[StueyT]

Ok where to start, well I have been asking some daft questions throughout the forum so I thought it would be a good idea to let you see what all the questions were about.

I bought a Pop shell and chassis off here as I kept looking at my old one and wished I had never sold it. When I collected it, it was a bit on the rusty side to say the least. So first thing to do is tackle the rot and grot. I have had the car around a month but due to work I haven't had a chance to get on with it, but I had some time this week so I started cutting, grinding and making up new panels.

As was when I got her home.

Plenty of rot and grot to sort out.

So I got the car (in the loosest terms) in the garage, and thought I may as well start at the back and work forward. So I cut off the rear valance and tacked in some fresh steel, I haven't trimmed it off yet as I'm not sure how low I am going to take it, and I have to make up a rolled valance to fit as well.

I went on a small road trip and picked up the bonnet and a grill shell (which needs repairs) and then I mocked them up on the body to see if they fit.

Nice Bonnet Mascot! msl:

With the condition of the B pillars I cut out the grot made up a new panel, this was more difficult than I anticipated as the bends and curves in the body are so close to each other I had to make it out of three pieces.

The A pillars weren't much better, so the grot was cut out and fresh steel tacked in place, but this is where I am up to today, had to stop due to a touch of arc eye :sniff: bloody welding mask.

I should be pretty good at this metal working lark and welding by the time I am finished :tup:

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[Fordson Van]

The "mole grips motif" on your bonnet reminds me that rover should have used them instead of a badge! :lol:

 

[Mick10]

Just seen the pics of your pop it looks like the identical twin of mine whats your plan for it apart from much welding.

 

[StueyT]

Hi Mick,

Firstly get all the welding done, which could take years looking at how much there is :lol: I've got another chassis coming with ha viva front and 3.0 Capri rear end, so either the body will get grafted across or I'll strip that chassis and use the bits on the one under the car. Not sure on engine yet, I have a choice of 1600 pinto or RV8, It'll be running 10 x 15's rear and be fenderless. I'm not sure whether to leave the wheels exposed or tub it and pinch the chassis to move the wheels inside a touch.

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[Mick10]

Sounds like you are getting well organised with it you should have plenty of parts to scavenge at with the other chassis. Is it road legal to go fenderless, RV 8 sounds interesting good luck mate :tup:

 

[StueyT]

Is it road legal to go fenderless..............god no, but I will probable make up a set of fenders (loose terms) just for the legality side of things and keep them in the boot unless it rains. I haven't seen anyone get pulled for running fenderless from a show on an organised cruies, but there is always a first time.

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[English Impala]

If/when you take the body off the chassis brace it well. A few years ago I had a 1948 Anglia body (same as a Pop) & it had the strength of chewing gum when the rivets were drilled out to lift it off. I'd use 1" angle iron welded between the A & B posts across the door apperatures, then from A to opposite B post inside the car, then anywhere else you can think of!

 

[StueyT]

I have noticed, that they flex a bit, before the rust repairs were started it wallowed everywhere, it's not quite as bad now, but should be stronger when the wheel tubs are sorted out. I will definitely take that into account if/when I remove the body.

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[No sound]

Agree with English Impala I would brace the car up. Good luck with the project. Andy

 

[StueyT]

Andy,

Thanks very much, I'm really hoping I get the time to complete this one as others had to get moved on due to moving round the country with work.

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[blackpopracing]

Your'e a brave man Stu, but dont weld any more till you get a proper mask, being blind aint no fun.
Welcome back into the pop fold.

 

[Kiwi K]

just to help with your eyes use milk in a eyebath or big bottlelid:tup:

 

[ROCKIN WOLEY]

Keep ya welding safe Stu cos if ya can't see when its finished I'll have to thrash sorry drive it.

Jeff

 

[StueyT]

Your'e a brave man Stu, but dont weld any more till you get a proper mask, being blind aint no fun.
Welcome back into the pop fold.

Daft more like it Mark not brave . I'm away with work for the next couple of weeks so nothing will get done, so new mask on order when I can decide on which one.

just to help with your eyes use milk in a eyebath or big bottlelid:tup:

I'm not sure on that one, surely milk is just for cereal or tea?

Keep ya welding safe Stu cos if ya can't see when its finished I'll have to thrash sorry drive it.

Jeff

Only if you let me thrash, sorry drive yours whilst I can still see :lol:

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[pompeypaul]

nice little project

 

[ROCKIN WOLEY]

Only if you let me thrash, sorry drive yours whilst I can still see :lol:

Cheers,

Stu.[/QUOTE]

Ha HAAA nice one :rofl:

Jeff

 

[blackpopracing]

Stu,

Look at the Welders Warehouse own brands, always served me well.
Welding Helmet, Auto Welding Helmets, The Welders Warehouse

 

[fozwanger]

Your V8 is in my garage. You know it'll sound and go better with an 8 :lol:

 

[StueyT]

Your V8 is in my garage. You know it'll sound and go better with an 8 :lol:

I know and I can't wait to get it back and offer it up, just short of a gearbox for both engines, so hedging my bets on which gearbox turns up first

Cheers,

Stu.

 

[StueyT]

Did a quick mock up of the engine, but it looks like the bulkhead is going to have to be recessed to allow the radiator room, and the grill shell to line up with the bonnet.

Also finished getting the tyres fitted to the 10" rims, just need an axle to bolt it all together.

Once I have the front and rear axles in my grubby mits I can get the car to a rolling shell, which will make it much easier to turn round in the garage so I can carry on with the rust repairs on the passenger side of the car. I will have to make up some crossmembers, I was thinking about using 3 x 2 box section and cut it to suit the required angles. Only thing I am pondering is what wall thickness should I use for the crossmembers?

Cheers,

Stu.