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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made a pencil mark and took photo first. Then I can find back to the exact position of the nut when I reassemble. Then I removed the nut.

The yoke is not possible to pull out by hand. Is an extractor placed as the photo show the correct way to go on, or am i missing something here?



Very happy for quick answers!
 

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Far as I remember that's good ,spray some easing fluid down the splines and tighten up the extractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you very much for your answers.
Now that the yoke is removed, how do I remove the cover/plate that the red arrow points at? I'm afraid of destroying it if I bend in the centre hole with a screwdriver or similar...



Maybe I should make some kind of hook that works like a sliding hammer and "hammer" it out? It is the seal that sits just inside this cover, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know. You're probably right. I'm the novice here!

It's just that the new seal I have doesn't lok like that, and that seal i ordered by listing all numbers on the underside of the diff. But then again, it might fit even if it looks slightly different.

Let's assume this is the seal. Du you have any suggestion to how removing it?
Of course, there is the !"ameerican way": The Dremel tool with a metal cutting blade and split the whole thing i pieces...?
 

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Hi staleg, Kev,

That looks like an XJ6 diff to me. That is the seal and as Kev says prise it off with an old screwdriver, you will destroy it. Replace with new seal.

The nut should be tightened to the correct torque as there should be a collapsable spacer behind the seal, too tight and it will crush this making it useless. Too loose and that's obviously not good.

Not sure of the correct tightness at this stage, could check it out tomorrow for you if you wish.

Cheers,
Mike C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To remove the old seal I made a small change to my extraxctor to be able to fasten it inside the hole in the middle of the seal:



Then removing the seal was easy.

How it looks with the seal removed:



To enter the new seal correctly, I used a piece of wood with a hole slightly larger than the rubber seal and a metal plate with a hole big enough for the pinion bolt:



I entered the seal, put the piece of wood over it, placed the metal plate over the wood with the pinion bolt sticking thru, screwed the nut on the bolt and tightened enough to make the seal enter. This wasn't steady enough to put the seal all the way in, but app half way. The rest i tapped carefully in with a hammer on a 3" exhaist pipe that fit 100% to the flange on the seal. I tapped carefully until the change of sound told me the seal was in place (sorry for my poor language):



To avoid destroying the collapsible bushing I used the photo I took of the nut and bolt before I disassembled the pinion, and compared to how it looked after the assembling. Notice the marks on the bolt and the nut and the two visible threads outside the nut:



I also added blue loctite because the nut did't sit that hard when it was at the correct position.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you believe it. That f*** thing leaks again! In the centre of the pinion pass the large nut & washer!
Does that mean I must tighten up more? Doesn't I destroy the chrushable sleeve then? A quarter to a half turn maybe?

#¤%&/()!!!! - But I guess this is what it's about when building a hotrod from old car parts...
 

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It normally means one of two thing.Fisrt one is that when you fitted the new seal the inner spring that pulls the rubber around the yoke has popped out, or you've fitted it slightly askew ( polite word for pissed). Or thirdly ( yeah, I know ) the yoke itself is marked ,scored or worn undersize .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will check out those alternatives tonight.

Suppose both the seal and yoke are ok, can a too loose fitted yoke nut cause a leak too?
 

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It shouldn't do, the idea is that the inner part of the rubber seal grips the tub on the yoke just enough to prevent a leak. The yoke tube is a ( or should be ) a constant size all the way down so where the seal fits shouldn't make any difference.
 

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o ring

Hi it seems that the oil is coming up the splines on the pinion there is a way of stopping this by putting a o ring on the pinion before you put the pinion flange on and this may stop the oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The oil coming out by the splines will not be stopped by a o-ring around the yoke flang as the oil going this way passes inside the yoke flang.

Ed at Ward Engineering recommended some heat and oil resistant silicone sealer under the centre washer & nut.

I did this last night, but haven't filled the oil yet, as I want the silicone to harden first.
 

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To remove the old seal I made a small change to my extraxctor to be able to fasten it inside the hole in the middle of the seal:



Then removing the seal was easy.

How it looks with the seal removed:



To enter the new seal correctly, I used a piece of wood with a hole slightly larger than the rubber seal and a metal plate with a hole big enough for the pinion bolt:



I entered the seal, put the piece of wood over it, placed the metal plate over the wood with the pinion bolt sticking thru, screwed the nut on the bolt and tightened enough to make the seal enter. This wasn't steady enough to put the seal all the way in, but app half way. The rest i tapped carefully in with a hammer on a 3" exhaist pipe that fit 100% to the flange on the seal. I tapped carefully until the change of sound told me the seal was in place (sorry for my poor language):



To avoid destroying the collapsible bushing I used the photo I took of the nut and bolt before I disassembled the pinion, and compared to how it looked after the assembling. Notice the marks on the bolt and the nut and the two visible threads outside the nut:



I also added blue loctite because the nut did't sit that hard when it was at the correct position.

So did you back the nut off to line up the marks? when you say the nut didnt sit hard when it was in the correct position are you refering to the marks you made? Because if its leaking around the nut (it didnt before cus its dry an rusty in there) the nut isnt tight enough. What did you torque it to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It ain't any torque number on this nut because of the collapsible spacer (according to Ed at Ward Engineering) and that's probably the reason for the leak.
What I actually have done is a shortcut by replacing the rubber seal without replacing the collapsible seal in the same operation. Then I run into problems like this.
 

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Thats short cuts for you, Often takes longer to complete cus you got to do it twice. Been there don that.
Have you tryed nipping it up just past snug if you know what I meen see if it stops leeking? worth a go.
 
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