i borrowed a pair of original 308 doors from a steel bodied car. I used

these to check the door window fitment into my shell and I'm happy to say it all

fits well. I need to buy a set of window frames by the end of the year so i can

finish my door moldings.

I have aslo been looking into wheels and tire again, i wont need them until the

molds are done and i fit the first body to my chassis. Tires for the original

size are really expensive because its only the f40 and diablo that used

335/35/17, the tires are actually more expensive than the custom image 3 piece

wheels! But i started looking around and if i went for 325/30/19 instead the

tires are actually quite cheap because lots of modern supercars use them. Image

also offer a copy of the f40 wheel I'm 19inch so i can stick to the original look

just bigger. I'm hoping it will make the car look a little more modern? any


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
i have been working on the rear 1/4 windows because they were lacking in detail

in a few places. The shape in the picture is how the window will look with the

glass in. I have to mold it like this so the mold will pull off the plug. Once

the mold is make i can make a removable insert that will fit to the mold and will

give you the recess for the glass in the final moldings.

I have also completely cut apart the vent on the left hand side as i wasnt happy

with it or the curve of the window but its looking much btter now.


I have also been working on how i am going to finish the top of the pillars at

the front of the sill and how they will join the front end. The final version

will be very similar to what is pictured but the pins will be stainless. These

just locate the sides of the front, i am planning on having sprung catches to

hold the hood down.


Yesterday we had a 308/328 windscreen delivered so today i test fitted it, The

fit around the top and sides is excellent but there was about an inch gap between

the bottom of the screen and the frame....
So i cut the lower part of the frame out of the body and reattached it correctly.
I have also been blocking thebody down with 120 grit, all pretty smooth now,

should be able to get some 2k primer on once we have the next few body mods done.
I now have the screen frame bonded back in and the screen now fits well and only

needs minor adjustment.


Next its time to work on the 'A' pillars and to start to finish up the front

bulkhead and wheel tubs.
I then replicated the Lotus chassis in ply wood so i have the mounting faces in

the right places and clearence where i need it, the only thing missing from it at

this point are the strut tops, they will go in soon.
Then bent a flexible sheel of flate grp round to form the inner wheel tub, it

returns under the screen to give the front wheels as much clearance as possible
It was then gel'd red and layed up with glass, this is how it looked with the grp

sheet popped off..
I also started to lay up a thick flat sheet of grp today, this will be cut up and

pieces put shiney side onto the plywood then bonded together to form the chassis

foor, next i have to remake the end of the sill so it blends into the inner



I struck the sheet of 6mm grp that i layed up the other day and i have started to

put together the front of the tub where it sits on the chassis and clears all the

front suspension. Its only dropped onto the former for now, it will all get

aligned properly,then glued into place before i bond it all up. The top 3 pieces

need cutting up and lifting in the middle leaving a 25mm raised section, this

return makes it all stronger and will act as an opening so the rad pipes and

brake lines can be accessed. This opening will have a lid on top that will carry

the battery.

The front of the tub has a large curve because I'm going to mount the rad upto

the front of it and all hot air will be ducted out under the car.

This is the last of the pieces the go around the front of the chassis, i also cut

the piece for the end of the drivers foot well. I need to re cut the side piece

as i am now going to put a 25mm taper on the end of the footwell and infront of

the lower arm, This makes it come out of the mold easier and access to the

suspension bolts is much easier.



49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)

Got a little more done today, i have mocked up the top mount where the shock

fits. I have built the tub around the shock tops so i can bolt the roll cage to

them inside the car and triangulate them to the dash bar and door bars.


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)

Been doing a bit more work on the front of the tub, it's only glued and screwed

at the moment, i will glass it together when i have the last few bits in place.

Been working on the tunnel and starting the floor pans. I built a former out of

wood so I could build the grp tunnel onto it. Then trimmed the pieces to length,

There is a 50mm wide strip that runs around the opening in the floor where the

chassis fits through, this lifts the chassis above the floor so a cover can be

fitted completing the flat floor underneath the car. I then started to piece in

the rear bulkhead around the engine bay, next is the main floor areas and to

build the rear bulkhead into the rear wheel tubs.

Comments always appreciated


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Around 4 years ago a hear of a Davrian that was for sale locally, so i jumped

straight in the car needing to hear nothing else! The car in question was

stripped in the mid 80's and has been sat in a loft until it was decided it was

in the way, when i pulled up in the car this is what i found.....

A deal was done and a few weeks later i went back and collected her....

Even though it had been totally dry in the loft, the cage had condensated inside

resulting in this.....

I think a new cage may be needed! She then went into storage for about a year

until i could make enough space for her in the workshop. A few months ago that

finally happened......


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There is a long road ahead involving remaking pretty much all bodywork. The final

plan for the car is for it to be a road car, but as it has a race history i plan

to keep it in that style. The front of the car is standard Mk3 but at some stage

in it's life the rear has been adapted to a later style, because its wider and as

a race car it probably had 8 or 10 inch wide rear wheels. I plan to run 13x10

inch rears and 13x8 inch fronts.

