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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone any experience of running a rover v8 dry (as in no water ) in drag racing , any advice ??
 

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Official Drag Addict....
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dont bother fitting a rad..

Sid.
 

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richard rawlplug
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block off the water outlets,fill with water,warm...note warm the engine,then run it...shut it off after the run and leave to cool..worked on my rover...

realistically put a small rad on it with a fan,even running on alky we did it on the big block...
 

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Would not be the best idea in the world, all alloy block and heads, sensitive to thermal changes, designed for road use and to have a full cooling system controlled by a thermostat. Overheating especially in this engine, can result in Major damage, cracked heads untold damage to the block including cylinder liners, the list go's on and on, in a sentence the Rover v8 is not designed to run without the full compliment of coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks allready guys , i thought it might be a bit dodgy being ally etc .
Maybe shopping for a very small rad then , more clutter !

Cheers ,

Neil
 

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richard rawlplug
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our rad neil...
 

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Surely this all depends on how long you intend to run it for..?
I have no experience of running a rover for racing, but in real terms,it surely depends on whether its a 'real' race car...
If its only going to be lit for a burnout, staging and the run, then you have control over the time and can run it at the optimum temp without water and a rad coming into it ?
Shoot me down if I'm wrong, but thats how we do it in fuel....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·


our rad neil...
Yey liam , i studied that foto before lookin at yer calipers and noticed that rad , all well and good you lot with that many horses can afford to carry that water , guess i'll be on a diet soon then !!
Seriously though thanks , am gonna err on the safer side for now and go water cooled , later who knows ?

Cheers ,

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Surely this all depends on how long you intend to run it for..?
I have no experience of running a rover for racing, but in real terms,it surely depends on whether its a 'real' race car...
If its only going to be lit for a burnout, staging and the run, then you have control over the time and can run it at the optimum temp without water and a rad coming into it ?
Shoot me down if I'm wrong, but thats how we do it in fuel....
Wouldn't dream of shooting you down and yes tis a "real" racecar as in 'light it, burnout, wait for other , stage n run " thanks for getting involved , its my first altered but i thought i wouldn't need all that clutter and extra weight ( water !! ).

I know you do that bud thats why i asked the question , where do you take your temperature readings from ? And what temp will it be without water ? Or is it just a big guess ? Am just concerned with it being ally , does it not expand quicker than an iron block ? Will that be a problem ?
Thought there would be more people out there with experience of this with rV8's , still time yet as this is a new thread .
 

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richard rawlplug
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Was it a lot of hard work to get a Red Anderson connector to work with a Grey Anderson connector??
no,they fit......and by the way one is orange....
 

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Wouldn't dream of shooting you down and yes tis a "real" racecar as in 'light it, burnout, wait for other , stage n run " thanks for getting involved , its my first altered but i thought i wouldn't need all that clutter and extra weight ( water !! ).

I know you do that bud thats why i asked the question , where do you take your temperature readings from ? And what temp will it be without water ? Or is it just a big guess ? Am just concerned with it being ally , does it not expand quicker than an iron block ? Will that be a problem ?
Thought there would be more people out there with experience of this with rV8's , still time yet as this is a new thread .
so I have run a Rover with and without a rad in my slingshot. Bottomline you need water. I'm assuming you're running petrol and not alky. It's OK for those running alky because at idle it's almost self cooling. Petrol burns hotter and therfore needs more heat dissipation. Run the rover dry or without the pump on and you'll get hot quick. If you're new to drag racing then you maybe don't know but occasionally there a bit of fannying about on the startline either mopping up fluid or waiting for cars to exit the shutdown. Get caught out with too much temp in the motor or shutdown and you're screwed. If you're actually want to drive the thing more than three runs a day you need a rad. Without it, you'll create hot spots in the head and get all manner of shit with pre-detonation, great for backfiring through the carb. The mass of water isn't that heavy so you'd be saving .000's rather than tenths of a second not running it.

Get a decent ally rad, Dean from TeamTwisted is selling one on WB website, sit it upright or lay it down flat, use an expansion tank and a decent fan properly shrouded. With that set up you'll run all day 8-10 runs track time permitting, drive to the fire up and back down the return. Don't get it hotter than 212F and you'll be fine. you will also want to look at locking out your distibutor advance. Doing this puts all the heat energy into the piston crown, bore and oil and not just the head and coolant. Google locking a dizzy, it's essentially removing all advance curve mechanism and timing it at total advance. If for whatever reason you want to run it dry, then you're better of running alky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so I have run a Rover with and without a rad in my slingshot. Bottomline you need water. I'm assuming you're running petrol and not alky. It's OK for those running alky because at idle it's almost self cooling. Petrol burns hotter and therfore needs more heat dissipation. Run the rover dry or without the pump on and you'll get hot quick. If you're new to drag racing then you maybe don't know but occasionally there a bit of fannying about on the startline either mopping up fluid or waiting for cars to exit the shutdown. Get caught out with too much temp in the motor or shutdown and you're screwed. If you're actually want to drive the thing more than three runs a day you need a rad. Without it, you'll create hot spots in the head and get all manner of shit with pre-detonation, great for backfiring through the carb. The mass of water isn't that heavy so you'd be saving .000's rather than tenths of a second not running it.

Get a decent ally rad, Dean from TeamTwisted is selling one on WB website, sit it upright or lay it down flat, use an expansion tank and a decent fan properly shrouded. With that set up you'll run all day 8-10 runs track time permitting, drive to the fire up and back down the return. Don't get it hotter than 212F and you'll be fine. you will also want to look at locking out your distibutor advance. Doing this puts all the heat energy into the piston crown, bore and oil and not just the head and coolant. Google locking a dizzy, it's essentially removing all advance curve mechanism and timing it at total advance. If for whatever reason you want to run it dry, then you're better of running alky.
Thanks for all the above , not entirely new to this but like u say can't allways account for startline antics etc.
Will take all advice on board bud, am in touch with Dean and hopefully taking the "belle" off his hands soon and with a bit of luck she be up and ready again in no time , allbeit running a little slower mebe .
Can't tell u enough how thankful i am for all your advice etc.

Cheers ,

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Run a Oil Temp gauge. If you run with or without water , the Oil temp is more important.
Thanks Wayne , taking it all on board bud , said i wasn't goin to rush into this but things are coming together niceley, was only gonna do RWYB's this year but .................

Cheers ,

Neil
 

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Thanks for all the above , not entirely new to this but like u say can't allways account for startline antics etc.
Will take all advice on board bud, am in touch with Dean and hopefully taking the "belle" off his hands soon and with a bit of luck she be up and ready again in no time , allbeit running a little slower mebe .
Can't tell u enough how thankful i am for all your advice etc.

Cheers ,

Neil
good to hear you're buying the Belle, It's a good start for somebody
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for your input phil , taking it all on board , but have decided to go water cooled for now .
I remember you racing years back , are you still involved ?
Have seen a few familiar faces over the years while spectating , can never put names to them though , it was easy in the pits or fire up road , you just knew who was who. Anyway i'm digressing.
Thanks again,

Neil
 
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