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www.53catalina.co.uk
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just taken my offside door panel off to sort out the lock etc, and found the inner panel was covered in surface rust. No surprise really after 56 years!

Which do you recommend as the better product to treat the rust, red Oxide or POR15


cheers
Dan
 

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Red oxide won't hold the rust back, You need something like Jenolite to convert it, Not used POR15 but heard not good things from others that have.
 

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www.53catalina.co.uk
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Steve, is that heard nothing but good things, or Not heard good things?

I'm pretty sure POR15 converts and traps the rust, and I like the idea it cures in damp conditions better than a dry one.


cheers
dan
 

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www.53catalina.co.uk
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Steve,

On the plus side it wont need overcoating as it's inside the door, and then i was going to Dynomat the inner panel to replace the sound proofing that had parted company and was laying in the bottom of the door (for many years by the look of it.)

Then I intended to finish off with plenty of waxoil.

Dan
 

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I used Por15 recently on the uderside of a wing that was sanded well to bare metal and all the surface rust removed. Plenty of "key" in the metal but I found that the Por could be peeled off in strips. Someone has since told me that it should be applied over REALLY rough surfaces for best adhesion.
 

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I used Por15 recently on the uderside of a wing that was sanded well to bare metal and all the surface rust removed. Plenty of "key" in the metal but I found that the Por could be peeled off in strips. Someone has since told me that it should be applied over REALLY rough surfaces for best adhesion.
If I remember correctly,they recomend their rust killer/etch solution on bare metal prior to coating with por 15 as it gives a better key.
 

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If its a bare metal you use metal ready . Its puts a zinc phosphate coating on it. But seeing as though your painting over rust inside a door you will be ok and it does dry solid. What ive done in the past is use por15 then overcoat with dinitrol 3125 . Be warned though wear gloves it took about 2weeks to get it off my hands and face. Also when pouring out the tin clean the lid. I didnt first time round and could not open the tin next day. Had to cut it open. Its drys that hard
 

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Be warned though wear gloves it took about 2weeks to get it off my hands and face.
Your face??? What did you apply it with, your tongue???? :D

I've read mixed results on POR15 on Chevytalk. Seems to be its good for heavily rusted metal, but lacks adhesion on lightly rusted metal.

Personnally I'd use the Bilt-Hamber De-Ox gel if theres enough access inside the door. I used this on my Impala and it genuinely does leave the metal sand-blast clean.
 

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www.53catalina.co.uk
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If its a bare metal you use metal ready . Its puts a zinc phosphate coating on it. But seeing as though your painting over rust inside a door you will be ok and it does dry solid. What ive done in the past is use por15 then overcoat with dinitrol 3125 . Be warned though wear gloves it took about 2weeks to get it off my hands and face. Also when pouring out the tin clean the lid. I didnt first time round and could not open the tin next day. Had to cut it open. Its drys that hard
I'm going to try the POR15 as I have some available, and the rust is very dry and well adhered to the metal. I have found any you get on your skin can normally be 'washed' off with with paint thinners as long as it hasnt been allowed to dry.

Access to the panel is quite good as the inside cover plates have gone missing at some stage.

I'll over coat with a rustproofer too.
 

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I just done my truck chassis with POR15, used the under coat for it 1st, goes on well but don't come off ur hands and face for a week, still got some on my hands now!!!

Cheers Rich
 
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