So far i have done a quick bit of cutting and shutting to see how i want the body

to finally look. Main changes are to the wheels arches as i wasn't happy with the

shape of the lips. Heres how the mods went....

Pretty happy with the front arch, this is only temporary, until i get all the

running gear and wheels on then i can line them up properly.

The rear wheel arch will be filled so it is less of a bubble arch and more of a

rolled lip. The i decided to see how a vent similar to the 250gto would look....

This bring us upto today, this morning i decided to try some mod sport style

corner spoilers and some very over the top front dive plaines, not sure if they

will be for road use though?!..


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·

I cut the nose appart so it lines up with the bonnet better, once its bonded up I

can then attack the shut lines around the bonnet. I also dropped in a pair of 7

inch headlights I had lying around. To me they look too big and always do on

Davrians as they are tiny cars, But withought the surrounds they look much

better. I'm also going to make clear covers to go over the headlights with custom

chrome surrounds to hopefully really finish the front end off.

I'm also designing up a set of badges to go on the car, just waiting to hear back

on a few quotes for having them waterjet cut in alloy. I then want to get them

chromed. The first one will be done in 2 sizes, small to go into the wings behind

the front wheels and a larger one to go into the front grill. The second badges

is to go onto the rear. I will recess it into the fibreglass aswell as the ones

in the front wings.

I've also taken the big stepof removing the rear arches as the shutline of my

rear end isnt the same as other davrians. Now I just have to bond the wings to

the rear and do the returns so it all bolts to the body. In the shed I have a

standard mk4 road rear end so I'm using this to make the returns on the car then

i'll fit my back to it. It will be useful to have the narrow rear so I don't

always have to run the 10 inch wide tires!


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bit more progess on the Davrian today, i have been sanding off all the paint and

filler on the rear of the cab so i can sort the returns for th rear end.

The passenger side had lots of layers of paint and a fair thickness of filler. I

plan to remover all filler from the car so i can do all the repairs properly,

then i will probably etch prime the shell so i can see how it looks, then i'll

start with the filler work.

I now have the standard road rear end attatched and ligned up as square as you

can on a Davrian. I used a piece of inch bar through both trailing arms so i

could get both wheel arches lined up. I then taped up the joins and painted some

gel on, hoping to get the retunrs layed up later. You cant see the returns in the

picsture so it will make more sense once i take the back back off! but you can

see it is all better aligned than in the previous pictures......


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I finally got round to laying up the returns on the rear of the cab, but i havent

yet taken the back off as i thought i would have a go at finishing up the wheel

arches while it was in place. I have also started removing the old paint with a

chisel and started to give it a bit of a rub down. I have also fitted some

running gear so i can check that everything lines up properly.

As an experiment i layed up a small quick mould off of the rear of the passenger

side rear ach. Once it was dry i removed it trimmed it up, then i put it on the

front of the drivers rear arch to see how it looked. It looked close enough so i

glued the mould in place then gel'd and layed it up from the back. A bit of

cooking with the hair dryer and i was able to take the mould off to see how it


Popped the back off this morning so i could see what the returns are like, even

though i havent yet finished the front of the passenger side rear arch. Next i

want to refit my original rear end to make sure its all going to work before i

finish up the cab. Hoping to have the original rear back on after lunch.


49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A few pictures of the original back end on the car again, only dropped on for now

as i just wanted to see how all the shut lines and returns looked before i finish

them on the cab. I now have the road back end on the car so i can finish up the

passenger side arch. Im also going to take some moulds off both the rear arch

lips so i can transfer the shape to the original rear as it has no returns on


I found myself with a few spare hours today and before i knew it i was standing


a pile of fiberglass, airsaw and chisel in hand, itching all over and wondering

what had i just done?! I had to keep telling myself that sometimes you have to go

backward to go forwards. The old front came off in around 4 main pieces, lots and

lots of repairs and extra fiberglass in the front end from its old racing days.

The front was pretty much beyond repair, atleast while it was still on the car,

but being a Mk3 its a fixed front design. A few months ago i picked up a never

used Mk5 front with flip up lights, the Mk5 is a removable front design and it

makes working on the front end much easier. My plan is to fit this front to my

car, updating it to mk5 removable design, eventually i wil then rebuild the

original front end onto the car making it look like a Mk3 again but being


After hours of hacking and stabbing at foam i finally managed to get the drivers

side fuel tank out and for an almost 50 year old tank it doesnt look too bad, but

I'm pretty sure it leaks because the foam under the tank was wet and smelt of

really stale fuel.

Then decided i had enough of stabbing foam for one day and chose to rip off some

old repairs on the front from an old accident instead, and took the high speed

sander to the drivers front corner to get 40+ years of grime off.

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