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Dragging not Bragging
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Running in

No ive not got my engine sorted

But once i have got a crank ground and replaced the bearings (mains/rods) relaced the head gaskets and so on

Whats the best way and time period for running it in (if i have too)




(need to take my mind off something) :cry:
 

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[url=http://www.nobrain.d
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Running in

No ive not got my engine sorted

But once i have got a crank ground and replaced the bearings (mains/rods) relaced the head gaskets and so on

Whats the best way and time period for running it in (if i have too)

(need to take my mind off something) :cry:
As it got a new Cam too ??
 

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2 schools of thought on running in.

Slow and steady for 500 miles, lets everything bed nicely and gives a long life to teh enigne.

Or, thrash the crap out of it. Beds everything in quickly with less wear overall. Apparantly gives the engine more power for a longer period of time but at the expense of ultimate engine life.


Ive only ever tried the first method but aparantly some expensive race rep motorbikes recomend the 'thrash it' method.
 

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We always found at work that you had to thrash diesels from new or they'd never reach maximum performance. Cam breaking in needs varied engine speeds up to 3000 rpm which goes against everything I was taught about running in engines. I tend to break the cam in and just get it on the edge of performance kicking in for 500 or so and then increase by 1000 rpm increments for 500 miles each time.
 

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i was allways told the cam was run in at different rpm's for about 20 min stood still & to take it easy for 100 miles for the bottom end if only reground & new bearings the chang fillter & oil the you can go for it
 

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I should have been more specific Guy, yes ,20 minutes at varied rpm not letting it idle.
 

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The critical issue on running in is on how tight the piston/bore tolerances are to and to a lesser extent the type of piston fitted. Some racers build their engines loose [with big clearances] to enable them to avoid long break in periods. Assuming yours is a street engine 500 miles really gentle driving,oil and filter change and a further 500 building up the loading/revs gradually and dont go for full revs till 1500 miles. Do this and your engine will not only last longer but will run smoother and make more power. :)
 

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The critical issue on running in is on how tight the piston/bore tolerances are to and to a lesser extent the type of piston fitted. Some racers build their engines loose [with big clearances] to enable them to avoid long break in periods. Assuming yours is a street engine 500 miles really gentle driving,oil and filter change and a further 500 building up the loading/revs gradually and dont go for full revs till 1500 miles. Do this and your engine will not only last longer but will run smoother and make more power. :)
You need to seat the rings,its good to do some full throttle bursts up to 4000rpm and back down a few times out under load on the road after you have run in the cam.
 

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Cock
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Breaking in a new engine for a spot of oval racing, we used to put the car on the trailer, set the tickover to about half throttle, and set off. Called it "run in" by the time we reached Wisbech...
 

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Dragging not Bragging
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No I'm not doing a BUDDY impression But

"" Ive heard a rumor from a friend, i don't say thats it true, ill just leave that up to you ""

A 350 cam is like 1 above standard in a 305, Ive checked the listings and it seem's feasible but all those numbers are doing my head in :beuj:

And it just so happens that i have a new cam and lifter's (cheers bro) so i may as well just fit them n see, so now Ive got to run that in as well :tup:

When i get round to putting this together the engines going to be totally different to the one i broke :D

For running it in I'm going to be using a cheapish 20/50 and some STP oil treatment do you think the STP will work as cam lube ??:?:

Oh and found this site about running in

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm
 

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Don't go with a cheapish 20/50. You may have seen the posts about ZDDP and how when it's missing cams fail eary ? Well after some reserach Castrols 20/50 would be my best recomendation.

Can't remember if I posted about it all here or not?
 

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Dragging not Bragging
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Don't go with a cheapish 20/50. You may have seen the posts about ZDDP and how when it's missing cams fail eary ? Well after some reserach Castrols 20/50 would be my best recomendation.

Can't remember if I posted about it all here or not?
You did Kev (your not losing your marbals yet m8 ) :pmsl:

I just didnt want to go for anything to good just to drain after 100 miles and was going to use diesel oil (after reading your thread) but that only seem's to come in 10/15-40 :tup:
 

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Dragging not Bragging
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How cheap's cheap compared to another cam ? ;) :)
Not the £5 a gallon cheap thats for sure :tup:
(but even thatwould probably be as good as the old running in oil :lol:)
 
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